Torque Converter

[Autobanaurora]

Why does it cost $900 labor to pull tranny and replace converter and sensor? My check engine light came on and now they want to replace my trans. (105 K) Car runs and drives great but the dealer say's "well your torque converter is not always locking up so that's why you are receiving a check engine light." They say "go ahead and replace the trans so you don't have to go back." A sensor is sending a signal that something didn't work, funny I can't tell the difference. With the light coming on I can't get emissioned. Anybody have this problem? Why replace a trans if you don't need one and why do they have to pull the motor and trans to replace a sensor?

Any help would be appreciated otherwise I'm may clear the code and trade it for a new Goat.

[GTP Dad]

Take the car to a transmission shop or another dealer to get another opinion. If it is not locking up it could be a solenoid problem that is causing the whole issue and it does not cost $900 to repair that. By the way torque convertors rarely go bad in 100K miles although it can happen. My guess would be the solenoid.

[rmcilvaine]

I have the same problem. The check engine light doesn't come on until the car tries to engage the torque converter lock up, about 45 mph. I've made it through Ohio E-check by shutting off the car before I pull into the e-check station.

It hasn't seemed to really hurt performance too much, but it did effect the cruse control. It doesn't work now either.

[Autobanaurora]

Well guess what, I found out the converter was fine using the Gen 2 system from a good ole boy dragracer. Come to find out, everything works. One exception, I had a spark plug missfire on number 6 at crusing speed that the computer did NOT detect. In turn, this caused the torque converter to go into the off position or not fully engage therefore service engine soon light with trans code.

I can't believe the dealer and computer missed this. Changed plugs and trans fluid and filters, dropped in a can of Prolong trans treatment, light stayed on for 20 miles then went off. Went on vacation over the weekend, drove 1000+ miles and the check engine light never came back on. Car runs and drives like a dream.

Best advice, take the car to a trans specialist, the dealership doesn't have a clue, and if you haven't changed the plugs at 100K, do it before you get the same condition, the computer will not always detect a missfire.