brakes on 99 windstar

[islandguy1969]

Has Anyone Here Ever Did A Complete Flush On Their Windstar Brake System? I Have Been Having Ongoing Problems With Mine (mushy Pedal, Squealing, Even Though The Pads And Rotors Are Brand New, Also Brake Fluid In Resevoir Is Brown() Any Info On Doing A Flush And How I Would Go About It Would Be Helpful, Thanks.

[CoachKarl]

Go to a junkyard and find a Master Cyl cap just like yours. Drill a hole through it. Jam in a ball point pen cyl. to it. Attach a hose to the pen, funnel to the other end, then invert a 1 qt container of DOT 3 (or 4) into the funnel. This is a brake fluid IV.

Karl.

[CoachKarl]

Sorry, accidently posted before I finished explaining.

Then add fluid at the funnel, while you work the bleed screw at each brake. This is how my mechanic friend did mine. He brought over, and we used the rig I described above, though, it may be overkill. I know I easily add DOT 3 fluid into the master cyl resevoir from a 12 oz can, even with the plastic part of the hood still on the car.

[busboy4]

Hi
I have used a hand vacuum pump before: I over-fill the reservoir, put the hose on the bleed screw, open it and "pull" fluid through to each brake. A second person is a good idea so they can refill the reservoir each time. I have bled calipers, wheel cylinders etc. that way too, but for a "real" bleed I still prefer the two person method - one on the brake, one at the bleed screw i.e. I just changed the wheel cylinders on my van. I used the vacuum pump to bleed them, but was not all that thrilled with the feel. I re-bled them with my son on the brake pedal using the old tube into the half filled jar routine. Could have been my imagination but I thought the brake feel improved over the vacuum only method.
Hope that helps

[12Ounce]

I have read warnings somewhere on allowing air bubbles to inter the ABS/Trac module under the floorpan, so I use the following:

1. Remove cowling (refer to Haynes 11.28)

2. Remove, empty, clean fluid reservoir. Make it spotless. Do not move brake pedal during this period.

3. Re-install reservoir. Refill with fresh fluid. (I use the Valvoline synthetic stuff). (The master cylinder has remained primed.)

. Alternative to #2 and #3: Suck reservoir empty while still mounted on master cylinder. Muck out using pipe cleaners and swabs. Refill with fresh fluid.

4. With a helper, pump pedal and bleed at each wheel cylinder .... never letting the reservoir go empty. Continue until assured the system is full of fresh fluid.

[islandguy1969]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I have read warnings somewhere on allowing air bubbles to inter the ABS/Trac module under the floorpan, so I use the following:

1. Remove cowling (refer to Haynes 11.28)

2. Remove, empty, clean fluid reservoir. Make it spotless. Do not move brake pedal during this period.

3. Re-install reservoir. Refill with fresh fluid. (I use the Valvoline synthetic stuff). (The master cylinder has remained primed.)

. Alternative to #2 and #3: Suck reservoir empty while still mounted on master cylinder. Muck out using pipe cleaners and swabs. Refill with fresh fluid.

4. With a helper, pump pedal and bleed at each wheel cylinder .... never letting the reservoir go empty. Continue until assured the system is full of fresh fluid.

coachkarl, busboy, 12ounce
u guys have given me a real good triple threat of info, thank u all,
i feel confident to tackle this project now.
islandguy

[CoachKarl]

This "trac module", is it the same gismo that DRW is trying to track down under his drivers seat in the neighboring thread?

[DRW1000]

Yes and I am trying to figure out what its function is. I though the ABS was controlled from near the master cylinder but apparently this module controls the pumping action (???).

I wish I knew what the dangers of the air bubbles in this module are

[12Ounce]

I have read somewhere .... that it is double-dog-difficult to fill without entraining air.

However, you can read just about anything.

Before having known about this risk ... I replaced the solenoid controller atop the hydraulic body ... did this was because of a malfunction code. Did an ordinary filling and bleeding after the replacement and everything has been OK eversince.

Beginner's luck I suspose.

[wiswind]

ABS module is under the battery....kinda forward of it...on my '96. If you look down between the front of the battery....and behind the driver's side headlight......you will see it. All the brake lines connect to it.....and this is where the "pulsing" action comes from. I have read that one does NOT want to get contaminates into the ABS module....which is why I prefer bleeding the brakes at each wheel..(as most of the crud develops at the wheels).....for a brake fluid flush....and when doing a brake job.

The instructions for replacing the disk brake pads tell you to push the cylinder in...forcing the fluid back up toward the master cylinder......however....on the way to the master cylinder is the ABS module.

I had a problem bleeding at one of the calipers with my hand pump. What I did then was pump up some vaccum, push on the brake pedal, and then pump some more vaccum.....and close the bleeder screw.

Also......I maintain vaccum on the pump.....while I close the bleeder screw whenever I use the vaccum pump to bleed the brakes. This helps a LOT to avoid getting air into the braking system...as it is much lower pressure outside the screw....until it is closed. This requires using a nice thin wrench for opening and closing the bleeder screw...so that you have room to work the wrench while still having the pump fitting firmly on the bleeder screw.

Another thing.... Once you open a bottle of brake fluid.....it is subject to take on moisture.....which will deteriate the brake fluid. So I use ONLY fresh (new) brake fluid from a SEALED container. A partially full container.....no matter how tight you put the lid back on.....should not be kept around for long.