model master metalizer

[speedphreak]

Just wondering what to use for primer. And after you apply the sealer, does that act as a clear ...and thats what you buff with a soft cloth? Thanks in advance! I know sounds like stupid questions, but I have seemed to start at square one with this modeling addiction of mine.

-Chris

[drnitrus]

Im gonna jump on this bandwagon cause I need a bit of schooling on the metalizers before I start using them too.

[Vric]

As primer, you can use Tamiya Gloss Black. of just simple gray primer.

For buffering, you can use anything. Soft cloth, kleenex, Q-Tips.

You apply the sealer after buffering and it act as a sealer, not a clear coat (it's a bit more dull. Maybe a Semi-Gloss finish)

[proosen]

You don't need a primer for the paint's sake just if it's irregularities on the surface. Just spray on the metalizer and let it dry and then buff it with soft cloth. The sealer knocks some of the shine away from the metalizer so it's better off without it. The drawback is that it's a bit soft and sensitive. Don't touch it more than you absolutely need or it'll rub off.

Niclas

[Veyron]

You don't need primer with metalizer, and I never use the sealer on it, I just carefully handle the parts after spraying them.

I use an old tee shirt, paper towels or Q-tip's to polish it.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by Veyron

You don't need primer with metalizer, and I never use the sealer on it, I just carefully handle the parts after spraying them.

I use an old tee shirt, paper towels or Q-tip's to polish it.

Primer isn't needed because the MM metalizer paint won't attack the plastic and it adheres quite well if the part is clean. Carefully remove mold lines and sprue cuts w/fine sandpaper or polishing sticks and it's ready for metalizer.

Primer just hides the fine engraved detail on the smaller parts.

Aside from bodies, the only parts that I ever prime are seats/interiors if I have to paint them a light color over dark plastic, if there are two different colors of plastic to paint over, or if the color I'm spraying has to match the exterior color.

The sealer kills the polished effect from the buffing metalizers .

Just airbrush a few parts w/metalizer and see how easy it is to work with and how nice the finish is whether it's a buffing or non-buffing variety. It covers very well and very quickly. You'll spend more time cleaning the airbrush than spraying the paint.

[proosen]

The sealer is really good as a clearcoat, I've used it with great succes on some of my cars. Dries fast and polishes out really well!

Niclas

Humbrol gloss black and MM-metalizer sealer on top, worked like a charm!

[cfcrules]

Do you know where I can get it in the UK?

[nis.k.a.]

Originally Posted by speedphreak

Just wondering what to use for primer. And after you apply the sealer, does that act as a clear ...and thats what you buff with a soft cloth? Thanks in advance! I know sounds like stupid questions, but I have seemed to start at square one with this modeling addiction of mine.

-Chris

No. You buff the actual Metalizer paint after one hour of drying. I like to leave it longer. I found that Aluminum is the most sensitive to buffing. It will come off quite easily if buffed too hard and/or long periods of time.

The clear coat is just that but as mentioned it takes away the sheen of the Metalizer after buffing so I really see no point in using it as a sealer.

[speedphreak]

Hey guys, thanks for the generous feedback...im gonna give my metalizer the ole college try!

-Chris