Timing Belt Replacement

[ViciousLoki]

Hi,
I own a 1993 Mazda 626 and she's on her last life. She has 179,800 miles and we're getting ready to replace the timing belt yet again. I was wondering if anyone has done this before? I mainly want to know if pulling the motor is necessary to change the timing belt? Thanks.

-Loki

[RicW]

Loki
Just completed the deal on my 1988 Ford Telstar AKA Mazda 626.
There are some easy ways to do the belt but you dont need to go into major spasm about it.
Key points are :-
1. Take careful note to get the No1 piston to the top dead centre of the firing stroke - use the crankshaft marker to help. Take out the spark plug - (at the belt-end of the motor) and when you think its OK check with a large screwdriver that the piston is at the top.
2 Note that the camshaft lug (which holds the cam pulley in place) should point downwards for the timing notch on the cam pulley.
3 There are 2 notches on the crankshaft timing belt pulley - make sure you line up the correct one - I stuffed it and had to do it again.

Jack the front RHS of the car - remove the wheel and use some solid bricks etc as well as the jack to hold everything securely. Dont take chances - they can drop fast and break or kill you!
Remove the plastic splash guard at the base of the chassis (6X10mm bolts).
Position the crankshaft pulley - check top dead centre for No1 piston.
Remove the six screws retaining the crank-pulley - 10mm - use a long extension + another + a rightangle bar - setup anticlockwise and give the bar a sharp whack with a heavy screwdriver to break the seal for each screw (6 off). Remove the pulley and the dished washer behind - note the washer curves outwards at the outside - it is the retainer for the Timing belt. Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the lower plastic timing cover while there - need a real short ratchet and mini socket for this.
Remove the top plastic timing cover (4 bolts).
Use a 17mm socket and a bar and the screwdriver whacker - break the seal on the top cam sprocket - line everything up to the notched grooves at the inside edge at the top and crankshaft. Note the arrow on the No "1" (or "A") should line up on the sprocket to a small timing arrow on the aluminium back plate and the notch at the crank sprocket lines up with a small protrubance. Unscrew the cam sproket - noting that the cam lug is what locates and positions the whole deal at that end.
Undo the bolt (14mm) just until the left hand idler tensioner is moveable. Push aginst the spring pressure to move it all the way to the left (about 2.5CM) and tighten it in place to remove tension on the Timing belt. Remove the cam sprocket - easing it out of the grooves. Take out the old timing belt. Clean out the broken lugs of rubber at the crank end if you havent done it already. Now the fun bit - line up the crankshaft (23mm socket on the long bar+bar+angle socket bar to the notch and lug above the crank sprocket. Position the belt over everything using the RHS fixed tensioner (if you have one- 12 valve model) and then place the cam sprocket into the belt - fit it carefully so the marks line up with the cam-lug facing down (it should not have moved too much). When it all lines up top and bottom (several tries usually) ensureing the cam sprocket is lined up to the arrow on itself and the case - then bolt up the cam sprocket. Rotate twice clockwise to get it all back to top dead centre each time. Check timing marks again - repeat until OK. One notch out of place is too much! When done - Fit the dished bottom washer on the crankshaft over the timing belt sprocket - check the belt is flush with the sprocket before fitting. Fit the lower cover 2 bolts - dont overtighten. Fit the crank pulley with the alternator and air con / power steering belts. Check everything is fastened and start the engine. If it doesnt start you have mispositioned the top sprocket cam-timing and must redo until correct. Best to get it right the first time - use whiteout to mark as you disassemble the stuff - remember the crank has two positions each is notched and it can be 180' out of position - yeah! I managed to do it!
Hope all goes well.
Skype me on "denartrw" if you need to talk it through (see Skype.com)
Regards from Oz
RicW
PS Replace the No1 Spark plug!

[kjbuente]

Could not say that better myself! Also, is it possible you can copy your owners manul for me? When I bought mine, it did not come with a copy and I'm not really wanting to buy a new one off the internet.