99 XLS Brake Problem

[jackfoxx]

I had to replace the front rotors this weekend. I put on new Raybestos rotors, pads, wheel bearings. After I put it all together, the front right had an annoying sound coming from it when driving. It almost sounded like the rotor wasnt true, but I mic'd it in about 10 spots all around and it was within .002. I then noticed that the right front caliper was tight after applying the brakes. It seemed that the piston was not releasing completely once you let off the pedal. So I replaced the caliper. Same problem still exists. Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks

Jack

[exploded99]

Maybe- kind of sonds like the abs is not releasing the right front caliper like it should. Found the following:

The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) operates as follows:


--When the brakes are applied, fluid is forced from the brake master cylinder outlet ports to the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) inlet ports. This pressure is transmitted through three normally open solenoid valves contained inside the HCU through the outlet ports of the HCU to each wheel.
--If the anti-lock brake control module senses a wheel is about to lock, based on anti-lock brake sensor data, it closes the nominally open solenoid valve for that circuit. This prevents any more fluid from entering that circuit.
--The anti-lock brake control module then looks at the anti-lock brake sensor signal from the affected wheel(s) again.
--If that wheel(s) is still decelerating, it opens the closed solenoid valve for that circuit to further reduce hydraulic pressure trapped in the line.
Once the affected wheel comes back up to speed, the anti-lock brake control module returns the solenoid valves to their normal condition allowing fluid flow to the affected brake.
--The anti-lock brake control module monitors the electromechanical components of the system.
--A malfunction in the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains.
--Malfunctions are indicated by the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
--The anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is fumed to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will carry out a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
--During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
--Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
Pedal pulsation coupled with noise while braking on loose gravel, bumps, wet or snowy roads is normal and indicates correct functioning of the anti-lock brake system


Since you have a NEW caliper, the problem must be upstream somewhere. If it were the master cylinder, it would affect both front brakes -- one brake line out for both front brakes.

So I'm thinking the abs unit might have a sticking solenoid? I would do a full bleed of all four wheels with new fluid. Clean fluid might help whatever is sticking. Use Valvoline synthetic fluid or equivalent. The synthetics just do better in my opinion.

Let us know if that helps--