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#1
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brakes
I own a 1999 Grand Am GT and I just had the front rotors and pads put on the front. Now my brake pedal seems real mushy, In other words, I have alot more pedal than I used to. And I also notice the pedal seems to vibrate (pulsate) when I come to a stop (around 25-30 mph)
If I'm at a stand still and I push the pedal almost all the way to the floor, I can here a creeking in the front calipers. I sent it back to the dealer, they said the driver side rotor was warped from the factory, so they replaced it. But it seems like it's doing it all over again. They also told me, the pads they put on will take time to wear off a slight film that is on the pad itself, then my "mushy pedal" will go away. I can tell something was wrong with the driver side brakes because that side was showing signs of water rust and the passenger side was shiny new. Any possible solutions? 1. brake lanes need bled? 2. Maybe the back rotors and pads need replaced? (could they cause the loss of pedal and the pulsating??) #1 brings me to my next question...could the brake lanes cause an air pocket without anyone messing with the lines? Do air in the lines happen by itself? A few mechanics have told me, my brake pedal issue sounds like the lines need bled or the type of pads that have been placed on my vehicle. Thanks for the help!! A quick reply would be appreciated Gary |
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#2
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Re: brakes
i would bleed the break system. some air might have gotten into the system when they took off the brake fluid cover to check the level of fluid. you use more of your front breaks when stopping so for you to feel a puslation from back breaks are really low. i think the dealer needs to cut that rotor down even if its a new one. that is waht i use to do when i did breaks.
the comment about the dealer replaced the driver side rotor cause it was warped. it sounds to me that the pads never got replaced, therefore the mechanic said it will take time for the pads to smooth out. who should replace the pads when you do rotors. hope this helpd some what |
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#3
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Re: brakes
Like jkp says, bleed the system, remember there is a proportioning valve, so the brakes have to be bled in a certain order.
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#4
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Re: brakes
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#5
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Re: Re: brakes
Wouldn't it be better just to replace the back rotors and pads so they are true with the front?
The dealership replaced the defective rotor within 2 days of service... would that warp the pads in that small amount of time? another thing to consider. my back rotors are rusty around the trim of the rotor, but there is shiny part where the brake pads are pressed against the rotor. and on the driver side, in the middle of the shiny part of the rotor is a rusty ring......right in the center of the rotor. and out of all of this mess would cause loss of brake pedal? Quote:
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#6
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Re: Re: brakes
The dealership said they never messed with the brake line system.
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#7
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Re: Re: Re: brakes
my question is have the back breaks ever been replaced? seeing its a 99 you might want to just for preventive maintain cause they are the origanl ones. a thought to really keep in mind and this goes for everyone, if you have rear disk breaks on any car you want to set your parking break at least once a day like at night when your not use the car. the reason for this is those back calipers are knowen to seize up and when you go and replace the pads you cannot press the piston in. the are expensive to replace. i know on most rear disk brakes the pistion actually spins out, so to push them in you need to turn the pistion.
i take it the car is still under warrent? i am asking cause you might want to take the car some were else for a second opinion about the plusing in your pedal. i still say bleed the system. |
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#8
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Re: Re: Re: Re: brakes
The rear brakes/rotors have been replaced once since I've owned the car in 2002. The rotors look rusty around the ends. Could the rear rotors and pads cause the brake pedal to pulsate and could they be a result of my loss of pedal? The dealership swears they never touched the brake lining system. so there should be no air pocket in the brake lines.
Tell me if this a fair price... (129.00 for front rotors/pads) (177.00 for rear rotors and pads) both prices include labor. Quote:
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#9
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: brakes
the prices you gave with labor are pretty good. i am really suprised at those prices. i have seen higher ones. the rear rotors could be the cause for pulsating but i would get a second opinion on the fronts first and see if the rotors are out of round or have hot spots on them. as for the loss of pedal i still say bleed the fronts. you never had the loss of pedal before you got your fronts done.
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#10
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: brakes
Well, I will replace the rear rotors and pads to see if that helps.
If I have the car turned off and I press the brake pedal, it becomes hard until I can't press it any more. The interesting thing is... before he changed that warped rotor on the driver side... I could press on the brakes while the car was off all day long and the pedal still would not build pressure in the lines. Now ever since he changed that faulty rotor..it seems to build up pressure (with the car off) what would change that? Quote:
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#11
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Re: brakes
That is likely because the pads are finally contacting the rotor with minimal piston travel
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#12
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: brakes
He replaced the rear rotors and pads and the pulsating has gone away.
now the front driver side caliper is creeking and I have a soft pedal. |
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#13
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I do remember something about a recall a couple of years ago concerning the 99 and 00 gt's front brakes, specifically warped rotors from the lug nuts being put on too tight, and i know they had a bad batch of rotors come out of the factory, got a pair of them when helping a friend with his 99. the rotors on my 95 got messed up the same way too. as for the mushy pedal, it might be a bad seal in the caliper. are you loosing any brake fluid?
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#14
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it could also be one of the mounting pins is bound up in the caliper, something simple and quick to fix....
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#15
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Re: brakes
BTW, rust on the outside edges of the rotors is expected. That is where the pads do not contact the rotor surface, and that is also the most exposed area of the rotor, it normal.
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