Car will not start because of security light

[faleigh]

Hello everyone,
Tonight, when leaving my softball game my car would not start. I noticed when I got in the car that the security light was flashing, but thought nothing of it because it has been coming on and off for the past month(with no incident). I disconnected the battery then reconnected, after 20 min, still nothing. I finally gave up and called a ride. After sitting there for about 15 min cussing my P.O.S., I looked at the dash and the light had gone off. This time when I turned the key it started right up. I have read pretty much all of the posts related to the security light and was wondering if anyone could tell me what will actually work. Everyone seems to have an idea, then they try it and it is no help. So I would appreciate it if someone could help me out. Meanwhile I'm going to have a key cut to code, and I will check back. Thanks, Faleigh

[JTrujillo86]

There really is no "trick" that will get your car started when the light is on. I don't know if you've read the thread that I posted about my issue with my security light, but I had the same problem with my 1997 Malibu. It is the ignition that is problem. By design, when the ignition doesn't recognize the key that is being used, it cuts the fuel, not allowing the car to be started. Something is wrong with your ignition which is no letting it recognize the key. Some people say that when the light is flashing you can leave your key in with it turned to the ON position for 15 minutes and it's supposed to work. Others have said it only works sometimes, and still there are those who commented that it hasn't worked at all for them. I would see if the new key works, and if it doesn't then I'd say to just replace the ignition if you're sill having problems getting your car started. The stealership charges something around $300 for parts and labor.

Jeremy

[DANCHAN]

I recently had a problem with GM trying to replace this I had originally had the problem back in October so GM replaced the passlock assembly in the ignition approx 410.00$ canadian just within the last week again it started again I went to GM told them what the problem was with the original work order when I went to pick it up the mechanic said the battery was showing a low voltage and the passlock was bad so he charged my battery and told me it would be fine after 180$ for nothing 2 days later wouldnt you know it security light comes back on big surprise then monday I am ready to drop the car off for the second time and the car stalls security light flashing so after all this im out almost 600$ so beware of the big GM as they obviously like to gain extra money mind you they fixed it the second time for nothing but if it had of been fixed right the first time I wouldnt have been charged for the diognostic just a note the waiting 10 minutes the light goes out on my alero starts again 2002 2 door

[jjgator]

The dealership is not going to want to sell you a key cut to code- they're going to insist on selling you a new ignition switch. Check with a locksmith and they may be able to cut a key to the original code even if it is worn. Save yourself some time and call around 1st.
Keep this in mind, if you put the new key in and the ignition doesn't recognize it because the last key used was worn- it may not start. Once it locks you out- it will not start for 10 minutes no matter what key you use. Walk away for 15 minutes, put the new key in and turn to run(not start) position. Security light should be on. Security light should go off after 5- 10 minutes. Once it goes off turn ignition off and then try to start car. This worked for me and saved me a ton of money. If it does, drive to Home Depot and get another key made from that one and save it for another day. Hope this helps.

[BCCutie27]

Originally Posted by jjgator

The dealership is not going to want to sell you a key cut to code- they're going to insist on selling you a new ignition switch. Check with a locksmith and they may be able to cut a key to the original code even if it is worn. Save yourself some time and call around 1st.
Keep this in mind, if you put the new key in and the ignition doesn't recognize it because the last key used was worn- it may not start. Once it locks you out- it will not start for 10 minutes no matter what key you use. Walk away for 15 minutes, put the new key in and turn to run(not start) position. Security light should be on. Security light should go off after 5- 10 minutes. Once it goes off turn ignition off and then try to start car. This worked for me and saved me a ton of money. If it does, drive to Home Depot and get another key made from that one and save it for another day. Hope this helps.

That has happened to me twice now in the past week with my 2001 Alero. Both times it started right up after leaving the key in for 10 mins and waiting for the security light to stop flashing. Once it stops flashing turn the key off and wait 10 secs then restart the car. It should work right away.I also noticed that it was raining both days it happened to me. I am still trying to get answers as to why this is happening from my dealer. I will let you know if I when I get it figured out.

[raycorri]

Originally Posted by BCCutie27

That has happened to me twice now in the past week with my 2001 Alero. Both times it started right up after leaving the key in for 10 mins and waiting for the security light to stop flashing. Once it stops flashing turn the key off and wait 10 secs then restart the car. It should work right away.I also noticed that it was raining both days it happened to me. I am still trying to get answers as to why this is happening from my dealer. I will let you know if I when I get it figured out.

My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt
and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me

http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com...cal/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/dat...09/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...4&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...7&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.

[docswaim]

Originally Posted by faleigh

Hello everyone,
...I have read pretty much all of the posts related to the security light and was wondering if anyone could tell me what will actually work. Everyone seems to have an idea, then they try it and it is no help. So I would appreciate it if someone could help me out. Thanks, Faleigh

I can't tell you why it may not work for some...it does consistently for me (however, the service manager told me that one of these days the passlock system will go totally bad, and will not longer reset). I speak of the resetting of the passlock system--it is Old's recommended procedure--check your owners manual--look in the index, for "passlock system." The procedure is right in the manual (2001 Alero).

docswaim

[MT-2500]

When it does it or as soon as you can start checking for body codes.
They will led you to the problem.
Post back codes if you get any.
MT