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B-Series/Bravo/Bounty/Drifter Bravo is the Australian vesion, Bounty the New Zealand version and Drifter the South African version.
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  #1  
Old 05-16-2005, 12:44 PM
sparkmn13 sparkmn13 is offline
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Question 89 b2200 problem on startup. HEEELP!

HI to all
I am having a problem with my 1989 b2200 truck when starting it. The problem is after it kicks over the engine wont idle unless I play with the gas pedal. It sometimes will stay running on its own, but even then it goes through a repeating cycle of almost stalling out then revs up higher then starts a repeating cycle of same almost stalls then revs up (is this called lurching?) This cycle continues till it finally stalls out. Just guessing but does this sound like a vacuum problem?
Thats my problem I need help with. If anyone is interested in more info on history of truck and events leading up to this problem I will include the following history:
HISTORY EVENTS:
recent work history up to this point in time. About a month ago truck overheated bad. Sparing the details, after vehicle cooled down I checked oil (just changed day before) it had a weird burnt smell but the worse part was it had water mixed in it.
So I decided to replace the b2200 motor with a used (japanese?) long block b2000 (not sure of year or mileage) motor which I had delivered with new timing belt installed also. For those curious about why I went this route was because it was all I could justify spending. By the way I am not sure if this matters but this is a CA emissions truck. Everything swapped over to the b2000 motor perfectly. Only difference I noticed between the two motors physically was the oil pan was reversed on the b2000. Looking at where it would go I felt although b2000 might bolt up ok with existing pan, it was too close for comfort so I opted for decided to swap over old pan and oil strainer from b2200 motor. Dropped b2000 motor in. hooked up everything using Tagged labels I attached before removing motor and digital photos that were taken as often as I could remember during the removal process. The section I had the most problems with was with the intake manifold section. Keep in mind I am not a mechanic. Only a working guy who really likes this little truck. Its ugly and will never win a race but has always been dependable. Even got me all the way home before quitting on me when I broke it. This is first engine swap I have ever done. Getting back to the subject, Because of all the numerous vacuum hoses and other cables, I only removed what was necessary to detach intake from the old head and just flipped it over (along with mech. fuel pump) and held it in place by the fender wall with some wire to keep it out of the way. I labeled any hose or cable on both ends with tape and matching letters. When hooking them back up I noticed some of the labels were hard to read due to cleaning fluids also cleaned most of my label off too. In particular a couple of vacuum hoses and 1 electrical connector. Although I am pretty sure I figured them out based mostly on process of elimination I am not 100% sure the few in question are correct. In particular I had one electrical wire that looked as if it went to alternator but had same sharpie labeled mark as oil pressure switch. I am confident it goes as labeled due to tiny slot in connector is perfect fit for going over oil pressure switch. But now I only have 2 other connectors left that arent connected to something. There is one connector by starter and oil filter with red wire and green dashes not connected to anything but dont recall it ever was connected before either. Was not labeled. This connector looks like it might fit alternator but no way will it or did it ever reach alternator. Other connector is single wire with label still easily read but isn't for alternator due to connector not a match. The plastic portion of connector looks like tiny u shape with remaining side flat and metal connector inside is female circle shaped. For the life of me I cant find anything this will attach to. Going on I started vehicle up and although it appeared to want to start it seemed like it wasnt getting fuel. I replaced both the mech. fuel pump and fuel filter. That is where I am as of the time of this post. Truck starts but does this weird high rev low rev cycle till it stall out. I tried adjusting the carb. It seems to only slightly alter this loping cycle not change it. Cleaned card with cleaner verified distrib. stuff. plugs are new and gapped correctly. Am getting spark Ok. Doesnt make any missing noises. I am thinking it can only be a limited number of problems. 1- A vacumm leak somewhere or outside possibility vacuum hose mixup. 2 - Something with alternator due to what appears to be a connector on alternator not having anything attached to it. 3 - sensor or carb. related. At present unless one of you guys knows what I should do I am pursuing vaccuum hose theory by verifying with hood diagram and also replacing any suspect hoses. After that the only thing I can think to do is go to junkyard and get lucky and find relatively undisturbed motor to compare my with.
Any help you can give me would be unbelievably appreciated because I just dont know enough about this stuff to figure it out on my own (in this lifetime anyhow) nor do I have alot of money left to throw at it not to mention now on my 9th day of this adventure. Sorry for being so long winded but I wanted to give as much info as I could to help make diagnosis.
Sparkmn13
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Old 05-16-2005, 01:31 PM
89B2200 89B2200 is offline
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If you have access to digital camera, I can probably help.

I bought an 88B2200 with a mazda 626 japanese engine and had to go through the same difficulty only to find out the timing was off. I got it running smooth.

Did you use original intake manifold and carb from your 89B? Let me know and maybe I can help.

Cheers.
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Old 05-16-2005, 02:06 PM
sparkmn13 sparkmn13 is offline
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Re: 89 b2200 problem on startup. HEEELP!

yes I do have access to a digital camera. And yes to your other inquiry. I am using original b2200 intake and carb. Thanks for responding 89b2200. I appreciate any input.
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Old 05-16-2005, 04:17 PM
sparkmn13 sparkmn13 is offline
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update to previous

I went through electrical schematics and found the connector needed for alternator. It was on what looks like a temp sensor right under thermostat house connection. Put it on alternator. Now dont know where female connector to put on whatever it is on thermo housing. Also found vacuum hose not connected and reconnected it. I am starting to think maybe I screwed up doing this myself.
The other things I did like a blind man in the dark since then was disconnect battery cable for about 10 minutes. Reconnected it then put some carb cleaner to the carb. Waited then tried to start. Didnt want nothing to do with it. Acted like it was robbed of getting any fuel and shook like both motor mounts were broke. Shot some starting fluid in for the heck of it. And it started right up. Couldn't keep it running on its own so had someone else start it and took over gas at carb. Tried adjusting what I think is the fuel mixture. Truck no longer blows out black through exhaust at least not noticable. Also noticed high rev then low rev almost stall out cycle is almost gone. Also found that if I held the flapper thing inside carb shut it idled higher but I no longer needed to keep giving it gas and reving it up. I could release it almost all the way open and not stall but all the way open and it dies. Also dont understand why it still seems like no gas going to carb on startup but has no problem once started. I think I hate all cars, trucks, tonka toys and anything else on wheels including wheel chairs. I do appreciate any help you guys give me and promise to not mess with it until someone else has a clue with what to do.
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:00 AM
sparkmn13 sparkmn13 is offline
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thread update

This is an update to my earlier posts regarding 1989 b2200 truck startup problems. Well first off I lied and went ahead and bulled my way through getting this motor working. I went to parts store and purchased new inductive timing gun. Set timing as per underhood specifications. Actually by myself the best I could get it to was just over 7. Hood says Motor runs alot better now.
Unfortunately I still have one problem left and it is with the carb choke mechanism. When starting engine cold I have to manually close choke plate in carb otherwise it seems like it is not getting gas. As engine warms up choke plate slowly starts to open. But it stalls out if left on its own. Truck sounds great if I stand by the motor and help the choke to do its job.
can someone tell me about what choke adjustments I can make if any and where are they located. After looking over choke section of carb. and watching it function I almost get the impression a spring or something to control it with other functions is missing.
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