Warped rotors, anyone tried drilled rotors?

[bowtieboy]

It's probably my own driving/braking style, but after 25/30k miles my rotors get warped and the pulse in the brake pedal drives me bonkers! It's been this way on my 93, my 96, and now on my 02. I do a brake job and the pedal is as smooth as can be for another 25/30k. Has anyone tried (with any success) using drilled or grooved rotors? They're probably close to double the price of OEM rotors (which I normally replace anyway) But I always have plenty of brake pad left, and I figure if they do what they're suppose to do I'll be money and time ahead. More than likely I'll go with a reputable brand (Like Brembo) I'm not into cheap no-name parts. But I'm looking for honest opinions, I know everybody like to talk up the parts they personally use, but good or bad I want to hear it. Thanks

[BlenderWizard]

I would also like to know

[silveradoking]

Brembo or a set of Powerslots are the best thing to get.....they are worth it 100%......I have the powerslots and they are the best....I had horrible problems with my rotors, they just kept on warping, cheap gm crap..... And don't get the drilled rotors, they are very easy to crack on these trucks, get the slotted and they will last you for a very long time.......

[BlenderWizard]

Powerslots seem nice, but $300 to do just the front brakes?!?! I'll have to pass. What happens when it is time to replace them, another $300? People charge too damn much for their stuff...

[jumpingjack66]

I am still using factory front rotors that came with the truck. I am at 70,000 miles i live in the high mountains of west virginia. I have not had a warping problem. So, do you drive with two feet,or drag your brakes? Are you changing the caliper hardware each time you change pads?Here on past vehicles i have had a problem burning the front rotors if i try cuttig them on a brake job. So, asa rule i just change rotors with pad as long as the milage is over 20,000 miles. One of the brake techs here on this forum stressed that these gen three trucks require that you change and or lube the slide hardware because if you dont this will hang up the caliper and cause warpig or over heating. Either way i would say find the cause of your problem first because no matter what you replace them with slotted or drilled your still going to warp the rotors -, only your going to spend alot more money...my two cents...JJ

[bowtieboy]

No, I'm not a two footed driver, and I don't ride or drag the brakes. While I admit I am certantly not a master brake technician, I have had both a friend and my cousin (who both are schooled, ASE certified, and do this for a living) help me on two occasions, with the same results. When I change my brakes, it is because of the pulse in the pedal, and there is usually an honest 50% of the pad left, usually pretty evenly on the both inside and outside pad. I usually buy the best that either Raybestos, Wagner or Bendix has to offer. I always lube the caliper pins and make sure that it can travel freely. I usually buy new rotors, I've had them turned before but have found out that the turned (thinner) rotors will warp even sooner. When I lived on a dirt road for about three years, I really kept an eye on my brakes thinking the extra dirt and abrasives would raise hell on them, but really didn't notice that much of a difference. I do pull a two place snowmobile trailer (2000-2500 lbs tops) 3-4 times a year maybe a thousand miles each trip. But really don't notice too much required extra braking effort, and it is nearly 90% interstate driving. I don't think that matters much with my problem. Thanks for your replies, hope to hear more from people with the same problem and what they've done to try and correct it.

[3wbdriver]

I drove a '72 blazer for 15 years before I got my Silverado last year, and never warped a rotor. I replaced one about 2 years ago, but that was because I had ruined the hub, and the price for a hub with rotor wasn't bad. My wife has managed to warp the rotors on every new car/truck she's driven in the last 15 years (4 different makes). I know they're making rotors thinner now, in the never ending quest for light weight/mileage, so they are probably more heat sensitive. I also know my wife hits the brakes AT the stops. She has no concept of slowing down. I usually start slowing early, and pump mine 3 or 4 times as I'm rolling up to a sign or red light. I honestly believe it's her driving style versus mine, but that's just my opinion. The amount of pad you have left hasn't got anything to do with the warping. It's the heat buildup, and cycling that causes it. You may simply have to change your driving style. Of course, I'm getting to be an old fart, and the excitement of quick stops doesn't do it for me anymore. 15 years of driving that 10 mpg Beast has taught me to drive smooth, and stretch all the gas mileage I can out of what I drive.

[01Blackerado]

Heres the only problem with having cross drilled slot in the rotors... The little holes they drill to release heat, make the rotors that much more weak!! The missing metal serves as a lack of support against those big brakes on our trucks.

[Sivart]

I have the same problem on my Truck. I have 2 sets of rotors and about twice a year I have to change them out and turn the old ones to have them ready for the next rotation in about 4 to 6 months. This is on a 96 Z-71. I never had to even turn the rotors on my 91 model extended cab 4x4 and I owned that truck for 6 years. My dad bought this 96 brand new, and in 2002 he got a new truck and I pruchased his 96. The rotors stayed warped when he was driving it but it didnt bug him like it does me so he never worried about it.