96 with check engine light

01EB5.0 · #1 05-09-2005, 07:15 PM

I just bought a 96 SE with the V-6 abd 5 speed manual. the car has 143,000 miles but the engine is from a 95 that only had 88K, or so says the guy I bought it from. It runs well, but the check engine light is on. The guy said it is intermittant, but it was on the whole time I test drov eit. He cleaims the code is for some park/neutral interlock switch. He also said the car will crank even without the clutch pedel depressed. What should i expect to have to replace on this car to keep it for a while. I've read about water pump, but anything else?

Jason43 · #2 05-10-2005, 06:20 PM

Go to autozone and have them pull the code.

wafrederick · #3 05-12-2005, 07:15 PM

Do not go to AutoZone to get the codes read(really called AutoJunk).Why?,they are not trained in computer work and are 99.9% wrong.They do not use a scan tool,they use a code reader to retieve the codes.Go to a shop that uses a scan tool.For example,one of my father's customers took their car to get the codes read on a 1996 Ford Taurus wagon with a 3.0L engine, vin U.It was a camshaft position sensor code.They said it was just the camshaft position sensor,WRONG!They do not know the synchro tears up the camshaft position and that has to be replaced also(about $147.00-$150.00 from the dealer only),the shaft on the sychro bends up tears up the camshaft position sensor and a special tool has to be used to set that synchro in the right position.There is one reason why there are AutoZone parts stores,Idiots who do not know about their cars.

Jason43 · #4 05-12-2005, 08:22 PM

A code reader is a code reader. As long as it tells you the cel code, it is fine. Its your choice to listen to the Autozone clerks crappy technical advice.

As I said, go to Autozone and have them pull the code. Bring it back here and we can troubleshoot the problem.

01EB5.0 · #5 05-13-2005, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason43

A code reader is a code reader. As long as it tells you the cel code, it is fine. Its your choice to listen to the Autozone clerks crappy technical advice.

As I said, go to Autozone and have them pull the code. Bring it back here and we can troubleshoot the problem.

I get whats being said about auto zone. I have a 2001 Explorer now that has had a check engine light for 30,000 miles. It keeps saying code 401 "Insufficient EGR Flow" Autozone told me I need an EGR valve, but i tested the valve and it is good, so it is most likely something else int he EGR system. At least I have it narrowed down.

As far as the Contour...I take delivery of it Saturday morning, so I will get the codes read and let you guys know.

rksnc · #6 05-17-2005, 04:09 PM

Hay ya on the Explorer with the egr code, when ever you see this code if you change egr valve, DPFE sensor, and in some cases clean egr passages in the intake you will fix the problem. The only thing left after that will be the pipe from exhausr to egr, it has a orifice inside and may get clod up. But most of time sensor and valve solves this.
Code readers and scan tools ,good question, do you want just Generic codes and or dealer codes. They both are important in fixing cars today.

01EB5.0 · #7 05-19-2005, 10:19 PM

Went to autozone with the contour. It had 3 codes. I think the first was a 101 and 103 then a 133. I think thats what she said. Anyway she said the first was because a vaccuum line was dosconnected somewhere, second was for a bad 02 sensor on bank 1, and the third was for a fuel/air mixture fault, but she said that one was a dealer code and would need to go to a dealer to get that one fixed. Question is what vaccuum hose am I looking for?! lol

rksnc · #8 05-20-2005, 11:38 AM

101 & 103 Are dealing with mass air flow meter. 101 means that it failed during test , the volt was not .34-1.96....So it is most likely a bad mass air flow ....This may be the reason for o2 code but then maybe not,,,because it was for the right front O2 and it seems as it should have made both O2 be off not just one.
I would start with mass air first. Then recheck.

01EB5.0 · #9 05-21-2005, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rksnc

101 & 103 Are dealing with mass air flow meter. 101 means that it failed during test , the volt was not .34-1.96....So it is most likely a bad mass air flow ....This may be the reason for o2 code but then maybe not,,,because it was for the right front O2 and it seems as it should have made both O2 be off not just one.
I would start with mass air first. Then recheck.

I had the mass air off th eother day as I was spraying carbon cleaner into the TB while th eengine was running...I also cleaned the mass air the same day. Maybe boing those 2 things threw it off. the check engine light just came back on tongiht after I cleared the codes at auto zone the other day. I shall take it back to autozone and get the code read again.

rksnc · #10 05-21-2005, 11:19 AM

Yoy could but think the mass air will code again. Because of the 101 code. Vacuum line off will not cause that one. It failed that during the test. But would not hurt to try again.

01EB5.0 · #11 05-21-2005, 01:24 PM

Ok, back from autozone. The only code that was in there this time was P133 - he said it means my 02 sensor is going out. He asked if i had a fuel additive in the gas and I actually was juts running fuel injector cleaner this tank, he said that could have caused the light but that the 02 is also probably bad. I'm glad the other 2 codes did not show up...

ALso one other question. one of my CV boots is torn, autozone had a universal replacement called speedi-boot. Has anyone had experiance with these> It had a slit down the side and you just put it around the shaft and put about 2 tiny screws in to hold the slit closed...sound good or should i just wait until the shaft needs replacement?

rksnc · #12 05-21-2005, 04:42 PM

Well without some kind of test meter you can only guess that the O2 is going bad. With a scanner you can see data stream and make better decision about the O2. There can be a few things involved in affecting O2. I have never had gas treatment to ever cause a O2 code. I use it in the shop everyday.
No I would not waste my time with a split boot. You need to have a shop relace the boot before the joint starts to make a clicking sound, when making a sharp turn.

mercy6481 · #13 08-16-2005, 01:49 AM

Well. I have a 98' contour GL and my check engine light was on for the longest time. The auto shop wouldn't pass my smog until the ck engine light was gone. So, I asked my neighbor he said to disconnect the battery for 2hrs + all night if possible and reconnect it. It should reset itself. I was doubtful but it worked and has Never come back on unexpectedly again. Try it... let me know if it works for you.

beyondloadedSE · #14 08-16-2005, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercy6481

Well. I have a 98' contour GL and my check engine light was on for the longest time. The auto shop wouldn't pass my smog until the ck engine light was gone. So, I asked my neighbor he said to disconnect the battery for 2hrs + all night if possible and reconnect it. It should reset itself. I was doubtful but it worked and has Never come back on unexpectedly again. Try it... let me know if it works for you.

actually, it only takes about 20 seconds to clear codes if you disconnect the battery.

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