1995 Lower control arm bushing fiasco...

[rpgmage_86]

Right now, my car is a shame to drive. One of the lower front control arm bushings is split and, as such, makes noise ALL THE TIME. And so, since the Ford dealership likes making people broke, I would like to replace these myself. I realize that this requires some special equipment, but does anyone know exactly what equipment that is? First, do I only need to buy replacement bushings for the control arm and not a new ball joint? I would imagine I'd need them pressed into the control arm which shouldn't be too much trouble. Overall, what would anyone recommend I do exactly? Thanks for anything you all can tell me.

[SVTcobra306]

Replace your control arms with some aftermarket units w/polyurethane bushings in them. Shop the ads in a mustang mag to pick a set...

[rpgmage_86]

Originally Posted by SVTcobra306

Replace your control arms with some aftermarket units w/polyurethane bushings in them. Shop the ads in a mustang mag to pick a set...

I'm not interested in replacing the arms themselves, I just need to replace the bushings.

[silverstangs]

Originally Posted by rpgmage_86

I'm not interested in replacing the arms themselves, I just need to replace the bushings.

Seriously, it's not worth the effort of trying to save those stock arms because those rubber bushings are pressed in there and are not easy to take out. Your probally going to need to replace the bushings on both ends anyways. It would be easier for you to pick up used ones, or go straight to aftermarker versions. .

If your worried about cost, you can go to http://www.partshopper.com
look for the lower control arms from Pro3i. The have a new set for $164.


http://www.partshopper.com/fordmustang/itemdesc.asp?CartId={B9A08F69-6DEA-4E8B-9BEVEREST9A-387AFA345EED}&ic=PRO3%2D23859&eq=&Tp=

[rpgmage_86]

I understand your reasoning there, and I guess it's a possibility. However, I'd still like to replace even the arms myself, and THAT's what I need help with. If i'm not mistaken, I need a spring retainer to keep the suspension spring compressed when you do work on it. If there's anything else I should be wary of if doing it myself, I'd like to know.

[SVTcobra306]

Simply put the car on jackstands, place pressure on the rear diff with a jack, unbolt and remove/replace the uppers. Now get another jack, put a jack under each control arm, unbolt/remove the swaybar, unbolt the axle end of the lower first, then lower the jacks until the springs fall out, then unbolt the frame end of the lowers, replace with new lowers in reverse order.

There are a few little things in between, like switching over the brackets with the park brake cables, but overall it's ridiculously easy.

If you're still set on bushing replacement, I have a set of Energy Suspension bushings for stock Control Arms, minus the upper axle bushings, I'd send you pretty cheap....
The only don't in the whole process is do NOT jack up one side at a time, because you will cause binding and never get the arms in.

[rpgmage_86]

Originally Posted by SVTcobra306

Simply put the car on jackstands, place pressure on the rear diff with a jack, unbolt and remove/replace the uppers. Now get another jack, put a jack under each control arm, unbolt/remove the swaybar, unbolt the axle end of the lower first, then lower the jacks until the springs fall out, then unbolt the frame end of the lowers, replace with new lowers in reverse order.

There are a few little things in between, like switching over the brackets with the park brake cables, but overall it's ridiculously easy.

If you're still set on bushing replacement, I have a set of Energy Suspension bushings for stock Control Arms, minus the upper axle bushings, I'd send you pretty cheap....
The only don't in the whole process is do NOT jack up one side at a time, because you will cause binding and never get the arms in.

Thanks a lot. Though, you do know that I'm talking about the FRONT control arms, not the rear ones. You mentioned the rear diff so I didn't figure that would be needed in replacing front parts. Unless of course I had a front diff But then it wouldn't be a mustang, now would it?

[99DenaliMan]

Just a thought....... But couldn't you just jack up the front of the car, remove the lower control arm nut from the steering hub, (you will need a BFH and a rather large pry bar to break this loose) take the nuts bolting the control arm to the body off and simply take the control arm to your local muffler or Shade Tree Mechanic and have them press the new ones in? Locally it costs about $10 to have them do it. Replacement costs---2 ball joints and 2 cotter pins.. REPLACE the cotter pins......Maybe I'm wrong but that should work?????

Also since you are new to this a few tips I have experienced.
Never back the ball joint nut off to line the cotter pin holes during installation. ALWAYS go forward to the next alignment holes. Also popping the ball joints loose from the hub can be quite a task for the beginner. In my experience (and other's here may have an easier way) the easiest way to get this loose is to go to Menards, in the lawn and garden section they have this HUGE prybar (like 6 feet long) for about $25.00 a great investment for all kinds of automotive projects. After removing the cotterpin and ball joint nut from the ball joint, take the prybar to get downward leverage on the lower control arm, after doing this wack the hell out of the side of the lower control arm until it pops loose. (this may take a while and a lot of beating.)

[rpgmage_86]

Originally Posted by 99DenaliMan

Just a thought....... But couldn't you just jack up the front of the car, remove the lower control arm nut from the steering hub, (you will need a BFH and a rather large pry bar to break this loose) take the nuts bolting the control arm to the body off and simply take the control arm to your local muffler or Shade Tree Mechanic and have them press the new ones in? Locally it costs about $10 to have them do it. Replacement costs---2 ball joints and 2 cotter pins.. REPLACE the cotter pins......Maybe I'm wrong but that should work?????

Also since you are new to this a few tips I have experienced.
Never back the ball joint nut off to line the cotter pin holes during installation. ALWAYS go forward to the next alignment holes. Also popping the ball joints loose from the hub can be quite a task for the beginner. In my experience (and other's here may have an easier way) the easiest way to get this loose is to go to Menards, in the lawn and garden section they have this HUGE prybar (like 6 feet long) for about $25.00 a great investment for all kinds of automotive projects. After removing the cotterpin and ball joint nut from the ball joint, take the prybar to get downward leverage on the lower control arm, after doing this wack the hell out of the side of the lower control arm until it pops loose. (this may take a while and a lot of beating.)

Cool tips. Having someone press the bushings in was what I planned on doing if I got to do it myself. Though, is all that ball joint work required if I only have to remove the control arm, or must it be replaced if I take the thing off. Simply, the ball joint doesn't need replaced, so could I not just leave the ball joint in the arm?

[SVTcobra306]

Oh, the fronts, duhhhh,,,,
Options there are pretty simple. It isn't that hard to get everything apart, and you can get the spring back in without a compressor. Get some poly bushings for it, someone else will have to elaborate, I haven't changed these yet.

PPI sells '04 Cobra lowers for the front that will improve your turning radius, that's one of my next upgrades...

[99DenaliMan]

no, you don't have to replace the joints. But be carefull if your going to reuse the joint not to hammer on the threads when trying to break the joint loose from the hub. When you take the control arms completely off, grab the bolt part of the ball joint. If you can move it with your hand replace it, it's pretty worn. Personally, I'd recommend replacing it, but funds and CONDITION of the joint are both deffiently a huge factor.

Originally Posted by rpgmage_86

Though, is all that ball joint work required if I only have to remove the control arm, or must it be replaced if I take the thing off. Simply, the ball joint doesn't need replaced, so could I not just leave the ball joint in the arm?

What I was referring to in my post was that when you remove the nut, the ball joint sometimes sticks to the hub and if it hasnt been removed in a while can be difficult to unstick.

Also I think cotter pins are about $.05 cents a peice.

[rpgmage_86]

Originally Posted by 99DenaliMan

no, you don't have to replace the joints. But be carefull if your going to reuse the joint not to hammer on the threads when trying to break the joint loose from the hub. When you take the control arms completely off, grab the bolt part of the ball joint. If you can move it with your hand replace it, it's pretty worn. Personally, I'd recommend replacing it, but funds and CONDITION of the joint are both deffiently a huge factor.



What I was referring to in my post was that when you remove the nut, the ball joint sometimes sticks to the hub and if it hasnt been removed in a while can be difficult to unstick.

Also I think cotter pins are about $.05 cents a peice.

Lol, I would hope cotter pins aren't more than a nickle! Anyways, thanks, that just about sums it up, I'd say. I've ordered the bushings, so I guess we'll see what happens.