1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Electric Windows broke

[taubin]

All at once I lost the electric windows and right at the start of summer no less.

If I sit there and repeatedly slam the drivers door it will eventually allow me to work the windows until I exit the driver's door again.

My success rate is to get them working once every 50 slams.

Is it the flex harness between the door and the frame or is it the switch/something inside the door panel.

Where do I start cutting?

thank you!!!!

[fredjacksonsan]

Sounds like it's time for an inside the door mission. Hopefully there's just a loose connection somewhere in the door.

You didn't mention if ALL the windows are affected, or if it's just the driver's window.

[taubin]

Originally Posted by fredjacksonsan

Sounds like it's time for an inside the door mission. Hopefully there's just a loose connection somewhere in the door.

You didn't mention if ALL the windows are affected, or if it's just the driver's window.

all windows are affected.

I checked all fuses inside panel near passenger door. I have checked inside the big fuselink box near battery under hood for moisture. I have removed and cleaned the contacts on all fuses and breakers in the fuse box.

Does anyone know what that big thing is behind the driver's seat shaped like a power amp with all kinds of wires running under it? it is under the rear seat behind driver... does that control alarm or windows?

[fredjacksonsan]

I'm not sure about the box behind the seat. But since it works intermittently when you slam the driver's door, I'd look there first for a problem. Check the wire bundle coming from the body of the Jeep to the door first for any exposed/damaged wires, both @ the door and the body. If ok there, I'd think about taking off the inside cover -edit- (of the door) and looking inside the door to check wiring and connections.

[taubin]

Originally Posted by fredjacksonsan

I'm not sure about the box behind the seat. But since it works intermittently when you slam the driver's door, I'd look there first for a problem. Check the wire bundle coming from the body of the Jeep to the door first for any exposed/damaged wires, both @ the door and the body. If ok there, I'd think about taking off the inside cover and looking inside the door to check wiring and connections.

thank you., I love this truck. 250,000 highway miles on it, paint and interior are still perfect. You need to buy one!

The driver's door wiring connects to the frame via a rubber or plastic flexible tube that is sealed at both ends. I would think I need to cut that open. I wonder if anyone else would say do not do this.

Also if I am to open the door panel i need some pointers, some place on the web. I do not see screws or star bolts as I have in the past on my other vehicles.

I have hacked trucks before, I am good with tools and electronics but I shudder when it comes to pulling apart a nice looking door.

Thank you for your help, you are the only voice I have heard here in 2 months...

If you have any questions about the 1995 just ask. I have replaced the transmission and all things plastic or rubber under the hood. The water pump last week.

[fredjacksonsan]

I'm actually trying to sell my truck right now and will be looking @ a JGC, probably a 2000 model, once it sells. I did take a look at a 96 last week, I like that body style better but the spare takes up a good amount of room in the back.

I've seen the flexible rubber tubing on the doors, you should be able to work it loose on either end to check it. (Somebody installed it @ the factory, so there has to be a way to uninstall it)

No screws or tabs on the door....hmmm...there HAS to be a way to remove the door panel. If you can't find it, get a Haynes manual, or cheat and drop by the dealer and get them to point it out for you (<----worked for me once or twice )

[taubin]

Originally Posted by fredjacksonsan

I'm actually trying to sell my truck right now and will be looking @ a JGC, probably a 2000 model, once it sells. I did take a look at a 96 last week, I like that body style better but the spare takes up a good amount of room in the back.

I've seen the flexible rubber tubing on the doors, you should be able to work it loose on either end to check it. (Somebody installed it @ the factory, so there has to be a way to uninstall it)

No screws or tabs on the door....hmmm...there HAS to be a way to remove the door panel. If you can't find it, get a Haynes manual, or cheat and drop by the dealer and get them to point it out for you (<----worked for me once or twice )

well the 95 does have the electronic transmission with the solenoids and all that, so that's why I went for the older model.. just as good as the 96 and I found it for an average of $2500 less.

Repairs to date since I bought truck two years ago: $3000 and most of that was in transmission repair, all my fault... I took it offroad for probably the first time in its life and hit I few bumps, enough to make some solenoids and relays stick is all that happened. I recommened this to all people when test driving a used truck 8-)

[fredjacksonsan]

Originally Posted by taubin

well the 95 does have the electronic transmission with the solenoids and all that, so that's why I went for the older model.. just as good as the 96 and I found it for an average of $2500 less.

Repairs to date since I bought truck two years ago: $3000 and most of that was in transmission repair, all my fault... I took it offroad for probably the first time in its life and hit I few bumps, enough to make some solenoids and relays stick is all that happened. I recommened this to all people when test driving a used truck 8-)

Hey, $3000 in the last two years is only $125 a month, beats the he\\ out of a big fat car payment! If you were offroad, bully for you! 95% of SUV's stay on-road their entire lives.

[drummerb86]

hey i have a '97 JGC 2wd and it goes off roading alot. Just cant do it while its raining but as long as you hit the mud puddles hard it alot of fun.

[tracyace]

It definitely sounds like it's in the wire bundle inside the rubber hose-type thing connecting the door to the body of the car. That same thing happened to me a few years ago and a mechanic actually showed me the broken wire. It may be obvious where the broken wire is once you pull back the rubber cover. As long as the wires are touching, my windows open.

[taubin]

Originally Posted by tracyace

It definitely sound like it's in the wire bundle inside the rubber hose-type thing connecting the door to the body of the car. That same thing happened to me a few years ago and a mechanic actually showed me the broken wire. It may be obvious where the broken wire is once you pull back the rubber cover. As long as the wires are touching, my windows open.

yup, that is what it was. local garage fixed 3 (three!) broken wires inside the rubber hose thing in the door. All total $45.
I have electric windows, door locks, and I can unlock the driver's door without setting off the alarm. (I used to have to unlock the tailgate first)

[travis873o]

on my 96 grand cherokee, the rear right window gets off track when i roll it down. it works fine electrically, but when i start to roll it down it tilts off track. can anyone help me?

[texian]

Steiger Performance (NY) makes a kit with excellent directions to replace the worn plastic gears on the regulator with metal parts for about $45 including shipping. see http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp12001.html. not a real simple swap but do-able. hope it helps
Regards
texian