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Old 05-01-2005, 04:04 PM
Jimmy's girl Jimmy's girl is offline
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Console brake light problem

I own a 89 s15 2-door jimmy. My main problem is that the emergency brake indicator on the console is constantly on. When I engage the e-brake via the pedal, the light gets brighter, and when released, it is dimmer but still lit up.

My brakes have been "grabbing" for awhile now. Is this related?

I'm a girl that loves her Jimmy. Any ideas?
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:29 AM
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More than likely the ebrake switch is pooched. Replace it... It sounds like the internals aren't working and allowing some electrical current through at a higher resistance. This causes it to be lit but dim.
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Old 05-02-2005, 10:21 PM
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Re: Console brake light problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlith
More than likely the ebrake switch is pooched. Replace it... It sounds like the internals aren't working and allowing some electrical current through at a higher resistance. This causes it to be lit but dim.

Thanks for the help. Can you explain where the ebrake switch is? is it under the dash?
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:53 AM
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Re: Console brake light problem

Stick your head under the dash, you will see it at the top of the ebrake itself.
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Old 05-03-2005, 04:52 AM
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You also can have a ABS problem. The brake light is used for informing you of a ABS problem too on RWAL systems. Unplug your ABS module, if the light is now off, you have a ABS problem.
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:40 PM
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Since the lamp gets brighter and dimmer it's possible it's being powered from two different sources. Some of the sources could be brake fluid level, Anti Lock, shorted wire, ect.
The best thing to do is go out and buy the Haynes Manual for your car, $20 and worth every penny. I think you want:
Haynes, 24070 - S-10 & GMC S-15 Pick-ups '82 thru '94 Models covered: All Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15 and Sonoma pick-ups '82 thru '93, S-10 Blazer & S-15 Jimmy '83 thru '94, Olds Bravada '91 thru '94.
Also see if you can find a code reader tool, they look like little pickel forks with tines that fit into the diagnostic plug under the dash below the steering wheel. Shorting A-B gives engine computer codes, A-H (I think) gives ABS codes ect. The tool has tines spaced for each of the various diagnostic plug outputs, the cost should be less than 5 bucks.
I had the same problem and it was an ABS wheel speed sensor. The jacket on the wire had torn and allowed water to get into the sensor, The ABS Computer couldn't get an input from one wheel so disconnected itself and lit the light. The Brake Light is like the Check Engine Light for the ABS. When you short out A-H, the Brake Light will blink out the code, blink,blink, - delay - blink, blink, blink - 23 and so on, just like the check engine light.
The Haynes manual has all of the diagnostic codes for the various computers on the truck, so check it out, even if you don't want to do the work yourelf, having the info might keep the mechanic from digging you to bad. Also, if your sure you know the problem, buy the part yourself, the mechanic will increase the price 200-300% just for picking it up. New front hubs are about $85 and a couple hours to install. If you have the time check out Rockauto.com, good prices, and a range of parts.
See ya, good luck, let us know what you find.
94
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