Exhaust finally in

[sganc4life_4]

Well, I spent a good part of yesterday from about 7-midnight taking my stock exhaust off, and today from about 4-7 putting on my new 3" turbo back. I did many stupid things, for one, putting a long screw in a small screw hole, then having to redo it. I was using my jack for part of the time that came with the car, then my gf happened to mention that she had a hydrolic one. Also, I used jackstands...these were very helpful, just somewhat of a pain in the ass tho. All in all, im extremely happy because now I accelerate much faster and it doesnt sound loud or obnoxious.

[Gsx_hooptie]

Glad you got it in, good times. Can't wait to start my car up. After finals.

Just some notes about installing exhaust.
1) If you're installing turboback:
A) PB Blaster the o2 housing to dp bolts (2 14mm) and rear o2 sensor (22mm) the night before.
B) Drive the car for awhile to warm up the exhaust, or have a torch handy before you work.
C) Respray your PB Blaster. Shit is only 2 dollars a bottle, use it. While it's hot, do the rear o2 sensor, under the car. Then from the top, do the two dp bolts. Wait until the car cools down, now.
D) Now that it's a little more humane under the car, take the exhaust off of the hangers (8? 14mm). These come out easily, they aren't rusted, and no need for them to be hot. Work from the front to the back.
E) Slide the exhaust out from under the car.
---Optional---
F) If you want to keep parts of the old exhaust, now you have room to work. More PB Blaster, more heat, more 14mm. Not worth it, IMO.

After doing this once and realizing better ways of doing things, I could imagine taking the old exhaust off in one hour. Putting it back on in less.

When putting the exhaust back on, check your bolts. If they suck, replace them. The right thread pitch, high grade, and antiseize, if new. Cleaned, not stripped, and antiseize, if used.

Also, having a nice jack is worth the money. I bought a 10 dollar 2 1/2 jack from kragen that dropped my Ford on the ground without warning. A good hydrolic jack is safer and "funner." Sears, 50 dollars. And don't work under a car with just a jack supporting it. Use stands, and a jack. With this job, you need four stands.

[JoeWagon]

Are we sure that o2/dp bolts are 14mm? I could have sworn they were 17mm or 19mm... at least larger than the normal bolts.

[Gsx_hooptie]

Originally Posted by JoeWagon

Are we sure that o2/dp bolts are 14mm? I could have sworn they were 17mm or 19mm... at least larger than the normal bolts.

Joe is right, they're 19mm nuts. My apologies, just went out and checked. I verified my hangers were 14mm. Pretty sure 22mm was right, had to buy that wrench separately. The other exhaust pieces are held to one another by several different sizes. Mine are too coroded to give accurate numbers Thanks for the correction, sorry.

[sganc4life_4]

Yea, I was gonna say, the biggest I went wasnt over a 18mm definatly, oh well, a bit too late to correct you

[kjewer1]

The thread on the O2 studs is M12x1.25. There are a couple different hex sizes in that thread, especially if they came from a hardware store.

[Gsx_hooptie]

Originally Posted by 95 GSXracer

The thread on the O2 studs is M12x1.25. There are a couple different hex sizes in that thread, especially if they came from a hardware store.

Yeah, that's an important note. You don't remove bolts, you remove nuts, and the nuts could vary in socket size so long as their internal dimmensions fit the bolt.