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#1
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Clutch Slave cylinder
ok about 2 days ago after school i started my car and noticed the clutch was extremly heavy and felt like it had no hydrolic pressure but still drives so i go home and check my fluid and it's low. i pour some in and the clutch gets a tad bit better but only for a day. the next day it was stiffer then ever and the resivour was full so i decide to bleed the system since the fluid was extreamly dirty. well when i go to put the bleeder hose on the nipple on the slave cylinder i push on the rubber boot that goes over the rod that pushes the release fork and fluid bursts out the sides of the boot. i remove the boot and fluid comes pouring out the slave cylinder. Sooooooo im guessing teh slave cylinder is bad correct? do they make a rebuild kit or is it better just to replace the whole thing? it's just as simple as removing the old one and bolting the new one in then bleeding the system right?? would this be the reason why it felt sooooooooo stifff?? thanks guys
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1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Twin Turbo- Forged Ross Pistons,Forged Crank,Forged and Shotpeened Rods,Stillin DP,K&N FIPK,Greddy Type-RS BOV,Magnacor Wires,Aluminum Y-Pipe,EGR Blocked,All Gutted Cats,Greddy Turbo Timer,Blitz Boost Guage,Autometer A\F Guage,Solid Shift Bushings,Red Top Batt,ACT 6 Puck Clutch,Free Boost Mod,99 Front End Conversion
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#2
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Re: Clutch Slave cylinder
also, i can't seem to put the cap on the resivour....everytime i try, pressure or something pushes it up and it won't stay on. also, wat is the white plastic thing on the cap for?
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1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Twin Turbo- Forged Ross Pistons,Forged Crank,Forged and Shotpeened Rods,Stillin DP,K&N FIPK,Greddy Type-RS BOV,Magnacor Wires,Aluminum Y-Pipe,EGR Blocked,All Gutted Cats,Greddy Turbo Timer,Blitz Boost Guage,Autometer A\F Guage,Solid Shift Bushings,Red Top Batt,ACT 6 Puck Clutch,Free Boost Mod,99 Front End Conversion
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#3
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Im surprised no one replied to this thread!
My advise is get both the master and the slave at the same time and change them both. If you do one and not the other then you'll just end up leaking again. dont ask me why, I did my slave and 4 weeks later my master atarted leaking. I drove like that for 2 months, changed the master and three weeks later the slave is leaking again. My mechanic just said "I told you so". so yeah bro just get them both done. its like changing the timming belt and not the water pump! get it all done in one shot. the master is 80 bucks the slave is like 60.
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![]() 06 GTO: SLP Longtubes, SLP Loudmouth II K&N intake, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle body, MAF screen delete. Tunned by Jeremy Formato. 381whp, 376wtq. 07 Ion Redline: Bone stock w/ factory Competition package. In response to a race my wife had while pregnant with our baby: Quote:
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#4
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Re: Clutch Slave cylinder
I don't think that means its bad...because when I moved my boot fluid came bursting out and I put it back on, bled it, and haven't had any problems with it. FYI putting in the master (actually called the slave and the other thing is the pushrod) is a pain the muther F'in ass.
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1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - 269AWHP/290AWTQ (Mustang Dyno) - [email protected] - 1.756 60ft. - [email protected] (Best TDO4-9B Time) - Driver Mod - IPS TD04-19TL - SPEC 4+ - Wiseco Pistons - 3SX Custom Forged Rods - PMP FMIC + Much More.
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#5
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the slave shouldnt leak at all though. if its leaking its cause its gone bad. the master cylinder is located next to your brake booster on the firewall, driver's side. its where you fill in the clutch fluid. the slave is the one over the tranny on the passenger side.
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![]() 06 GTO: SLP Longtubes, SLP Loudmouth II K&N intake, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle body, MAF screen delete. Tunned by Jeremy Formato. 381whp, 376wtq. 07 Ion Redline: Bone stock w/ factory Competition package. In response to a race my wife had while pregnant with our baby: Quote:
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#6
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Re: Clutch Slave cylinder
is it me or does this sound backwards?
I haven't had this problem in my GT, but when my 5 speed explorer's cylinders started to go, the clutch didn't stiffen...it had no pressure and wouldn't come back up off the floor when i released it.
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#7
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Re: Clutch Slave cylinder
welp i kinda read this a bit late cuz i jus replaced my slave cylinder and when i pulled the pistion out of the old one, the rubber gasket around it was all torn to hell so yea i replaced the whole cylinder and now my clutch works better then ever! it must have leaked ever since i got the car cuz now its just smooth as can be so yea. but i left the master alone...should i really replace it?
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1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Twin Turbo- Forged Ross Pistons,Forged Crank,Forged and Shotpeened Rods,Stillin DP,K&N FIPK,Greddy Type-RS BOV,Magnacor Wires,Aluminum Y-Pipe,EGR Blocked,All Gutted Cats,Greddy Turbo Timer,Blitz Boost Guage,Autometer A\F Guage,Solid Shift Bushings,Red Top Batt,ACT 6 Puck Clutch,Free Boost Mod,99 Front End Conversion
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#8
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Re: Clutch Slave cylinder
Well if aint broke dont fix it!
__________________
1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - 269AWHP/290AWTQ (Mustang Dyno) - [email protected] - 1.756 60ft. - [email protected] (Best TDO4-9B Time) - Driver Mod - IPS TD04-19TL - SPEC 4+ - Wiseco Pistons - 3SX Custom Forged Rods - PMP FMIC + Much More.
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#9
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Re: Re: Clutch Slave cylinder
Quote:
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