'94' Probe NO SPARK

[Russ06]

Can't find the problem. Driving down the road and car dies in motion. It's not the timing belts, all dash gauges work, and car turns over. No spark and don't believe it's the distributor. Any ideas? Please help!

[daveid]

my fiance's aspire did that too. I found out it is the ignition module which is in the distributer which makes the spark, BUT ford doesnt sell just that peice i know for the aspires! you have to buy the whole distributer.

hope this helps,
david

[mysatilac]

If its not the distributor, its the Ignition Control Module, the Coil, the Crankshaft position sensor, cylinder sensor, or TDC sensor, the plug wires, or the plugs, or the PCM thats in order of likeliness,
There are various tests for these,

For Most Cars: The ICM can be tested at Autozone, same with the coil, check with a noid light to see if the injectors are firing to test the crank sensor, plug wires and plugs you'd have spark on the other cylinders, so thats probably out, and the PCM is hard to diagnose
The ICM, Crank/cyl/tdc, sensors, sometimes the coil are all in the distributor,

[daveid]

sorry. thats true to, to do process of elmination. I guess a should have only suggested what could be wrong. lol. I know to that the aspires done have coils so i was assuming that too.
thanx for correcting me mysatilac

david

[Kurtdg19]

Yea I would also first check the ICM. Just take off your distributor cap and it should be located somewhere underneath the rotor. Take er out and bring it to an Autozone (or whathaveyou) as mysatilac mentioned and they can test it for you right there. If they determine it doesn't work, then this is more than likely your problem. If so before you reinstall a new one, be sure to apply some silicone lub on the bottom metal part of the module before you put it back (or the new module could quickly fail). You mines will inspect the condition of the cap and rotor while you've got it off.

An excessive amount of buring/pitting on the metal contact on top of the rotor usually indictates that there is a bad seal between the cap (moisture is getting in) and may cause the rotor to quit working.

If these still aren't solving the problem, I would then move on to the coil. The coil can be checked at an autozone type store.

In my limited experience with the ignition system, its usually a process of narrowing down your possible problems one shot at a time. Testing the ICM and coil first can usually save you some money rather than simply replacing them and finding out that they weren't the problem.

Good Luck, hope this helps.