Camry Codes

[nergohs]

My girlfriend took her car in to get smogged (California) and she failed do to her check engine light being on. When she took it to get looked at they told her got codes PO135, PO510,P1300.

I think one of these has something to do with the O2 sensor but I'm not sure on the rest. Any help in finding out what these mean would be greatly appreciated.

[Brian R.]

Welcome to the AF!

P0135 is "Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)".

Fast answer: Either the HO2 sensor or the circut providing current for the HO2 sensor heater is not doing its job.

P0510 is "Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction"

Fast Answer: Your throttle position sensor is not giving the ECM a "Closed Position" signal. This is either the switch, the circuit, or the ECM.

P1300 is "Igniter Circuit Malfunction"

Fast Answer: Your igniter is not sending a IGF signal to the ECM for 6 consecutive IGT signals while the engine is running. There is an open or shorted IGF or IGT circuit from the ignitor to the ECM, a bad ignitor, or bad ECM.

These may not be exactly applicable to your car, since you didn't provide the year, it is guesswork on my part. These apply to a 1996 1MZ-FE V6 and other years for this engine.

I would erase these codes (remove ECM fuse for a few seconds or pull battery cable) and drive it. See what codes are current. Some may be old and no longer applicable.

[nergohs]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Welcome to the AF!

P0135 is "Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)".

P0510 is "Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction"

P1300 is "Igniter Circuit Malfunction"

These may not be exactly applicable to your car, since you didn't provide the year, it is guesswork on my part. These apply to a 1996 1MZ-FE V6 and other years for this engine.

Thanks a lot. It is a actually a 94 Camry but she took a look at your post and thinks that is what the guy said.

[Brian R.]

I added to the post, look again.

[nergohs]

Okay well tomorrow I'm going to replace the O2 sensor and take a look at the throttle. As for as the igniter circuit.....this is probably a stupid question but could bad spark plugs or spark plug wires give that code or is it definetly the distributor or the ECM? Also what should I be looking for on my throttle to pin point the problem?

Thanks again for any help.

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Welcome to the AF!

P0135 is "Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)".

Fast answer: Either the HO2 sensor or the circut providing current for the HO2 sensor heater is not doing its job.

P0510 is "Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction"

Fast Answer: Your throttle position sensor is not giving the ECM a "Closed Position" signal. This is either the switch, the circuit, or the ECM.

P1300 is "Igniter Circuit Malfunction"

Fast Answer: Your igniter is not sending a IGF signal to the ECM for 6 consecutive IGT signals while the engine is running. There is an open or shorted IGF or IGT circuit from the ignitor to the ECM, a bad ignitor, or bad ECM.

These may not be exactly applicable to your car, since you didn't provide the year, it is guesswork on my part. These apply to a 1996 1MZ-FE V6 and other years for this engine.

I would erase these codes (remove ECM fuse for a few seconds or pull battery cable) and drive it. See what codes are current. Some may be old and no longer applicable.

[Brian R.]

I'm not sure, but I don't believe that anything other than the igniter can create this problem (except of course the circuitry or ECM, as I listed above). Not the distributor.

Erase the codes and recheck them. You may no longer have one or more of these codes.

For TPS:
Check throttle body by testing vacuum at ports E, R, and P (disconnect hoses one at a time - the two on top of the throttle body and one pointed directly opposite the throttle linkage without elbow).
No vacuum at idle.
Vacuum at 3000 rpm

Inspect resistance of throttle position sensor.
Apply vacuum to port with elbow on top of throttle body (throttle opener) and disconnect sensor connector. Insert a feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever. Use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance between each terminal. Terminals are VC, VTA, IDL, and E2 - top to bottom.

Clearance
0 mm VTA-E2 0.28-6.4 kOhms
0.35 mm IDL-E2 0.5 kOhms or less
0.70 mm IDL-E2 No continuity
Throttle Valve Fully Open VTA-E2 2.0-11.6 kOhms
Always VC-E2 2.7-7.7 kOhms
If not as specified, adjust TPS.
Adjust TPS by loosening two set screws on side of TPS. Apply vacuum to throttle opener and insert feeler gauge (0.54 mm, 0.021 in) between throttle set screw and stop lever.
Connect ohmmeter to IDL and E2 connector. Gradually turn sensor clockwise until ohmmeter deflects and secure TPS with set screws.
Recheck continuity between IDL-E2
Clearance
0.35 mm Continuity
0.70 mm No continuity

Check throttle opener setting speed
Connect everything from above tests. Disconnect hose from opposite end of hose on throttle opener and plug hose.
Idle should be 900-1950 rpm. If not, replace throttle body.