1998 Taurus No Heat

[keepfixin]

Hi folks--wondered if anyone could shed any light. I've got hot coolant hoses going to and from my heater core, but when I turn my temp knob to hot, still nothing. I'm thinking an air mix damper? Are these run by vaccum? If so, any preferred method of getting to this particular damper?

thanks in advance for any help!

[sfontain]

Originally Posted by keepfixin

Hi folks--wondered if anyone could shed any light. I've got hot coolant hoses going to and from my heater core, but when I turn my temp knob to hot, still nothing. I'm thinking an air mix damper? Are these run by vaccum? If so, any preferred method of getting to this particular damper?

thanks in advance for any help!

I think you're talking about a blend door. And yes that could be it. I'm not aware of the procedure for getting to this, though; sorry. I would think a Haynes book would help you out.

The other big possibility that jumps to mind is a stuck-shut thermostat, which isn't terribly uncommon. As always, ensure that your coolant is filled up.

Question: What does your temperature guage read when the car is all warmed up?

[keepfixin]

Originally Posted by sfontain

I think you're talking about a blend door. And yes that could be it. I'm not aware of the procedure for getting to this, though; sorry. I would think a Haynes book would help you out.

The other big possibility that jumps to mind is a stuck-shut thermostat, which isn't terribly uncommon. As always, ensure that your coolant is filled up.

Question: What does your temperature guage read when the car is all warmed up?

My temp guage functions normally and maintains correct temp(needle stays about halfway between H and C). I thought of a stuck tstat originally, but after the intake and outlet of the heater core were too hot to touch, I dismissed the tstat....did I miss anything?

[sfontain]

Originally Posted by keepfixin

My temp guage functions normally and maintains correct temp(needle stays about halfway between H and C). I thought of a stuck tstat originally, but after the intake and outlet of the heater core were too hot to touch, I dismissed the tstat....did I miss anything?

Well, if you are absolutely certain that your heater core is circulating, then it does sound like a blend door. If your temperature guage is operating as usual then it suggests that your thermostat is fine.

I'm no expert on this but here is what I'd do: Drive/run your car with the heater blower off until the car is warmed up. Park so you can hear better; turn your temperature selector to completely cold, wait 5 seconds, and turn on the fan to like the third speed. Then flip your temperature all the way to hot; you should hear a change in the sound of the air coming out, and maybe *some* heat. Try to do this on a cold day or at night so the outside air is as cold as possible. If you get absolutely no heat and there's no audible change in the sound when you turn back and forth from hot to cold, you definitely need to unstick the blend door or get a new motor. Unfortunately, you would need to remove the dash. But if you do get some heat at first but then the air gradually turns colder, I would suspect the heater core.

[keepfixin]

Originally Posted by sfontain

Well, if you are absolutely certain that your heater core is circulating, then it does sound like a blend door. If your temperature guage is operating as usual then it suggests that your thermostat is fine.

I'm no expert on this but here is what I'd do: Drive/run your car with the heater blower off until the car is warmed up. Park so you can hear better; turn your temperature selector to completely cold, wait 5 seconds, and turn on the fan to like the third speed. Then flip your temperature all the way to hot; you should hear a change in the sound of the air coming out, and maybe *some* heat. Try to do this on a cold day or at night so the outside air is as cold as possible. If you get absolutely no heat and there's no audible change in the sound when you turn back and forth from hot to cold, you definitely need to unstick the blend door or get a new motor. Unfortunately, you would need to remove the dash. But if you do get some heat at first but then the air gradually turns colder, I would suspect the heater core.

Thanks--So far I've narrowed it down to the blend door actuator or the temp control potentiometer. I'll let you know how it turns out.
thanks!

[Wodinator]

I have a similar problem. While idling, the heat is nil, but as long as the car is moving, the heat is "ok". If I am driving highway speeds, the heat is great. I am suspicious that the water pump is bad. I have a feeling the impeller blades are worn down, therefore they don't circulate the water through the system, it just lets the water swish around. Once I get around to changing the water pump, I'll update whether or not the heating problem is fixed.

[maspoon]

wouldnt the blen door bepart of the plastic case around the heater core?

[sfontain]

Originally Posted by Wodinator

I have a similar problem. While idling, the heat is nil, but as long as the car is moving, the heat is "ok". If I am driving highway speeds, the heat is great. I am suspicious that the water pump is bad. I have a feeling the impeller blades are worn down, therefore they don't circulate the water through the system, it just lets the water swish around. Once I get around to changing the water pump, I'll update whether or not the heating problem is fixed.

If your water pump isn't working properly then your engine should be hotter than usual.

[Wodinator]

ahhh...true dat.

[KimMG]

Wodinator, your problem sounds different than keepfixin's. Yours is syptomatic of a partially clogged heater core.

[Wodinator]

my hubby claims her flushed it. I'm willing to bet if I do it myself, the problem will subside. *snicker*

[KimMG]

Wodinator- heater cores have to be flushed separately from the rest of the cooling system. Ask hubby if he flushed the heater core by itself.

[keepfixin]

OK folks--got it fixed. It was the blend door actuator--part XF1Z-19E616-CA. ('98 model) No need to remove dash. Takes a small rachet and 20 minutes to remove and a little more time to install new one. Works like a charm. thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

[brainhaze]

Originally Posted by keepfixin

OK folks--got it fixed. It was the blend door actuator--part XF1Z-19E616-CA. ('98 model) No need to remove dash. Takes a small rachet and 20 minutes to remove and a little more time to install new one. Works like a charm. thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

please tell me how you did it. i have the same problem. my heat blows lukewarm air all the time, i just want to make my door stick open all the time, at least until spring, lol


one other thing, my AC got stuck opn, no matter what i did, it ran full blast and made ice cold air come out. i disconnected the AC, but now all i get is lukewarm air. i have flushed cooling sys, but not core by itself. will try that today.

[cob206]

Originally Posted by brainhaze

please tell me how you did it. i have the same problem. my heat blows lukewarm air all the time, i just want to make my door stick open all the time, at least until spring, lol


one other thing, my AC got stuck opn, no matter what i did, it ran full blast and made ice cold air come out. i disconnected the AC, but now all i get is lukewarm air. i have flushed cooling sys, but not core by itself. will try that today.

I had the same problem. There is a ford TSB on this exact issue. It may not be a bad actuator but a stuck blend door. There is a replacement Blend door available from Ford, but It says you you have to remove the dash to get to it. I found a procedure online that explains how to get to the actuator without pulling the dash. I'm not sure if you can change the blend door using it though. It will at least explain how to get to the Actuator. Here's the link.

http://www.airsept.com/Articles/Recy...cs_SR03.03.pdf

The article you want is titled "Tips from the Top - Time savings on heater core replacement."

I have not changed my blend door yet. I ran diags on my EATC and fortunately the problem cleared itself. If you have EATC, run the diags by pressing Off and Floor simultaneously, followed by depressing the Auto button. Result code 888 indicates no problem. 024 or 025 indicate a Blend Door Actuator malfunction, or Intermittent Blend Door Actuator malfunction respectively. The problem according to the TSB, will show these codes. The blend door may become distorted and bind.

I can email you a copy of the TSB if you like.