Subwoofer Install

[quickywd01]

My friend has a pioneer TS-W30M he said he can let me have so I wanted to know if I can connect it to my stock 140w system. He says i'll just have to bridge it with the rear speaker outs. I thought that didn't sound right so I was wondering if anyones knows. If I can use it with my stock system i'll also get a amp for it and make a box for it, only needs 1.3 cf.

1999 sonata gls

[ponchonutty]

Your contradicting your words. No you can't jsut bridge it to your OEM stereo. You can however, install line out converters to convert the speaker outputs to RCA.

Also, 1.3 cu/ft is large if it is for a sealed box and about average if it is for a ported.

[quickywd01]

I'm building a bandpass box for it. The specs say it needs 0.9 cubic feet for the ported chamber and 0.9 cubic feet for the sealed chaber and the port needs to be 4 inches by 7 inches. I'm going to have some time before it goes in so i'll have to read up on installing it. I know I will be taking my dash apart to get to my radio but thats all I know so far because I don't know if there is a factory plug for a sub or if I will have to splice into anything. You said I can use line out convertors to convert it to rca, I will check that out and post back. I think thats what I meant to say in the first place but didn't word it correctly lol.

[ponchonutty]

Bandpass box designs are usually not recomended unless you really know what you are doing. A god sealed or ported is usually plenty. There are no OEM hookups for sub amps.

[quickywd01]

The box is almost finished. I'll start reading up on the hook up.

[quickywd01]

If my sub can handle 150watts rms and 600 watts peak, what kind of power do I need coming from my amp. I was thinking I need a 300w amp so I can bridge it to put out 600w. Am I right?

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by quickywd01

If my sub can handle 150watts rms and 600 watts peak, what kind of power do I need coming from my amp. I was thinking I need a 300w amp so I can bridge it to put out 600w. Am I right?

No. It depends on the actual numbers the sub can do. You should see this with the paperwork. Do not look at the numbers on the boxes they came in. You need to know what the ohms are of the sub? Then you need to match or better that number on the amp. So, if your sub is a 4 ohm SVC sub then you'd want an amp that can go at least 300 watts RMS @ 4 ohm. If you get 2 of those subs, then you'll need an amp that can go at least 300 watts RMS @ 2ohm. These rates should be given at least at 14 volts. If you find an amp that has these numbers at 12volts consider that as a bonus.

[quickywd01]

Here are the specs that I can provide you with, IMPP composite cone woofer, Dual-layer urethane surround, 4-layer, longer voice coil , Aluminum coil bobbin, Conex damper with damper ring, Projected pole yoke with vented pole, Bumped backplate, Molded gasket, 600 watts maximum music power, 150 watts nominal power handling, 20 Hz to 4,000 Hz frequency response, 4 ohm impedance rating , 91 dB sensitivity.

[ponchonutty]

The only thing you need to know is the 150 nominal watts @ 4ohm. So, look for an amp that can do at least 300 watts @ 2 ohm.

[quickywd01]

I saw an amp that is rated at 300w in signal channel and 150 in 2 channel. It is a 4 ohm amp. Will this be good?

[ponchonutty]

No, you need a 2ohm mono able amp.

[defpony]

If i was you id buy this amp:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=2789

its rated 120wrms @ 4 ohm @ 12.5 volts
So at 14.4 volts (when your car is running) it would be pretty close to 150wrms

Matches up perfect with your sub.

[quickywd01]

Thanks for the support, but low on funds. A buddy is supposed to get a job at a electronics place so i'll see what happens.