Sliders bent frame

Aussie · #1 03-30-2002, 08:12 PM

It appears that I have bent my frame where the sliders bolt on. They are EOE sliders but that does not matter because the sliders did not bend. The problem is that the weakest part is where the sliders bolt on and all sliders bolt on the same way.

I'm not exactly where it happened but I must have bounced on a rock somewhere. The force from this pulled on the bolts and put a bulge in the frame and a small ding in the body. It's hard to see in the photo, but there is a small gap at the bottom of the bracket because of the bulge, the other side is flush.

A couple of questions:
1. How should I get the bulge out of the frame? I don't think a hammer or clamp will work, I'm thinking I going to need some sort of hydraulic clamp.

2. How can I stop this happening again? Would a weld along the bottom be sufficient or would this have caused more damage? Does the frame need more strengthening of some sort, and then the slider bolted back on?

What do you think?

Richard

Olegkha · #2 03-30-2002, 11:42 PM

make a hole through the frame
and put a longer bolt and the nut on the other side

maybe that will help

O1SalsaX · #3 03-31-2002, 01:06 AM

That doesnt look like your frame is bent based on the first pic. It looks like you extremely lower rocker panels. I have the same problem, actually from what I've seen this is a very common problem with sliders. It has nothing to do with the make of the sliders, from what I've heard it is caused by body-roll. When you are off-camber the body will rub against the slider mounts and bend the little lip under the rocker panels.
If this isnt what the picture is showing, then I havent a clue what you should do.
I hope this was a help
L8r

Aussie · #4 03-31-2002, 06:55 AM

I'm sure body roll played some part in it, but I don't remember the slider angling up to the front and the gap at the bottom of the bracket. The other side is level and no gap.

Richard

Xlax · #5 04-18-2002, 01:26 PM

I had my Sliders Custom made, funny you shoudl mention body roll. I had a picture of the EOE slider and the guy who made mine stated that body roll would be a problem. We mounted them 3/8 of an inch lower which seems to take care of the problem.....

If you are looking at keeping your sliders on permanently you might want to weld them on...or atleast make sure they are tight enough after each trip....I discovered that one of my bolts was loose after a trip 2 weeks ago.

good luck

C

ScottG · #6 04-18-2002, 02:35 PM

I think welding them should do the trick. There is a Toyota site that sells sliders (I believe it is allprooffroad.com ) that welds a little triangle piece of metal to the frame and the slider arm to give it more strength. In my opinion, the only way to attach the sliders so that they will handle abuse is to weld them. We had a debate on this a long time ago. You may want to look through the old threads.

rrdstarr · #7 04-18-2002, 04:18 PM

If you'll remember from way back! Like last summer! Mine are welded just along the bottom edge. My opinion is that the weld will keep them from bending up if I come down on something hard! I try to ease over obstacles 95% of the time. If I damage them, I can cut the 2" weld and remove them. I have smacked them several times and not had any problems! I put POR-15 on the welds and frame where I had to grind it away for welding. Best stuff you can buy!!!

I have never had the bolts back out like Claus has and Schlud has! But I check them before I head out on a weekend just in case!

ozxterra · #8 04-18-2002, 07:13 PM

Bummer - I reckon a weld would help. I have the Calmini's and have beat the hell out of them and they look good with no damage but they dont offer the size or protection of the EOE's.

warmonger · #9 04-19-2002, 06:41 AM

I think after Aussies problem in TN I am going to resolve the problem without welding. On my Jeeps I had, I mounted my sliders and nerf bars by drilling through the frame competely on the bottom bolts. Since the most pressure is applied upward and the frame at the bend is the strongest point, you can accomplish the same thing as the weld using bolts that run completely through the frame on the bottom. I did the same thing with my rear tow hooks on my X and all tow hooks on both Jeeps. It is ultra strong and it is almost impossible to tweak through two layers of frame. Since sliders will take hits from rocks which will cause rust and need paint or eventual replacement, I don't want to have to fuss with cutting welds. Removing bolts is far more convenient and if set up right almost as strong.

FSRBIKER · #10 04-19-2002, 09:33 AM

Your right Gordon drilling through the frame like Craisy Daisy has done and several others is another option...but a hard one, email CD about it as it's not an easy procedure unless you have a body lift and can get a straight shot at the frame with the drill.

warmonger · #11 04-19-2002, 10:13 AM

Actually it is already done. I am only drilling through the lower bolt holes. The top ones will stay as is. The bottom bolt holes are where the pressure is applied when the weight of the truck is on the slider.

wilburburns · #12 04-19-2002, 10:20 AM

OK, I had a long post, but It got lost in Internet land.......

[short version]
Anyway, War, drilling through the frame for the bottom (or both even better) is a good solution for strengthening. However, that being said, it's a lot more difficult than it looks. For example, the passenger's side frame rail has the the gas lines attached to it, and the gas tank is in the way for the rear mount. If I recall correctly, there are a couple of other items attached there..

Also, be sure to reinforce the inside frame rail, so that the stress does not try and pinch the frame rail together.

Cliff

warmonger · #13 04-19-2002, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by wilburburns
OK, I had a long post, but It got lost in Internet land.......

[short version]
Anyway, War, drilling through the frame for the bottom (or both even better) is a good solution for strengthening. However, that being said, it's a lot more difficult than it looks. For example, the passenger's side frame rail has the the gas lines attached to it, and the gas tank is in the way for the rear mount. If I recall correctly, there are a couple of other items attached there..

Also, be sure to reinforce the inside frame rail, so that the stress does not try and pinch the frame rail together.

It's actually a lot easier than it looks. It is already done. The rock slider will go on today or tomorrow and it will be mission accomplished. I am looking at building a metal plate that will stretch the length of the slide across the three bottom bolts. That will reinforce the frame on the backside. I think you guys are making it harder than it is. It took me a grand total of about 30 minutes of drilling to pop the holes. I have a friend with metal stock who will make my frame braces and it is mission accompished.

Craigs_Tonka · #14 04-28-2002, 01:23 AM

adding a C-channel to the slider mounts so it holds the entire frame rail instead of just the outer piece.

Essentially I will slide the sliders UP into place and then put the bolts in the factory holes. This will reduce the stress on the bottom bolts by gripping the entire frame. I've dones some stress testing on the sliders and the frame rails and ALL of my flex is coming from the frame, but it is too much for my liking. This doesn't seem like a very difficult thing to add since I built my own sliders anyway.

coolerman · #15 05-08-2002, 09:10 PM

Craigs_Tonka,
Did you ever get that 'C' channel idea worked out? I would like to see some pics of it... Sounds like a very good idea and would add a lot of metal to the bottom of the frame for 'sliding' over rocks.

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