*PICS*Deadened the hell out of my truck + more!

[ngsm13]

WOOOHOOOO!!!!!

WOW, so excited. Well, Jason (UndercoverPunk on caraudio.com) came over yesterday at about 1 p.m. to help me out on some deadening. Deadener was SecondSkin Damplifier and SecondSkin Spectrum.

After borrowing my truck from the mechanic's (Just got a whole new transmission, 3 weeks later...problems... thank god for 3 year warranty) We took it home and began to strip it down. Took All the seats, body panels, and carpet out. There are AT LEAST 2 layers of Damplifier EVERYWHERE seen (sometime 3 layers). Spectrum didn't get used yet....MAYBE i'll put the full gallon on the floor next time.


Here's a pic of a *few* things in the bed of the truck...


After about... 10 hours... we decided enough deadening...just about out. Plenty of pics (all clickable thumbnails):
Some overall shots:


Ceiling:


Back Wall & Rear Side Walls:




MORE PICS COMING IN 2nd POST!!!!

NG

[ngsm13]

Rear Side Wall:

Back Wall:



Also, had the chance to resin the inside of my 18XXX box, big thanks to my brother (qutorial on caraudio.com) for helping with that, Pics:




Whew....and it's done. I can't thank Jason enough!!!!! Without him it would NOT be done...and it wouldn't look as great! We got done @ about 4:30 am this morning...thanks again Jason!!!!!!!


NG

PS: Waiting on my subwoofer amplifier to get back...just beating on the body panels and the roof it sounds amazingly solid. Results will be in when the sub & amp are back in!

[ponchonutty]

Why did you use the foil backing? That's a little pricey and is usually only used for areas like the floor and firewall because of heat issues.

Also, what's with the box and resin? Never seen anyone brush MDF with resin. I can't see how that will help because you can't get the resin to soak into the wood before it sets up. If you need it to be real strong, I suggest using HDF instead.

[ngsm13]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Why did you use the foil backing? That's a little pricey and is usually only used for areas like the floor and firewall because of heat issues.

Also, what's with the box and resin? Never seen anyone brush MDF with resin. I can't see how that will help because you can't get the resin to soak into the wood before it sets up. If you need it to be real strong, I suggest using HDF instead.

Buddy, I know what I'm doing.
You seem to have plenty of questions...here's one for you: "Why question me so much?"

Anyways, it is SecondSkin Damplifier...one of THE BEST dampeners available. I know the owner, and he know EVERYTHING in the world about dampening materials. His product is butyl-based...not asphalt...and has great acoustical dampening properties. It has the HIGHEST heat tolerances of any product on the market. His products are superior to dynamat in every way. Also, pricey... That's 100+ sq. ft. and let's just say....I paid less than $100, much less considering I won 50+ sq. ft. of it in a raffle.

As for as resining the box, you use a little less hardener. Then you put two coats on the inside. In all honesty, it decreases flexibility and makes the inside solid. Also, it's MUCH cheaper than building a huge box with HDF.



NG

[aznxthuggie]

the resin was a great idea, if there was any flexing in the boxes, it would remove it completely, but i gotta say.. if u were afraid of flexing, why not just make it outta 1" mdf in the first place?

anyways good stuff

[AndonD454]

very impressed.. nice job NG

[ngsm13]

Originally Posted by aznxthuggie

the resin was a great idea, if there was any flexing in the boxes, it would remove it completely, but i gotta say.. if u were afraid of flexing, why not just make it outta 1" mdf in the first place?

anyways good stuff

Not really too afraid, just had some resin that I got for free...and got my brother to help out on a job...so that's what I used it for

Originally Posted by AndonD454

very impressed.. nice job NG

Thanks!

NG

[bumpinstang77]

I used a shitton of polyurethane inside my box...... achieves the same results

[ponchonutty]

ngsm13, I wasn't doubting that the Second Skin does or doesn't work. I use it too on some applications. I was just curious why you used the stuff used for heat all over the vehicle?

HDF isn't expensive. It is usually only about $10 more than MDF. If you took in account of the time spent putting resin on this box, HDF would have paid for itself. I am lucky. There is a wood machine shop that supplies me with free HDF unless I need a hole sheet at one time.

I understand the idea of using resin. The only problem is that you'd need to slap about a 1/4" of the stuff on to make it effective. At that point HDF would really pay off. Even 1" MDF would work as well too. On your set up, you don't have too much to worry about. Your box is a huge ported box so pressure levels woudn't be that high to make the MDF flex to the point that it messes with SQ.

[bumpinstang77]

HDF is still porous just like mdf.

[sr20de4evr]

Originally Posted by bumpinstang77

HDF is still porous just like mdf.

I think that's the main problem, they both let air pass through the wood. By coating the inside with resin he sealed it up.

[bumpinstang77]

Yea that's what I was saying.

[ponchonutty]

WTF???? I attended a siminar a long time ago in which we tested all kinds of materials. NONE OF THEM WOULD LEAK AIR. Not even fiberboard. They had little boxes made out of different material and actually metered the pressure. The problem isn't with airleaking (when properly built) but with the wood flexing. That's where HDF comes in. It is much more rigid. You could actually see the boxes flexing when filmed and replayed in slow motion. The amount of airleaking was minimal at most. It was stated that the subs themselves would leak more than the boxes.

Now, I am not trying to be funny here but are you guys just messing with me here???? If you all are indeed "box makers" you should know this. Please come clean so the newbs understand this too.

[bumpinstang77]

no ones messing with you MDF and HDF really is pourous and does let air seep through that's y all spl competitors use some kind of hardener on the boxes..... Using the hadeners (resin polyuerethane ect...) also helps minimize the flexing of the wood.

[ponchonutty]

Wow, never heard of that. The only thing I've seen other professionals do is double seal the seems but that's it. That siminar I am talking about I saw them have actual air chucks on these boxes with a pressure gauge. Granted it was only about 10lbs of air but after an hour, the gauge really didn't move.

Now, if your theory is correct and mine is wrong, how do you seal your paper coned sub? That's were all of your leaking is. Also, what good would it be to resin a box for airleaks like in ngsm's ported box? Like I said, you'd have to really get that resin soupy when applying it and be able to reapply it until to get it at least 1/8-1/4" for it to make it any more rigid.

You guys do know that HDF has more resin than wood don't you? Read up http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/materials.htm

http://www.keidel.com/design/select/...tl-eng.htm#HDF