DIY Tranny Flush

[Tom01Rodeo]

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.aspx

Has anyone attempted their own tranny flush? I've been checking around and its $90-100 for a flush and filter change. Figured I could attempt it myself. The problem would be pumping the tranny fluid in through the pan fast enough, I guess. Does anyone know how fast the fluid comes out the cooling lines while the engine is at low idle?

The reason I would try it is if I did it myself, I could afford to use synthetic fluid. I got one quote for at least $200 for a synthetic flush.

Tom.

[amigo-2k]

90-100 bucks to drop the pan, change the filter and then flush it?

that is dirt cheap. I pay 90 bucks just for the flush at my dealer. Jiffy Boob would flush it for 70 bucks.

[Tom01Rodeo]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

90-100 bucks to drop the pan, change the filter and then flush it?

that is dirt cheap. I pay 90 bucks just for the flush at my dealer. Jiffy Boob would flush it for 70 bucks.

I called several tranny shops and thats the price and service they quoted. They indicated there is a filter screen that needs cleaned, not necessarily replaced. The lube shops will only flush at that price.

[suvguy]

Originally Posted by Tom01Rodeo

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.aspx

Has anyone attempted their own tranny flush? I've been checking around and its $90-100 for a flush and filter change. Figured I could attempt it myself. The problem would be pumping the tranny fluid in through the pan fast enough, I guess. Does anyone know how fast the fluid comes out the cooling lines while the engine is at low idle?

The reason I would try it is if I did it myself, I could afford to use synthetic fluid. I got one quote for at least $200 for a synthetic flush.

Tom.

You can do it yourself easilly and use a better quality filter and fluid than you will get anywhere and for much cheaper price.

The Amsoil instructions you found would work if you did it yourself. The ideal way is to remove the return cooler line to the transmission (the line located near the rear of the transmission). The problem here is the lack of dipstick tube, so unless you have a flexible vane pump designed to pump ATF fluid, it will be near impossible to do it yourself in that manner. The tranny would pump more out than you could physically put back in without a suitable pump. A suitable pump would cost around $100 from Grainger (http://www.grainger.com, PN#4UN24). Couple garden hose to hose barb connectors and a few feet of 3/8" ID clear vynl hose from the hardware store and you have a suitable means of performing a flush equal or better than what an expensive shop can do.

Without a pump, there still is a way of performing a good flush. First is you should always replace the filter when you perform a full flush. If your filter becomes clogged with clutch pack dust and starts restricting flow, having new fluid in there makes no difference as the entire transission operates on fluid pressure and volume. You cannot proper operation and transmission longevity with a restrictive filter. So drain the fluid and drop the pan. Clean the gunk out and off the magnet and replace the filter with a good wquality filter, such as Hastings. While a Hastings filter may not be the cheapest filter on the market, but you do get what you pay for with a Hastings filter. The Hastings filter for my '00 Rodeo cost me $61, but I will gladly pay that for a quality well-constructed filter. Also uses Filtran material, which is what the factory uses as well. The ATF fluid used can also be upgraded in quality and still be less expensive than taking your ride to a mechanic. I used Amsoil Universal ATF which covers the transmission's fluid specifications. I bought 10 quarts (2.5 gallon jug) for $75. Total fill is 9 quarts, but is cheaper bought in bulk.

After replacing the filter and installing the pan with the new gasket, fill the pan with the new fluid. Start the engine and run through all the gears to get the fluid circulated for a minute. Stop the engine and drain the pan into a bucket then refill again with new fluid. Repeat until you have ran 9-10 quarts through the transmission leaving enough at the end for proper top-off. Took me about an hour and a half to do the fush from initial drain to final check and top-off. I bought my filter and fluid from Oil Werks at http://www.oilwerks.biz. There is an online application guide and an online store available there. My total cost was $138 for the flush which included top quality filter, top quality synthetic that can run a minimum of twice the regular change interval and a can of brake cleaner to clean the pan off.

suvguy
2000 Rodeo LS 3.2L Auto 4x2

[Tom01Rodeo]

Thanks for the great reply!! I like the idea of the pump.

Is there no "suction" on the return side of the tranny fluid cooler? If there was, I could see it being easier.

Any idea how fast the fluid comes out the pressure side of the cooler?

[suvguy]

Originally Posted by Tom01Rodeo

Thanks for the great reply!! I like the idea of the pump.

Is there no "suction" on the return side of the tranny fluid cooler? If there was, I could see it being easier.

Any idea how fast the fluid comes out the pressure side of the cooler?

There is no suction on the return side. The output side to the cooler is fluid directly out of the torque converter as that is where the majority of the heat produced by an automatic transmission occurs. Fluid being forced into the converter pushes the fluid out through an orifice and into the cooler circuit. Pressure is around 40 to 60psi in the cooler circuit. Given the size of the line and the cooler restrictions, you still have adequate flow and will outflow the Grainger pump I suggested depending on the amount head and size tubing used, but having two people and one to shut the engine off to let the fresh fluid pump catch up when needed is a solution. Full flush via fluid dilution is another method as I mentioned.

suvguy
2000 Rodeo LS 3.2L 4x2

[Tom01Rodeo]

Great, thanks!

I may give the dilution method a try in a couple of weeks.