Re: 91 Honda Civic Starting/Stalling problem

[Ms Wiz]

OK Guys. Girlie here. I've been reading all of this cause I have a similar problem. Only my car will start for a day or two, then it won't for at least two days. What I am wondering is: What is 44k and seafoam?

[brock_rick]

check the fuel relay, had the same problem.

[Ms Wiz]

Originally Posted by brock_rick

check the fuel relay, had the same problem.

Are you talking about the main relay switch under the dash? Or a different one; then where is it located? I plan on changing the fuel filter this weekend. Thanks for the help.

[brock_rick]

Yes the one under the dash. This relay acted up three, or four times. I changed it out after pulling the fuel tank and checking the fuel pump. Changed this relay and had no more problem.

[Ms Wiz]

I've changed out the main relay, spark plugs & wires, fuel filter (under the hood. did'nt know there was another by the gas tank) and put new distributor cap. Can't figure out how to take the rotor cap off to replace it and also found out I can have the ignition box checked out at parts store, but can't get it out either. I'm afraid I'll get everything out of alignment.

[Scott82]

There is a set scew on the rotor button that is kinda hard to see, it's a alan wrench head, i forget what size but it's not that big. Once you get the screw out it should just slide right off. The fuel pump relay will be different that the main relay so you may want to locate that and check it out like said before. When you turn your key on hold your ear close to your gas tank and see if you can hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on.

[amy@af]

Originally Posted by Ms Wiz

I've changed out the main relay, spark plugs & wires, fuel filter (under the hood. did'nt know there was another by the gas tank) and put new distributor cap. Can't figure out how to take the rotor cap off to replace it and also found out I can have the ignition box checked out at parts store, but can't get it out either. I'm afraid I'll get everything out of alignment.

if they will test it, take it out and have it tested. it could very well be your ignitor or coil

[Ms Wiz]

How do I take it (rotor & ignition box) out?? I don/t see a screw holding it (rotor) in & I'm afraid to pry on it real hard. If I can take the rotor out, I can get to ignition box. Thanks for the help.

[Ms Wiz]

Oops, sorry I didn't see the previous reply about the set screw. I will try that next. Thanks

[Ms Wiz]

OK......I don't have an "allen wrench" set screw on my rotor. This has a "phillips head" screw which is located about half an inch down the "long neck" part of the rotor. I looked in the box of the new rotor and it also has a phillips head or small socket type screw. Do I have to remove the entire distributor to get to this?? If so, how do I do that??

[dfarres]

nope... just rotate it around to the open spot and loosen the screw.

[Ms Wiz]

Does it allow you to move it by hand or do you have to "bump" the motor? What if the original location of the rotor (where it's pointing) is not the same. How critical is this?

[rosshatch89]

you have to bump it and the rotor is shaped so that you can only put it on one way and wont be able to mis-align it

[amy@af]

i'm curious...have you check for error codes on your ecu???

[Ms Wiz]

No I haven't. Doing process of elimination. Don't have a code machine and probably wouldn't know how to use it anyway. Thanks for the help.