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#1
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car diet
91 acura integra GS
i need to lose some weight off my car. what can i take out by just unbolting and what will take some more work? near future plans... shock: tokico coilovers? exaust: pure performance sugestions? cat back only. complete head work: any clue? clutch: stage 3 suggestions? with light weight flywheel any other suggestions |
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#2
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you can always take out your backseats, but it ruins the look of the inside.
As your tokico coilovers, i havent heard anything bad about them and they are one of the cheaper priced coilovers. They make good shocks and im sure they make good coilovers. For exhaust, i think the Greddy evo, apexi n1, or even the tanabe hyper medallion are good, unless your going turbo then thermal makes a good 3" exhaust. |
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#3
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i will be going turbo sonner or later. the coilovers i'm looking at are 425$ instalation is 125$. not to bad. i live in southwest CT and it's filled with lawnmowers. i'm not making a lawnmower out of my car. i just spent 3 hours dynamating my trunk...yes that's right...at 10:00 in 36 degree weather. luckily it's extream dynamat and it doesn't need to be hot. please reply to my post...i need a push in the right dirrection.
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#4
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Re: car diet
take out the spare tire, the cover that covers the hatch, the cover that covers the spare tire, the jack, the resonator for the intake, the center console is super easy to take out, speakers, stereo, glove compartment, insulation, antenna motor, a/c, power steering...i wouldnt take any of that stuff out though...
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Clear Corners Front and Rear Strut Bars Cold Air Intake with K&N filter Iridium Spark Plugs High Performance Plug Wires High Flow Cat (unistalled) Cool high/low beam lights All around slotted and AEM pads |
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#5
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Re: car diet
If you are staying NA, the DA integra does quite well with the HKS exhaust, as well as the Thermal Research and Developement.
As mentioned before, the Thermal 3" is superb for boost applications. I always found removing the spare tire as an idiotic idea.(just my $0.02) You can remove the sound deadener in the spare tire well as well as around the wheel wells. Some people notch their bumper reinforcemnts (the safer way, as opposed to replacing with the JDM bumpers) You may also replace your front crossmember with oe from place racing. That is a nice weight loss and it opens the front up better for boost (more room) Just a few ideas. Good luck. |
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#6
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Re: car diet
Even if you take all that stuff out, how much more speed are you going to gain from removing like 100 pounds of stuff? do you guys think it is worth it?
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#7
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Re: car diet
From 100 pounds of weight reduction you can effectively gain the effect of about 6 or so hp. Our power to weight ratios are something like 18 lbs. to 1 hp or so from the last time that I figure it out... that's just on average from what I can gather about the weight of our cars.
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~!~David~!~ 1998 GSR, 86k miles, AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1 Ceramic Header.
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#8
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Re: car diet
WOW thats alot more then i thought it would be, whats the easiest way to cut 100 pounds with out loseing like your entire interior?
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#9
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Re: car diet
I really think that number is off. Your displacement never changes. HP does not improve when lightening a car. You are removing the resistance, nothing more. You allow the hp to do more for your car by removing weight.
Think about it; if you take your bookbag off, you can run faster right? is it because you are more fit without it? NO, you just have less to hold you back. The harsh reality of it all is this, removing weight unleashes minimal power. If you are looking for power, go for cams, some bolt-ons, FI, N20, etc. If you are expecting to beat your local 300hp mustang with removing weight, I hate to break the bad news. You will improve your 1/4 mile times a tad, but unless you actually remove metal and replace it with lets say cf etc, you are not making any significant difference. Hope that helps. |
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#10
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Re: car diet
"gain the EFFECT of about 6 or so hp."
I know it doesn't actually add more horsepower, I'm saying it will be similar to adding hp, in the effect it has. Removing weight from a car allows each hp to be more effective, because it's not pulling that extra, whatever lbs.
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~!~David~!~ 1998 GSR, 86k miles, AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1 Ceramic Header.
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#11
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you are all wrong. sorry. but here is how this works.
horsepower = weight(velocity/234)3 ::3 means cubed:: now if you add weight but everything else stays the same...you will have more horsepower. if you lose weight you will lose HP. it doesn't sound right but it is. mustangs have a lot of horsepower, right? integras have half the horse power normally. now a mustang isn't going to go twice as fast. why? because it is a much heavier car. if you race a 3000 lbs truck against a 800 lbs car. and the race is a tie. the truck has a lot more horsepower than the car. now since i am "cutting out the fat" from my car it will run faster. it's like a human body...if you weigh 300lbs and time your 40yrd dash and get 10 seconds...then you get lyposuction and do it in 8 seconds there is an improvement. once again. if you weigh 300 lbs and cut off a leg you will die. your leg being the engine and lypo being the interior. so what i am trying to say is that if you reduce the weight of the car you will lose HP but to move a lighter car you don't need as much. |
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#12
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Re: car diet
that makes absolutely no sense. An engine is going to produce the same exact amout of horsepower as it does, no matter what it's pulling. if you make the load it's pulling lighter, then it goes faster, yes. The hp is the same no matter if you change the weight, they are independent.
Horsepower is defined as work done over time, not having any relation to weight. Did a little searching to get the exact numbers, and it's 1 hp = 33,000lb.-ft/1 minute. The only thing that weight affects is F=ma (force=mass · acceleration). The force is constant, coming directly out of the engine at the same amount, no matter what the weight it is moving. Using F=ma, if you decrease m, acceleration has to increase to keep the constant F. This explains why lightening a car, will give faster acceleration. The engine is going to produce the same exact amount of hp no matter what. From what you are saying, if we put the b18c1 engine in an oil tanker on wheels, the hp is going to increase because the weight is greater? I think not.
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~!~David~!~ 1998 GSR, 86k miles, AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1 Ceramic Header.
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#13
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Re: car diet
Quote:
now stock v6 mustangs have about 190hp, whereas the gsr teg has ~170... not much of a difference, you would think that the mustang, being a much heavier car would be slower than the integra, but you're forgetting one thing... torque... the mustang is producing around 220 ft lbs, whereas the teg is producing.. 128? now that's a HUGE difference, and is often overlooked by "m4d tunERrZZZ" when comparing their cars to others. honestly man, do some research before you make an ass of yourself again... www.howstuffworks.com should get you started...
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ZedEx Crew Member #61988 300zx turbo 5spd. 3" mandrel exhaust, filter, afco rad, e-fan, poly engine mounts, mbc at 8.5 psi, turboxs rfl-h bov, gutted plenum, etc. blown turbo, under construction.. gt35 coming. |
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#14
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Re: car diet
every 100lbs takes 1/10 of a sec. off your acceleration; hp does not change, your time just decreases. GET IT STRAIGHT,JK.
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#15
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Re: car diet
Quote:
^^ idiot engine horsepower is not affected by the weight of ur car at all...... ur bhp will always be the same.. that amount of bhp will not be the same at the wheels though because of the weight of ur car and the loss of power through the transmission.. thats why wheel hp is always lower than engine hp |
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