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Old 03-19-2005, 04:28 PM
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Parts 4 forced induction

I was just wondering, other than lower compression pistons, what are requirements for having forced induction? Other than bolting it onto a stock motor, i plan to go either way. I have heard that the victor jr heads are a must for N/A but they will work with lower compression pistons and forced induction right? I also know that the combustion chamber should also be pretty large for having a sc or turbo. So what are some good parts to run (more like high power for the money)? Is the bbk intake manifold pretty good with this setup? Im looking at a twin turbo setup and i plan 2 run around 600-800 hp and do little street driving. I might go a little lower on the hp anywhere from 500-800 just so i can run it on the street.
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

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Old 03-19-2005, 04:32 PM
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This is hilarious. Didn't you give that guy shit for wanting an ultra high HP street car, now you have just as stupid and unrealstic goal, albeit slightly less retarded on the horsepower levels? Pure gold.

A) Stock block is weak past 500 RWHP

B) Prepare to spend around 10-12 thousand on the motor, fuel system, and ignition/computer before you even get into anything else on the car.

C) Set a realistic goal, like bolting a set of shorty headers onto your stock car.
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Old 03-19-2005, 04:37 PM
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Re: Parts 4 forced induction

You can build it for 7k, you just have to be thrifty(aka a cheap fuckin bastard like me)
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Old 03-19-2005, 04:56 PM
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Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted331
This is hilarious. Didn't you give that guy shit for wanting an ultra high HP street car, now you have just as stupid and unrealstic goal, albeit slightly less retarded on the horsepower levels? Pure gold.

A) Stock block is weak past 500 RWHP

B) Prepare to spend around 10-12 thousand on the motor, fuel system, and ignition/computer before you even get into anything else on the car.

C) Set a realistic goal, like bolting a set of shorty headers onto your stock car.
LOL not quite. This is like a sunday driver not a 1000hp street machine. I plan 2 run it just 4 shits and giggles not as my daily commuter. I didnt plan on running a stock block, and i do have a complete exhaust system 4 ur information. i dont see how 500hp is unrealistic. I just saw a guy that raced last night with 600hp and a turbo. which he drove to work everyday. I know how much parts cost, dont belittle me because im 18. Ive worked on motors most of my life. 10-12 thousand would get me a fully race motor, maybe if you were including a sc then thats reasonable.
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

1994 Escort 2DR LX - cone air, 3.8L throttle body, FUTURE SPI turbo swap
Quote:
Cops: You can race, but Im impossible to chase!
LS WHAT?
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Old 03-19-2005, 04:59 PM
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Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineUSA
You can build it for 7k, you just have to be thrifty(aka a cheap fuckin bastard like me)
thats hella funny. I wasnt the only one doggin that guy 4 wantin 1000hp or 1200 or whatever. I didnt plan on going all out, you really dont have 2 to get the power. 800+ costs more than 500-800. my budget would b around 8-10 thousand.
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

1994 Escort 2DR LX - cone air, 3.8L throttle body, FUTURE SPI turbo swap
Quote:
Cops: You can race, but Im impossible to chase!
LS WHAT?
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Old 03-19-2005, 05:27 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by tturnpaw
thats hella funny. I wasnt the only one doggin that guy 4 wantin 1000hp or 1200 or whatever. I didnt plan on going all out, you really dont have 2 to get the power. 800+ costs more than 500-800. my budget would b around 8-10 thousand.
Of course I am talking about waiting for good deals on good parts, the engine is only as strong as its weakest link, goodbye!
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Old 03-19-2005, 06:22 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineUSA
Of course I am talking about waiting for good deals on good parts, the engine is only as strong as its weakest link, goodbye!
Ya, well if i had a couple of skylines and a s trim on my stang id say about the same. I need 2 get me a full time job as soon as im out of school so i can have them!
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

1994 Escort 2DR LX - cone air, 3.8L throttle body, FUTURE SPI turbo swap
Quote:
Cops: You can race, but Im impossible to chase!
LS WHAT?
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Old 03-19-2005, 07:36 PM
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Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

You don't think you need to go all out for "500-800" HP, but yet you have no idea what it even takes to make that much power

The difference between 1000-1200 RWHP and 800 RWHP is miniscule, to be quiet honest. Bit bigger injectors, bit bigger fuel pump, bit bigger turbos if you want, and a glide instead of a C4, AOD, or a stick. 500-800 still takes an aftermarket block, good internals, some good flowing heads, a good EMS or a carb, and a big turbo kit. I have over 4300 dollars tied up in my shortblock (you know what a shortblock is, right?) and it's a "basic" dart sportsman block, with a forged eagle crank, forged eagle rods, off the shelf diamond pistons, and a new canton pan. That doesn't include heads, intake, injectors, ECU, transmission, turbos, intercooler, any shit like that. Then you need to set aside money for when shit brakes later on down the road, because it doesn't matter how well you build it, shit brakes when you make that much power. You can't build and sustain a 500-800 HP car on a part time student budget, especially when you have little to no knowledge about cars. Try bolting an SC-trim and exhaust onto your car before you try to dive into some hugely powerful project. Not only is the cost a restriction, but add to the fact that you would likely wreck the car the first time you punched WOT, shit your pants when the rear end starts to kick out at 60, and put it into a ditch.
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:59 PM
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Re: Parts 4 forced induction

I'm just gonna leave this thread alone...
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:10 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted331
You don't think you need to go all out for "500-800" HP, but yet you have no idea what it even takes to make that much power
Well i have driven a 475hp camaro that was race ready for the oval, but maybe i havent. Oh and i know slicks make the difference so ya i have driven it on the street with regular tires. Yes i know it costs a lot, but with my experience i know it doesnt take 12,000 to get 500hp. or even 650 like skyline said. i told u it was with little street driving. take it how u want it. i know how power slides the rear end around ive driven my 350hp stang IN THE SNOW. sounds stupid but i wanted to get more feel of the car. You may think that since im 18 that im a stupid ignorant kid. well think again. ive never put my car or anyone elses in a ditch. with a 347 stroker, good pistons and a nice set of heads im in the high 400hp range. add a sc 2 that combo and u have around 580-600. so u tell me its gunna cost 12,000 2 get 2 650. Skyline understood what i said. like always. maybe u should read the thread again.
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

1994 Escort 2DR LX - cone air, 3.8L throttle body, FUTURE SPI turbo swap
Quote:
Cops: You can race, but Im impossible to chase!
LS WHAT?
Reply With Quote
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:21 PM
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Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverstangs
I'm just gonna leave this thread alone...
i just dont understand y its so hard 2 ask. Budget is my problem is it not? I asked for specific internals for turbos. I have built an engine from a bare block so maybe this guy shouldnt judge me. Whether i end up in a ditch or not is also my problem. Believe it or not right now im building an engine at school for this car. but i want to start a street/strip engine pretty soon. so other than reading up on it some more, is anyone willing to help (which is what this forum is 4) with a forced induction question? I dont have experience with forced induction, only na applications. so thats why i ask. like everyone else does.
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

1994 Escort 2DR LX - cone air, 3.8L throttle body, FUTURE SPI turbo swap
Quote:
Cops: You can race, but Im impossible to chase!
LS WHAT?
Reply With Quote
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:31 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by tturnpaw
i just dont understand y its so hard 2 ask..

It's not hard to asked but it has been answered before..........


oh and I didn't judge anyone The SEARCH FEATURE works wonders...
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:42 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverstangs
It's not hard to asked but it has been answered before..........


oh and I didn't judge anyone The SEARCH FEATURE works wonders...
sorry i meant boosted. I was searching for like personal experience. thats all. and i have only been a member since jan. so i havent ever seen this.
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1982 Mustang GT- roller motor x303 cam, GT40s, MAC/Spintech exhaust MSD ignition, Edelbrock Carb, Ford Racing roller rockers

1994 Escort 2DR LX - cone air, 3.8L throttle body, FUTURE SPI turbo swap
Quote:
Cops: You can race, but Im impossible to chase!
LS WHAT?
Reply With Quote
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:52 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by tturnpaw
i just dont understand y its so hard 2 ask. Budget is my problem is it not? I asked for specific internals for turbos. I have built an engine from a bare block so maybe this guy shouldnt judge me. Whether i end up in a ditch or not is also my problem. Believe it or not right now im building an engine at school for this car. but i want to start a street/strip engine pretty soon. so other than reading up on it some more, is anyone willing to help (which is what this forum is 4) with a forced induction question? I dont have experience with forced induction, only na applications. so thats why i ask. like everyone else does.
You've built an engine before, and you're building an engine for the car right now. Super, now you might as well throw that big hunk of iron in the garbage for your pipe dream because:
  • Block is too weak
  • Crank is too weak
  • Rods are too weak
  • Tolerances are probably crap.

I'll start you off with the basics. Anything past 500-550 RWHP on a stock 302 block and you're on borrowed time. A mexican or sportsman block is a decent upgrade, but past 650-700 RWHP that is borderline as well. Enter the realm of high dollar aftermarket blocks. You have a few choices. A4, R302, Dart, Man-O-War. A4 is an SVO block and no longer produced, but you can find them used for around 1200-1500 dollars, plus machine work. R302 is the newer equivalent of A4's, and run around 1800 + machining. Dart sportsman blocks are around 1800, Dart iron eagles are around 2200. Man-O-War is in the 2200-2500 range depending on deck heights, etc. My Dart Sportsman needed a finish bore and hone, mains were line honed, and cam journals needed a line hone. Ran a little over 2100 for block + machining. You need a forged crank, perferably zero/neutral/internal/whatever you want to call it balance, forged rods, and forged 2618 pistons, no high silicone SRP crap. You need an aftermarket oil pan for your aftermarket oil pan.

In general, you need money. A hokey, home-built, stock block jalopy is not going to take 800 horsepower for an instant, so throw out that notion right now. Call a good engine builder, have them build you a nice and expensive shortblock. Call cammotion and get a custom cam ground, then call up TEA and get your heads. Then after you've spent in the neighbourhood of 9 grand, you can start to think about your fuel system, ECU, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, other safety stuff, heck, you might even squeeze time in there to figure out your turbos.
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Old 03-20-2005, 02:07 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Parts 4 forced induction

Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted331
You've built an engine before, and you're building an engine for the car right now. Super, now you might as well throw that big hunk of iron in the garbage for your pipe dream because:
  • Block is too weak
  • Crank is too weak
  • Rods are too weak
  • Tolerances are probably crap.

I'll start you off with the basics. Anything past 500-550 RWHP on a stock 302 block and you're on borrowed time. A mexican or sportsman block is a decent upgrade, but past 650-700 RWHP that is borderline as well. Enter the realm of high dollar aftermarket blocks. You have a few choices. A4, R302, Dart, Man-O-War. A4 is an SVO block and no longer produced, but you can find them used for around 1200-1500 dollars, plus machine work. R302 is the newer equivalent of A4's, and run around 1800 + machining. Dart sportsman blocks are around 1800, Dart iron eagles are around 2200. Man-O-War is in the 2200-2500 range depending on deck heights, etc. My Dart Sportsman needed a finish bore and hone, mains were line honed, and cam journals needed a line hone. Ran a little over 2100 for block + machining. You need a forged crank, perferably zero/neutral/internal/whatever you want to call it balance, forged rods, and forged 2618 pistons, no high silicone SRP crap. You need an aftermarket oil pan for your aftermarket oil pan.

In general, you need money. A hokey, home-built, stock block jalopy is not going to take 800 horsepower for an instant, so throw out that notion right now. Call a good engine builder, have them build you a nice and expensive shortblock. Call cammotion and get a custom cam ground, then call up TEA and get your heads. Then after you've spent in the neighbourhood of 9 grand, you can start to think about your fuel system, ECU, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, other safety stuff, heck, you might even squeeze time in there to figure out your turbos.
Boosted, layin it out for the masses He is absolutely right, power does not come cheap, wait reliable power does not come cheap.

If you can find an early 351w that will meet your power goals. I know plenty of guys running 700rwhp on those blocks for a few seasons, as long they are seasoned, which most should be because of there age, you are good to go.

I do not put a lot of faith in custom cams, that is my take on cams. I have done plenty of research on the subject, and I feel its a myth, hence me going with a F303.
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