timing belt/junkyard head and valves

[edsel]

1988 escort, 1.9. car died on freeway. got it home and found that the timing belt is not turning but the crank is when i attempt to start the car. ok. tried to turn the cam with a wrench but it will not budge. so now i am going to remove and check the timing belt. it appears that either the teeth at belt where it goes around the crank is stripped and that the cam has siezed? ok, the junk yard sells the heads and valve set up for under fifty dollars. what heads/valve setup, from what engines, will fit my engine if in fact the cam is seized. thanks edsel...

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by edsel

1988 escort, 1.9. car died on freeway. got it home and found that the timing belt is not turning but the crank is when i attempt to start the car. ok. tried to turn the cam with a wrench but it will not budge. so now i am going to remove and check the timing belt. and that the cam has siezed? ok, the junk yard sells the heads and valve set up for under fifty dollars. what heads/valve setup, from what engines, will fit my engine if in fact the cam is seized. thanks edsel...

"it appears that either the teeth at belt where it goes around the crank is stripped"
I'll bet you a dollar to a doughnut you are right: the belt is stripped.
When the belts get age/mileage on them they loose some of their tension. It only takes one tooth to strip, and from there it becomes a domino effect.
You are going to replace the belt in any case, just cut it and determine if that is the cause. The cam is very hard to turn, and even harder when going against the engine compression. Remove the plugs.

[UnexplodedCow]

If you do end up getting a head from a junkyard, have it checked for cracks from a machine shop, and have it milled slightly to take care of any imperfections. Also, take the head off and check the pistons. The engine should be non-interference, but check and see if you didn't bend a valve or crack a piston.

[edsel]

Originally Posted by A. Souphound

"it appears that either the teeth at belt where it goes around the crank is stripped"
I'll bet you a dollar to a doughnut you are right: the belt is stripped.
When the belts get age/mileage on them they loose some of their tension. It only takes one tooth to strip, and from there it becomes a domino effect.
You are going to replace the belt in any case, just cut it and determine if that is the cause. The cam is very hard to turn, and even harder when going against the engine compression. Remove the plugs.

thanks souphound, your right!!! cut the belt and found the teeth around the crank all stripped. pulled two sparkplugs and the cam turned no problem. ok now how do i remove the lower crankshaft pulleys? it appear s to be a real tight fit and i am unable to get a socket on the bolt/nut? is there trick? do i lower the motor? need a clue to get this back together. thanks again edsel...

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by edsel

thanks souphound, your right!!! cut the belt and found the teeth around the crank all stripped. pulled two sparkplugs and the cam turned no problem. ok now how do i remove the lower crankshaft pulleys? it appear s to be a real tight fit and i am unable to get a socket on the bolt/nut? is there trick? do i lower the motor? need a clue to get this back together. thanks again edsel...

That is good news! I know you are relieved it isn't more serious.

On the 88' you can hardly get your finger between the crankshaft sprocket and the frame. I bought a tool made special for removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt. When you get the bolt loose the sprocket has room to remove it as it drops straight down. If I remember right, the special tool was about $25 in 1988 or 1989, but you may be able to borrow one from a mechanic/garage.
Here on the forum we have some good tips on replacing the timing belt if you haven't done it before. Just let us know if you need some help.
All the best,

[edsel]

hey Souphound yeah i need all the help i can get. please show me where the info regarding replacing the timing chain. im half way there with the chain off. can i get the tool for the crank pulley at autozone or where ever? any advice will much appreciated. thanks edsel...

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by edsel

hey Souphound yeah i need all the help i can get. please show me where the info regarding replacing the timing chain. im half way there with the chain off. can i get the tool for the crank pulley at autozone or where ever? any advice will much appreciated. thanks edsel...

The tool I have is called a "Crankshaft Hub Bolt Wrench", Manufacturer is KD Tools. P/N KD3255 (19MM on one end, 1/2" sq. drive on the other end). KD Tools is a popular 'specialty tool' manufacturer and handled by most Auto parts, give them a call.

I suggest while you are changing the timing belt, you also change the waterpump. (Changing the waterpump now, could save you doing the whole job again.) A new waterpump cost is about $27 at Advance Auto parts.

ON the car:
Remove the Pwr Steering and Alt. Belts. If you decide to change the waterpump remove the alternator and alternator bracket.
Disconnect the (-) battery cable.
Remove the starter.

Let me know when you have the 'wrench' and if you are going to change the waterpump, if you are, we can step through that process as well.
The Crankshaft and Cam are no longer 'in time' so let me know if you have experience in re-timing the two. I will need to know this in order to know the level of detail I need to give you..O.K.?

[edsel]

Originally Posted by A. Souphound

The tool I have is called a "Crankshaft Hub Bolt Wrench", Manufacturer is KD Tools. P/N KD3255 (19MM on one end, 1/2" sq. drive on the other end). KD Tools is a popular 'specialty tool' manufacturer and handled by most Auto parts, give them a call.

I suggest while you are changing the timing belt, you also change the waterpump. (Changing the waterpump now, could save you doing the whole job again.) A new waterpump cost is about $27 at Advance Auto parts.

ON the car:
Remove the Pwr Steering and Alt. Belts. If you decide to change the waterpump remove the alternator and alternator bracket.
Disconnect the (-) battery cable.
Remove the starter.

Let me know when you have the 'wrench' and if you are going to change the waterpump, if you are, we can step through that process as well.
The Crankshaft and Cam are no longer 'in time' so let me know if you have experience in re-timing the two. I will need to know this in order to know the level of detail I need to give you..O.K.?

souphound i know i'll regret later but i only going to do the timing belt. ok i went to several parts stores but no one carries kd tools; but thats ok. took out my power drill and bore a hole through the wheel well and there it is the pulley ready for a wrench. tomorrow i will borrow my buddies compressor and air ratchet. i do need help with the process of putting the belt back on right and retiming the crank and the valves correctly so it is right when done... thanks again for your help and insight. edsel...

[Deffcon_1]

I have a 1994 Escort that i need to replace the timeing belt on. I have the pulley off and access to the belt gears i just need to know how to put it on and time it correctly. on my 94 the pulley came off easy if you just take the tire off, gives plenty of work room then. thanks for the help.

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by edsel

souphound i know i'll regret later but i only going to do the timing belt. ok i went to several parts stores but no one carries kd tools; but thats ok. took out my power drill and bore a hole through the wheel well and there it is the pulley ready for a wrench. tomorrow i will borrow my buddies compressor and air ratchet. i do need help with the process of putting the belt back on right and retiming the crank and the valves correctly so it is right when done... thanks again for your help and insight. edsel...

edsel,

Hey, good for you...maybe some of the other guys can use your tip!
Since you aren't going to change the waterpump, removing the alternator is not required, just remove the Alt. and Pwr Steering pump belts.
1. Disconnect the battery (-) ground strap.
2. Remove the sparkplugs.
3. Remove the starter.
4. Rotate the engine by hand until #1 cylinder is on TDC compression stroke
5. Look at timing mark on crankshaft sprocket and the timing belt cover.
they should be aligned. (The largest mark on the cover).
6. Rotate the camshaft until the timing mark on the head (see through the sprocket window) is aligned with the pointer on the camshaft sprocket. (At 12:oclock)
7. The crankshaft sprocket keyway should be at 12:oclock, the camshaft keyway at 6:oclock.
8. If everything is lined up, wedge a screwdriver in the starter ring gear to lock the crankshaft.
9. Start the new timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket and thread the belt counterclockwise up to the camshaft sprocket keeping the belt as tight as possible (no slack on the front side of the belt (toward front of car)).
10. I use nylon zip-ties to secure the belt to the cam sprocket.
11. Loosen the idler pulley tensioner bar and pry it in the loosening direction and tighten one of the bolts. Continue to thread the belt around the idler and over the waterpump sprocket.
12. Torque the timing belt by putting a wrench on the camshaft sprocket big nut counterclockwise (approx. 30 ft. lbs) while hold the tension on the wrench release the idler pulley bar and let it snap up against the belt. Tighten one of the bolts.
13. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten it to approx. 90 ft/lbs.
14. Remove the screwdriver from the starter area. and rotate the engine at least two revolutions and stop at the timing marks. Verify both the crankshaft and camshaft marks are aligned.
15. Tighten the other idler pulley tension bar bolt.
16. Reinstall the starter, the ground cable, timing belt cover and sparkplugs.
Crank er up.

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by Deffcon_1

I have a 1994 Escort that i need to replace the timeing belt on. I have the pulley off and access to the belt gears i just need to know how to put it on and time it correctly. on my 94 the pulley came off easy if you just take the tire off, gives plenty of work room then. thanks for the help.

Deffcon,
You can follow the guide provided to Edsel, there are slight differences in the 94 as you have indicated with the pulley.
I'm going by memory (which isn't very good at times) the timing marks are on the engine, and not the timing belt cover. And it's not necessary to 'torque' the timing belt as I described. The idler tension is supposed to take care of that when it 'snaps' in place. (Although I personally torque or hold tension on all timing belts regardless of year.)
Be glad to help if I can.

[edsel]

i am a little confused with the camshaft pointer? is it the triangular pointer on the camshaft sproket and is it pointing up at 12 oclolck or does it point down at 6 oclock towards the crankshaft?

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by edsel

i am a little confused with the camshaft pointer? is it the triangular pointer on the camshaft sproket and is it pointing up at 12 oclolck or does it point down at 6 oclock towards the crankshaft?

Edsel,
Camshaft pointer pointing up toward 12:oclock. When at 12:oclock you will see a timing mark or dot on the Cylinder head when you look through the 'window' in the plastic back cover... line them up. Pointer will be in the middle of the window.
Crankshaft mark is also at 12:oclock. Slip the plastic cover on and see that the crankshaft timing mark lines up with the largest line on the cover (TDC)

[edsel]

thanks souphound but i want to get this right now. i do not see the mark on the head however the arrow in the camsproket is straitup. the timing mark on the crank when i put the timing cover on is lined up. will this work? i will again go and look for the timing mark on the head for the camsproket.

[A. Souphound]

Originally Posted by edsel

thanks souphound but i want to get this right now. i do not see the mark on the head however the arrow in the camsproket is straitup. the timing mark on the crank when i put the timing cover on is lined up. will this work? i will again go and look for the timing mark on the head for the camsproket.

Did you see the 'window' I was talking about? If you do, put the pointer in the middle of the window. If the pointer is in the middle of the window you are O.K.