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#1
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Oil weight, Valve cover change...
I recently bought my ex's 97 SC2. It has 76,000 miles. She almost ran it into the ground. During a minor flood, it got water in the interior, not in the engine though. I changed out the carpet and cleaned out the interior. I just changed the valve cover gasket yesterday cause the 1 & 2 plugs were swimming. I used the info from here to help. The car would start, run ok, maybe idle a little high, but then wouldn't turn over again for couple of hours.
Question 1: How long do I have to wait before I can drive the car? I used a Fel-Pro rubber Gasket and thin layers of Permatex blue RTV. The RTV info said it fully cured in 24 hrs. Do I have to wait that long? Question 2: When I got the car it had almost no oil. (And was leaking from the valve cover) I, without checking like an idiot, used 10w30. Yesterday, I noticed the oil cap was cracked and that It said to use 5w30. Other than changing the oil, filter,and cap, do I need to do anything else at this point? I've changed the PCV valve and will change the plugs and wires this weekend. The car does just need a alot of TLC. I thank you in advance for the input. |
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#2
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1. I heard some RTV companies actually recommend that you drive the car after applied but not all do. Also, i think you need to disconnect your battery again for 15 seconds or so and reconnect to reset the computer. When you remove the pcv valve from the cover, the computer won't let the car start when reconnected again for a safety measure. I had this problem when i changed my gasket a few months ago and thought it was the battery but sierrap15 said this as one of the options (cant remember if this is EXACTLY was he said, but i know it is something along those lines).
2. I have used 10-w30 ever since i bought mine. Most people use 10w30 in the winter i believe for their saturns but i don't know that much about oil. It's good there wasn't a lot left since it isn't good to mix oil types. the pcv valve you changed should have been a saturn part; people will tell you long stories of problems with the replacements from autozone and such. get ngk plugs too. |
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#3
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Re: Oil weight, Valve cover change...
5W-30 for winter, 10W-30 for summer. get both the PCV valve and oil cap from a saturn dealership. do not but the Saturn brand oil filter (its a FRAM, FRAMs don't clean worth crap)
the high idle maybe - 1.ECT 2.sticking EGR 3.sticking IAC no start when warm maybe 1. CPS(they then to fail when warm first, you would have no spark) 2. the common 97 fuel pump problem(see below) 3. one of the above three(unlikey) the 97 fuel pump had a problem with retaining pressure after shut-down, search saturnfans.com for more info. as for reseting the computer, the computer "learns" the condisions of the motor(aka, fuel flow, spark power, sensor range, poor airflow, ect) and acts accordingly, its called adaptive stradigy(SP?). if you perfrom any major work, it may affect what the computer expects to see, and therefor, runs poorly after the repair, until the computer learns the changes. some times, this will even cause a no start after the repair. reseting the computer speeds up the relearning process. although, i really don't see how changing a valve cover can effect the computer that much, it did happen to me last summer. also contine to watch the rate of oil loss and please report back! |
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#4
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Re: Oil weight, Valve cover change...
Thanks for the info guys. I did wait more than 24 hrs to run it. It started up fine, idled better, but I think still slightly high. After the test drive though, it wouldn't turn over again. It cranks, but I have mash the gas pedal down to get it almost turn, but it doesnt't, like it's not getting enough fuel, but then it smells like gas. I'll check the suggested stuff, especially the fuel pump. Oh, and i also have to redo the gasket. It leaked on the side by the EGR. When I put the gasket on the valve cover the first time, there seemed to be a tiny amount of slack. Is that normal?
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#5
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97 sc2
Replaced the ECTS, that fixed the hot start problem I was having. Now the car is running warm. Just replaced the thermostat. I got tiny droplets of antifreeze being kicked of the serpentine belt. New thermo isn't leaking and hoses seem fine. I think it may be the waterpump. How hard is it ti get to and change?
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#6
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Re: Oil weight, Valve cover change...
its in a pretty tight spot, forget torque specs unless you have some crowfoot sockets.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24144 |
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#7
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Re: Oil weight, Valve cover change...
Torque specs? Who uses torque specs these days?
HAHA.... (jk) |
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#8
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Re: Re: Oil weight, Valve cover change...
Quote:
5/16 inch bolt=2 fingers and 1 thumb on ratchet (1/4 inch drive) 3/8 inch bolt=2 fingers and 1 thumb on ratchet (3/8 inch drive) 7/16 inch bolt=3 fingers and 1 thumb on ratchet (3/8 inch drive) 1/2 inch bolt=4 fingers and 1 thumb on ratchet (3/8 inch drive) Sorry no metric conversion available at this time
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