90 old cutlass ciera audio??

[mike5721947]

well im wondering what would be a good system to put into this car (its a midsize sedan) and has 3 1/2" speakers in dash and 6x9" in rear window ledge. i am wondering if i upgrade the speakers to better ones should i pull out the wires and install new larger wires or leave them? also am wondering about an allround subwoofer for normal music listening (no turning it up thumping down the street just proper bass for the song) i am thinking a 10" but dont really know and want to know what would be better to use a sealed box or ported for how i am looking at using it? also what is a good amp to run the sub and do i need a amp for the speakers or not? i am in need of an allround head unit that has to play cd's (i hate the am/fm radio in it righ now, not even tape) but am wondering if i can get one that will fit the car not just look aucward with the older car, it also hopefully wont need to have a huge backing plate to fill in the area around it (its a large opening about 3-4x6-7" opening)

im sorry for all the questions but am not really technical with subwoofers and newer systems and speakers. (never thought i would be saying that at 16!!)

[dice daniels]

They make 1 1/2 , two and three din decks which are 2 and 3 times the size from top to botom as a normal sized deck. One should fill the space just fine. They also make some dash kits for about 20 or so bucks that fit a normal deck and have a little cubby that fills the rest of the space. Some of them even have a space for a eq. Lots of choices anymore. Look up dash kits in a search and you'll find something.

You should'nt have to replace the stock speaker wires that are there. Just buy a wireing harness adapter and use the stock harness. about 5-7 bucks.

Alpine makes great sq equipment. so does Infinity and polk. 1 ten inch or twelve inch sub is perfect for a good sounding system. I'd recomend just shopping around at local car audio dealerships and finding something you like. Bring your favorite cd and listen to it in their displays. Find something that sounds good to you. Just remember that if it's realy cheaply priced it's probably cheaply made. Most of the time you get what you pay for.

[bumpinstang77]

check out some of pioneer's head units. They have one that fits the HUGE GM opening.... also a lot of the installation kits look good now a days if you wanted to go single DIN. As far as you speaker replacements go 3.5's aren't gunna do much for ya..... Is there space for a 6.5" in the door? A good component set could be used and you won't need rear fill. As far as subs go.... for just a little bump and SQ check out RE's REline www.reaudio.com also look at their SE line. Check out incriminator's 187 and Li lines www.incriminatoraudio.com Ascendant's Atlas line www.ascendantaudio.com Adire is revamping their lineup right now for all u ppl who will wonder why I'm not reccomending them.... hit up djdilliodon on AIM about components tell him your budget and what your looking for and he'll get you set up he's an authorized CDT dealer. I don't know what your budget is..... what do you have to work with?..... also I'd suggest getting a 15" sub becuase its not much more then a 10 or 12 but you can get a lot louder with it for your future bass cravings once you get used to having some bass.

[mike5721947]

what about the typhoon subwoofer model #'s KFCW3009 (12")
KFC-W2509 (10")
are they good? (can get the 10" for $100 (cnd) in a ported box at A&B sound)

[bumpinstang77]

That's kenwood right?......kenwood subs suck ass

[mike5721947]

well i will be wanting to use 3.5" speakers up front (stock ones in dash) and maybe mounting some in the front doors but i dont know till i go down to the coast this spring break,(the car is down there at my father's house) my main concern is the depth and the window mechanisim (power windows) so dont know if i can put them in. if i can what are some good grills to put on a ten inch sub and 5-6" round type speakers (hopefully grey and close to the stock look)

but why do kenwood subwoofers suck? what about there speakers?


what about the Rockford Fosgate P112S4 Punch 12" and P110S4 10"? both are under $150.
12"
WebID: 10040586
Mfr. Part Number: P112S4
Band Pass Volume Info Not Available
Basket Material Stamped Steel
Binding Posts Spring Loaded Compression
Cone Material Parabolic Polypropylene
Frequency Response 32Hz
Impedance 4 Ohms
Magnet Weight 1.1 kg
Mounting Depth 5.6"
Ported Box Volume 1.25 Cu. Ft.
Power Handling Max 300 Watts
Power Handling Nominal 150 Watts
Product Warranty 1 Year Limited
Recommended For Band Pass Yes
Recommended For Ported Yes
Recommended For Sealed Yes
Sealed Box Volume 0.85 Cu. Ft.
Sensitivity 87.5dB
Surround Material Foam
Voice Coil Size 1.5"
Woofer Size 12"
FEATURES:
4 Ohm SVS subwoofer with parabolic polypropylene cone.
Linear Spider
1" Excursion
Removable Motor Cover
8 AWG Compression Terminals
Optimized for small sealed enclosures.

10"
WebID: 10040582
Mfr. Part Number: P110S4
Band Pass Volume Info Not Available
Basket Material Stamped Steel
Binding Posts Spring Loaded Compression
Cone Material Parabolic Polypropylene
Frequency Response 35Hz
Impedance 4 Ohms
Magnet Weight 1.1 kg
Mounting Depth 5.2"
Ported Box Volume 1 Cu. Ft.
Power Handling Max 300 Watts
Power Handling Nominal 150 Watts
Product Warranty 1 Year Limited
Recommended For Band Pass Yes
Recommended For Ported Yes
Recommended For Sealed Yes
Sealed Box Volume 0.65 Cu. Ft.
Sensitivity 85.5dB
Surround Material Foam
Voice Coil Size 1.5"
Woofer Size 10"
FEATURES:
4 Ohm SVS subwoofer with parabolic polypropylene cone.
Linear Spider
1" Excursion
Removable Motor Cover
8 AWG Compression Terminals
Optimized for small sealed enclosures.

ive have asked around on other forums and the rockford 10" subs are good.
also whats a good amp to go with either of these subs?


maybe this one
MTX RT251D
WebID: 10027465
Mfr. Part Number: RT251D
# Of Channels 1
1 OHM Output Power - Full Range Not Applicable
14.4V Dynamic Power At 2 Ohms 250 Watts
2 OHM Output Power - Full Range 250 Watts
4 OHM Output Power - Full Range 125 Watts
Bass Boost Yes
Bridgeable No
Bridged Power At 2 OHMS - Full Range 250 Watts
Bridged Power At 4 OHMS - Full Range 125 Watts
External Bass Control Capable No
Fuse Rating (Amps) 25 Amps
High Pass Filter No
Included In Box Speaker Harness, Manual
Input Voltage 8V RMS
Low Pass Filter 18dB/Octave @ 85Hz
Mosfet Switching Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Product Dimensions 20 x 24.7 x 5.3 cm
Product Weight 3 kg
Protection Indicator No
RCA Inputs (#Pairs) 1
RCA Outputs (#Pairs) 1
Screw Type Terminals Yes
Signal to Noise Ratio 100dB
Smart Engage Turn-On Yes
Speaker LVL Inputs Yes
Total Max Power 250 Watts
Tri-Mode Capable No
Warranty 1 Year Parts & Labour
FEATURES:
Heavy Duty Nickel Plated Terminal Block Type Connectors
Smart-Engage Auto-Turn On For Easy Integration With Factory Head Units
Adjustable Input Sensitivity
Regulated PWM Mosfet Switching Power Supply
High Powered Transformers
Buffered Isolated Output For Daisy Chaining Multiple Amplifiers
Pure N-Channel Design
Intelligent Surface Mount Technology
Real-Time Computerized Protection Circuit
Anti-Shock PCB Mounting Design
Acoustically Seamless Turn-On/Turn-Off
Unique Rubber Insulated Iso-Feet
Speaker And Low Level Inputs
Colour Coded Wire Harness For Speaker Level Input Installation
Built-In 18dB/Octave LP Crossover @ 85Hz
250 Watts x 1 Into 2ohm
125 Watts x 1 Into 4ohm

[bumpinstang77]

www.reaudio.com www.incriminatoraudio.com www.adireaudio.com www.ascendantaudio.com www.stereointegrity.com www.soundsplinter.com www.edesignaudio.com (amps) www.cdtaudio.com

[mike5721947]

whats really better, a sealed box or ported? probly for single or dual 10's. what should i look at in a well made box (might just get one used)

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by mike5721947

whats really better, a sealed box or ported? probly for single or dual 10's. what should i look at in a well made box (might just get one used)

It's depedant on your tastes of music, sub design, and vehicle. A properly ported box usually seems to hit a little lower while sealed is usually more punchy. Sealeds are the easiest to work with if you are doing it yourself.

If you do not want to sacrifice a lot of space, I'd look into Directed Audio. Anything in their Studio or CompX line is awsome. Their new SX line seems real nice too but I haven't messed with them too much yet since they've just be released. They were a crowd pleaser at the SEMA show. You can see the new stuff at www.directed.com but will have to do a search for the others because they are closing them out. It would be a great way to save some $$ because the prices are about 1/4 of what they once were.

[mike5721947]

well im wanting to get a cmplete system for around $500 cnd hopefully all from www.absound.ca and futureshop.ca (the 2 stores near me) im fine with having to install this all by myself. it needs to be 3.5" (2) up front to install into the dash properly and 6x9" (2) in rear. will probly be going with one or two 10" subwoofer but am open to all (nothing over 12") and probly will be going sealed box for simplicity. the speakers dont have to look good (all having covers for stock look and for safety (i still will be using my trunk for hauling things) i just want a system that will be equal or just over my stock system but can play cd's (only has am/fm radio right now) also please tell me things to look out for in building a sealed box for the sub(s).

[mike5721947]

will these work together?
MTX RT1004 10"
WebID: 10027462
Mfr. Part Number: RT1004
Basket Material Steel
Binding Posts Nickel Plated
Cone Material Poly
Frequency Response 34.7 - 150Hz
Impedance 4 Ohms
Magnet Weight 850 g
Mounting Depth 4 5/8"
Power Handling Max 200 Watts
Power Handling Nominal 200 Watts
Product Warranty 1 Year Parts & Labour
Recommended For Band Pass Yes
Recommended For Ported Yes
Recommended For Sealed Yes
Sensitivity 87.9dB
Surround Material Foam
Voice Coil Size 1.5"

and

Road Thunder 202 2-Channel Amplifier (www.mtx.com said it would but want to make sure)
WebID: 10027235
Mfr. Part Number: RT202
# Of Channels 2
1 OHM Output Power - Full Range Not Applicable
14.4V Dynamic Power At 2 Ohms 200 Watts
2 OHM Output Power - Full Range 200 Watts
4 OHM Output Power - Full Range 150 Watts
Bass Boost No
Bridgeable Yes
Bridged Power At 2 OHMS - Full Range Yes
Bridged Power At 4 OHMS - Full Range 200 Watts
External Bass Control Capable No
Fuse Rating (Amps) 20 Amps
High Pass Filter Yes
Included In Box Manual
Input Voltage 14.4 Volts
Low Pass Filter 18 dB @ 85 Hz
Mosfet Switching Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Product Dimensions 20.2 x 24.7 x 5.3 cm
Product Weight 3.2 kg
Protection Indicator Yes
RCA Inputs (#Pairs) 1
RCA Outputs (#Pairs) 1
Screw Type Terminals Yes
Signal to Noise Ratio 100dB
Smart Engage Turn-On Yes
Speaker LVL Inputs Yes
Total Max Power 200 Watts
Tri-Mode Capable No
Warranty 1 Year Parts & Labour

Other features include a variable gain control and defeatable 18dB/octave crossover at 85 Hz, which is selectable for Hi Pass or Low Pass operation.
FEATURES:
Heavy duty nickel plated terminal block type connectors
Smart-Engage auto-turn on for easy integration with factory head units
Adjustable input sensitivity, bridgeable multi-channel circuit design
Regulated PWM Mosfet switching power supply, high powered transformers, buffered isolated output for daisy chaining multiple amplifiers, Pure N-channel design, intelligent surface mount technology
Class A 100% discrete driver circuit topology, real-time computerized protection circuit, anti-shock PCB mounting design
Acoustically seamless turn-on/turn-off, unique rubber insulated Iso-Feet, speaker and low level inputs
Color coded wire harness for speaker level input installation, built-in 18dB/octave HP/LP crossover 85Hz, 50 watts x 2 into a 4ohm, 100 watts x 2 into 2ohm, 200 watts bridged into 4ohm, frequency response 20-20,000Hz +/- .25db

[dice daniels]

Yea they will work together but you may want a little more power than that. I would look into a sub that handles around 250w rms 500w peak if I were just wanting sq. I dont think you will be happy with this setup. check out (www.newsales.com) and look at the subs they carry if you are on a budget. If you find a sub you want to look into type the model of it in your surch bar and you will find better prices for it at other sites. I found my "american pro" subs there and I have found them for like 50 or 60 bucks a peice at other sites sence then. I get some crap by talking about them on line but everybody wants to ride with me once they hear them. My old "volfenhag" subs cost me 60 bucks a peice and they also got me lots of compliments. my american pro's handle 500 watts rms and 1000 peak. I had to run them on a 250w kicker amp for a while and they sounded realy clear and crisp. Now I have them both powered by 800 watt profile amps and they get me warnings from the popos' from time to time. So even if your subs are rated for more power than you give them you can still get realy good sound out of them. all you would need is one of them in your trunk to give you good sound quality. Same with volfenhag subs.

[mike5721947]

well im wantign to keep the amp and sub beign baught from www.futureshop.ca just for simplicity. i am wanting the amp to be cheap (under $200) but be able to use the potencial of that sub (im not going to be over powering this sub trying to get the car to thump, its going to be properly set up to work with the rest of my equipment and give proper bass)

[dice daniels]

well you should be ok then if you are just wanting even sound. The only thing I would be concerned about is being able to get enough sound from it in your trunk. But if you are just running your satalite speakers off of the deck I guess it should even out pretty nicely. Do you have any ideas for a deck yet? I would look into panasonic. They have great sound quality. And if you can find any mtx satalite speakers in your site they wouldnt be bad either. But I realy dont see too much good sq equipment on your site.for a good sound quality system you'd be looking away from mtx and looking at mb quart or infinity. For what you are shooting for you may want to get something like i got for my moms car which was a set of jbl 3 way 6x9's for her rear deck a set of jbl 3.5" speakers for the dash and two sets of jbl components for the front and rear doors. It was a way nice sounding system. I didd'nt even have to run a sub. Just a 250w amp for the components and another 250w amp for the 6x9's and 3.5's. It put out plenty of bass. And it was a happy medium of low,mids and highs. She loved it.

[mike5721947]

well i will be going down to the local audio shop here in town and looking at what they have in my price range. im proby going to see about a custon box being make like this
____________________________
\ l l /
\ l ____ ____ l /
\ l _lsub l_ _lsub l_ l /
\l_l______l__l______l__l/

the part infront of subs will be covered in speaker cover fabric so the subs are hidden and inside the angled parts the amps will go with the same fabric covering the openings (allowing the amps to be cooled and hidding everything from veiw (it will look like a box in my trunk) the covers will be removable like normal fabric speaker covers to have acess to the subs and amps. the subs will probly be dual 10's and the amps are unknown at this point (depends on the tens i can get ahold of) the box i will probly build myself but i will see about getting to audio shop to cover it with carpet. i will see about getting them to wire the car up when i get it up here (its down on the coast) and get the proper wire ran everywhere (at this time i will probly be getting to sub built and having it sit in my room till i upgrade the rest of my components because at this point the car had a am/fm radio and stock worn out speakers)
the sub box in all its glory!!