2g Fuel Filter Install..

[guitarXgeek]

Ok so I've got everything ready to take to the local 1/8th mile track either tonight or tomorrow, but I decided I need to change my fuel filter prior to this because I'm sure it's been a while since it has been replaced. Anyways, after taking the battery and battery seat/mounting brackets and shit out of the car, I see the fuel filter sitting nice and pretty on the firewall. Good. After reading a bit about how much a bitch it is to replace these things, I can completely understand now. It looks like the top fitting will be a piece of cake, but the bottom fitting looks like it will give me hell before it decides to let loose. I realize you're supposed to use one wrench to hold the filter still and one to break the nut loose, but how in the hell are you supposed to access the bottom fitting? Is it possible to reach the bottom fitting from underneath the car? Any tips/suggestions about getting to the bottom fitting would be SO WONDERFULLY APPRECIATED. Also, is it neccessary to take off or loosen the filter mounting bracket? I'd like some answer as quickly as possible so I will have time to do some last minute tuning before I hit the track Thanks

-Matt

[97_3clipse]

keep the filter on the firewall then loosen the fitting, for the bottom fitting you will need to jack up the car and get under it. for the top fitting use an impact gun so you dont break the line. then once all the fitting are off , un-mount it from the firewall. and replace with the new filter.

[joemathews]

Just make sure to use line wrenches if appropriate. Don't risk breaking or stripping the fittings with inferior tools.

I hope your 14b review will finally come with your new track times, Matt!

[dsmodder]

go buy the right wrenches. first time i did this i almost stripped the bottom one. i think they are called flanged wrenches? i didnt have to go under the car at all when i did this. i just removed the charcol canister whcih was actually a bigger pain the ass than the filter. be sure that when you tighten the bottom fitting, that you press the line on the filter. youll kno what i mean when you see it. i didnt press hard enough and it leaked which made me have like 5 beers after that project rather than just hte usual 1. hope this helps.

[kjewer1]

They are called Flar Fitting wrenches or Line wrenches. They just grip more of the hex so you are less likely to strip the fitting (which cant be replaced without cutting the line, sliding on a new fitting, and reflaring it). Every DSMers should own a set.

I always get that bottom fitting from the top, you just have to get creative or get some more hands. I tend to jamb the wrench holding the filter against the firewall so that stops it. Then you just have to keep from busting that bracket. YOu can also set up the two wrenches close to each other, and in such a way that a lever or prybar can be placed between them to do the hard work.

[97GSTspyder]

i always remove my filter from above the car also, never have to go underneath of it. i realized it is impossible to even reach the filter from under the car. it's really not that big of a bitch. you took everything out that should be out, now get that top bolt off. it's a bastard to get off, believe me. after that, the bottom is easy. it's possible to get a wrench in there. just do your best to get that one loose, then take it out.

[dsmodder]

when i reinstalled the filter on my second dsm, i placed a small 2x4 under the fuel line to hold up nice and tight agaisnt the flared part of hte filter. that allowed me to hold the filter with a wrench and tighten the fitting.

[guitarXgeek]

Thanks for all the help guys! Fuel filter is on and it wasn't TOO bad However, bad news always accompanies good news, it seems. To start off, the car is still down and I did not get a chance to take it to the track last night. I did however go to the track with my friend and his 04 (i think) Jetta 1.8 Turbo AWD He even let me drive it! Best I ran was 10.3 in the 1/8th - not bad for his bone stock Jetta and my first time driving it. I also must say that it was my first time being at a track, EVER. Let me tell you, the sounds, smells, and overall atmosphere is an awesome experience and quite addicting .

Now on to the bad news... last week as I was porting the 14b turbine housing, I got a bit too exited trying to port out a what I thought was a hairline crack. This was no hairline crack. It was on the turbine inlet on the side of the wastegate path and the crack went all the way up to the wastegate flapper. Well, not paying attention and wanting to port out as much as I could, I ended up angling the grinder too much towards the wastegate path and grinding a HUGE hole through the wastegate bowl area In other words, when I turned the housing over to look at the side with the turbine exit and wastegate flapper area, I saw a large hole that extended from the flapper hole all the way to to side of the turbine housing I don't know if I described that well enough, but it's the best I can do without any pictures.

SO, I ordered a new 7cm turbine housing for the 14b and received it a couple days ago. Last night as I went to put it on, I noticed that oil had been seeping out from behind the turbine wheel where it connects to the center cartridge... oil had also been coked all in the o2 housing. It seems the oil was leaking past a seal in the center cartridge and the turbine wheel was blowing it everywhere I also noticed the smell ofo oil being burned at idle when I put the 14b on the first time. I'm not sure if this means that the turbo is blown, but I really think it's on it's last leg. It pulled so hard for being like this, though. A new turbo rebuild costs ~$300 so I think I'll be sending the 7cm housing back and just getting a brand new turbo (not sure what yet).

I honestly think I could put the housing on the 14b and run it for another month or two, but that oil seeping past the turbine wheel is NOT cool. I don't really know for sure what I'll do, but if anyone has any ideas, please let me know. I'm desparate to get the car back running as soon as possible

-Matt

[kjewer1]

That would be a bad seal, and it wont affect performance. But it wont last forever either. I think your suggestion of sending the housing back and ordering a whole turbo, or buying another used one, is the best way to go. Might as well just get an evo316g and be done with it That housing had to be close to 200 anyway. Whats another 400.

People do sometimes bollix things up when porting. The important thing to remember is that the factory got it pretty much right in the first place. It just needs a little messaging, not reinvention. And cracks are perfectly fine! Every turbine housing will crack eventually. On smaller turbos like 14Bs they probably crack the first time you get them real hot.

[guitarXgeek]

Originally Posted by 95 GSXracer

That would be a bad seal, and it wont affect performance. But it wont last forever either. I think your suggestion of sending the housing back and ordering a whole turbo, or buying another used one, is the best way to go. Might as well just get an evo316g and be done with it That housing had to be close to 200 anyway. Whats another 400.

People do sometimes bollix things up when porting. The important thing to remember is that the factory got it pretty much right in the first place. It just needs a little messaging, not reinvention. And cracks are perfectly fine! Every turbine housing will crack eventually. On smaller turbos like 14Bs they probably crack the first time you get them real hot.

Good point about the porting, but hey you live and you learn Yea I've pretty much decided to send the housing back and buy a new turbo. I doubt I'll go with any 16g though. I'll really leaning towards one of the many variations of "50 trims" out there right now. I think I'll pick up a fuel pump and some injectors while I'm at it, too

[joemathews]

Shit, sorry to hear the turbo wasn't in as good shape as we'd hoped. Like Kevin said, you should be able to keep driving the car for a while, as long as you make sure your oil level is good. If your pressure gauge dips really low, definitely shut her off and park her until the new turbo comes. I hope you at least got a chance to practice up a little bit with DSMlink and the 14b, though.

So you're leaning toward a 50 trim now? Which ones are you considering? Still thinking about the Bullseye turbos, or are you going to be buying elsewhere?

[guitarXgeek]

Originally Posted by joemathews

I hope you at least got a chance to practice up a little bit with DSMlink and the 14b, though.

Yea I did get to make a few runs/logs with the 14b and dsmlink. I didn't get too much done though, because it was creeping so bad it made tuning anything after 6000 rpms almost impossible.

Originally Posted by joemathews

So you're leaning toward a 50 trim now? Which ones are you considering? Still thinking about the Bullseye turbos, or are you going to be buying elsewhere?

I'm still really considering the Bullseye turbos, simply because the T04b cover makes things SO much easier fitment wise than the regular T04e covers. Also, they are now offering the popular "50 trim" compressor wheel inside a T04b cover, so I may end up picking that up. I guess I'm also biased towards them since the 7cm housing I bought for the 14b was also from them. They make BEAUTIFUL turbine housings, and I really wish my camera was working so I could post up some pics. Not to mention I'll probably end up getting the $220 for the turbine housing as store credit from them, so that kinda keeps me buying from them as well. They also sell T04e 57 and 60 trims, so I might get one of those. I don't really know yet

[kjewer1]

Theres a lot of talk about those turbine housings being junk. I'm not convinced that they are a viable option yet. Definitely do some more research. Also, the to4b housng fitting better isnt necessarily a good thing, it only fits betterbecause it is smaller. You can get either housing from any turbo vendor, but you rarely hear about the Bs because most vendors dont list them on thier site, very few poeple want them. Back in the days of hte mutt turbos though, the B was standard, and the E was an upgrade to it. I personally would even bother with a hybrid turbo. For a 50 trim type perfrmance I think the 6H 20g is a much better matched setup and flow is only 2 lbs less at 48. Even better if you get it with the 3" inlet housing like the one used on the red/green. Bigger housings mean more flow with less boost. Spool was 3700 rpm to 25 psi IIRC. In my opinion the best bang for hte buck street turbo out there this side of a EVO16g. When going with larger than 50 trim turbos, I still woudlnt bother with hybrids, but rather go to a full garett and enjoy all of its benefits. The only trouble is that you pretty much have to go with a tubular manifold, but the new braced SFPs just dont seem to be cracking anyway. But now I'm getting ahead of myself. If you do go with a hybid I would consider going with a SBR manifold to space the turbo out so you can run the E housing. Not worth half asing it and regretting it latter. Do it once, do it right

Also, a bad turbo seal wont bypass enough oil to lower presure noticeably in my experience. Pretty much have to watch the level.

[guitarXgeek]

Yea, I've heard a few comments about people thinking the bullseye housings are crap, but none of them have actual evidence to prove it. I don't have any facts to prove that it IS a good housing, but judging from looks, it's quite a nice piece - cast well, no deformities, etc. Oh well, it looks like I'll never get the chance to use one anyways!

Now about the B vs. E turbos, I completely agree with you. The SBR manifold would be a perfect match with a T04e cover, because as you said, it has a slightly thicker flange to act as a spacer to help with fitment of larger compressor covers. However, that's another $250 ($150 if I was able to sell my stock manifold) that I'd have to dish out. Also, what exactly are the other fitment issues with the E covers? I think I remember reading that it may have some clearance issues with the fans.

The 6H 20g is also a nice option. However, the pure fact that the 20g costs upward of $1000 (the standard 5H is $899 at Slowboy, the 6H is an extra $100, and then another $125 for the internal gate - totaling $1124 for an internally gated 20g!) and the "hybrid 50-trims" cost ~$700-800, it's hard to make the pick for the 20g (the new AGP RS60T -60-1 compressor wheel is going for $699!! Same for the RS49T - "50 trim" with T04e cover. I could pick that up and get an external gate and o2 housing for cheaper than the 6H 20g )

The evo3b16g is definitely looking like a much nicer option now that pricing comes to mind (they're going for damn cheap these days and I'd be able to reuse my SS oil feed line from the 14b). However, I just don't think it will provide the numbers that I want from it. I'm really looking for a turbo that maxes out in the 46-50 lbs/min range. I guess I could always run nitrous through it if it doesn't provide the numbers I want Lately, though, I've decided to lower my expectations out of this car a bit. Since it's my first DSM and I'm relatively new to the game with only close to a year of experience, I think the evo3b16g will keep my hands full for a LONG time. Hell, I thought the 14b pulled hard as hell

It's absolutely insane how many options I have right now. Pricing is one of the major factors, as I don't have a shitload of cash to throw around right now (but I should be receiving my tax return check here before too long ). Please guys, keep the turbo suggestions coming, I'm really going to need some help deciding!


EDIT>>> I should also add that Bullseye will only give me store credit for the housing - the full $220. I guess that limits my decision now huh It's either take the $220 towards store credit or try to sell the housing myself, take the $50 hit and just buy a damn evo3b16g. What would you ladies do?


-Matt

[kjewer1]

I'm surprised the bolt on 50 trims are that cheap, I remember them being over 1200 last time I was looking for a turbo that size. That evens up the field for sure. Whos housing does AGP use? There are only a few. Bullseye, PTE, and SBRs if I remember rightly. Its got to be cheap if AGP is selling those hybrids that cheap. Interesting.

The E wont have any issues with the fans, just the water pipe (big fuckin hammer). Even with a S cover (4" inlet 2.5" outlet) spaced way out with a SFP tunular manifold its no where near the fan.

Working with a budget sucks, and its been a while since I had to. So I tend to think about the turbos I would rather run, without a whole lot of cost consideration. I would still run the 6H 20g if I was in the position to use one, even if it was more. But I'm old fat and bald and have enough money these days to get away with that line of thinking