95 dodge intrepid is stalling

[lovinshants]

PLEASE HELP: no matter if i'm stopped, going 20, or going 60 on the highway, the oil dripping picture and the word cruise light up, then it stalls...any info?? thanks!

[theFREAKnasty82]

from what you're describing sounds like a faulty ignition switch, if your car shuts off intermittently.

[coalminer]

My 94 Intrepid is doing the same thing, after it has been running for a little while, it will miss, the cruise light will light up for a few seconds, the idle will raise up a little, and then back to normal. Sometimes it will do it so much it will stall. I have replaced the cam sensor, the crank sensor, the ignition switch and have wiggled every wire under the hood trying to find something loose. In reading on another thread about the bulkhead connector, I will check that out and see if that may be the problem. The only other thing I could think it could possible be in the computer is going bad? Anyone have any other ideas what could be going on? Thanks!!!!!

[coalminer]

And the saga continues........

I tracked down the bulkhead connector, and everything looks good there, so I went to the bone yard and got another computer, same old thing. At this point I start looking at the wires going to the computer, the first red wire I find, I put a test light on it, and when the car is running, it flickers, so Im thinking, this may be the problem, so I apply power to it, and the light stays solid, but that must be an output from the computer, as the idle changed and it sounded different. I found the allways on power lead, and it is getting steady voltage, found the ignition switched wire, and it is getting constant voltage. I found the 2 ground wires, and the computer is getting a consistant voltage. One other odd thing was the wire that I probed first, it would flicker consistantly, except when the car would act up, then it would go out for a second.

So at this point, I am totally stumped, I am looking at replacing the coil pack next, I think that there is a remote chance that could be the problem. Anyone else have any other ideas before I go nuts??????

Thanks!!!!

[theFREAKnasty82]

Originally Posted by coalminer

And the saga continues........

I tracked down the bulkhead connector, and everything looks good there, so I went to the bone yard and got another computer, same old thing. At this point I start looking at the wires going to the computer, the first red wire I find, I put a test light on it, and when the car is running, it flickers, so Im thinking, this may be the problem, so I apply power to it, and the light stays solid, but that must be an output from the computer, as the idle changed and it sounded different. I found the allways on power lead, and it is getting steady voltage, found the ignition switched wire, and it is getting constant voltage. I found the 2 ground wires, and the computer is getting a consistant voltage. One other odd thing was the wire that I probed first, it would flicker consistantly, except when the car would act up, then it would go out for a second.

So at this point, I am totally stumped, I am looking at replacing the coil pack next, I think that there is a remote chance that could be the problem. Anyone else have any other ideas before I go nuts??????

Thanks!!!!

please, never do this one thing for me, don't use a test light to check electronic components. I've fried a few computers using a test light. The test light draws too much amperage and voltage, and that burns up modules quickly. Next time, find an LED light, that much safer and best around computers. I believe you might have a fuel problem caused by a weak fuel pump. What would prove that is if you go to a shop and have them look at all your sensors on a scanner, they can tell by the long-term fuel trim, that your computer is requesting more fuel caused by high fuel trim numbers (usually over 20%). Those high number would indicate a problem with your fuel pump or some other type of possible restriction, i.e. clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pressure regulator. Give that a look first before you spend money on a coil pack that won't totally solve your problem.

[coalminer]

Hmmm, never thought about the fuel pump being something to look at. One other odd thing I forgot to mention was that when the engine is sitting there at an idle, you can hear the injectors, and when it is running normaly, they tick in perfect rythem, when it acts up, you will hear the injectors go nuts, thats when the cruise light will flicker and the idle will raise up for a couple of seconds. One more thing, if the engine is warmed up to the point where the cooling fan is on, it will cut out for a half second or so, when whatever is going on that causes the injectors to go nuts. I even went back and took the crank sensor back and got another one thinking that I may have a defective one again, but still does the same thing.

Yes, you were right about the light, I will have to look for a LED test light, I knew there was a chance of screwing something up, I was just going nuts, and figured, how much more damage could I do????? Maybe I would burn out completely what is acting up, and then would know what is going on, but it didnt work that way.

Thanks for all of you advise!!!!!

[coalminer]

Well the car is running normal again, but it was not what I thought it was, I went and bought the coil pack, and it still did the same thing. At this point I was about ready to pull my hair out (which my wife just pointed out I dont have much of.....) I figured I would unplug each of the sensors and see what happened, no difference, but when it came to unplugging the temp sensor, the normal thing happens when you do that, the cooling fan came on low, a few seconds later it went to high. Well when it would act up, the fan would go off, then turn on low, then high, so whatever was going on, was resetting everything. So knowing that the computer was getting the proper and constant voltage I started thinking, what could cause this? The only answer I could come up with is the obvious, the crank sensor, which had been replaced twice, because I thought I may have had a defective one. So I get down there and take the bolt out and start looking at the sensor and the plug, and everything looked ok, so I look in the hole and turned the engine by hand, and the flywheel looked good too, so I plugged the sensor back in and just stuck the sensor in the hole without bolting it in there. I started the engine, and guess what, it sat there and ran perfect, im like what the heck is going on?????? So im looking at the sensor and the only thing different is that when it just laying in the hole, it just is not as close to the flywheel, so I get the idea to bolt the sensor back in there only I put a washer between the sensor and the block to space it away from the flywheel. It has not acted up since!!!!!!!

The brand of the sensor was wells, I have never had any problems with wells parts before, but I wonder if I should take it back now and go to the dealer and get the Chrysler replacement part.

[theFREAKnasty82]

you know, I'm an idiot. I forgot to mention that on crank sensors, there's a paper spacer that goes on the end of the sensor. If that paper spacer is not there, you'll get false readings all the time. The washer you used will work giving it that air gap that the sensor needs to work properly. Glad you mentioned that b/c I completely forgot about the paper spacer thing.

[coalminer]

Originally Posted by theFREAKnasty82

you know, I'm an idiot. I forgot to mention that on crank sensors, there's a paper spacer that goes on the end of the sensor. If that paper spacer is not there, you'll get false readings all the time. The washer you used will work giving it that air gap that the sensor needs to work properly. Glad you mentioned that b/c I completely forgot about the paper spacer thing.

Was that paper spacer something that was suppose to come with the new sensor? I went back and looked in the box that the sensor came in, and there was nothing in there.

[theFREAKnasty82]

yes, all sensors, especially new ones, are supposed to come with that paper spacer. If it's not on there, the manufacturer either left it off or it fell off in shipping & handling.