start/stall/no start

[claws]

New to this forum. Here goes. Just got a call from the wife, jeep cherokee sport started, stalled, and will not start now. I told her to wait an hour and try again, still no start. She indicated that it was idling fine before the stall. Sounds electrical to me and I read here that the crank and cam sensors can be weak points. The Jeep only has 55k miles on it, though it has been used off-road every summer. Any ideas?
BTW, it is snowing and around 32 degrees here today. So it is a little damp outside.

[Dale Aeppli]

Originally Posted by claws

New to this forum. Here goes. Just got a call from the wife, jeep cherokee sport started, stalled, and will not start now. I told her to wait an hour and try again, still no start. She indicated that it was idling fine before the stall. Sounds electrical to me and I read here that the crank and cam sensors can be weak points. The Jeep only has 55k miles on it, though it has been used off-road every summer. Any ideas?
BTW, it is snowing and around 32 degrees here today. So it is a little damp outside.

need year make and engine. can you check for spark, both at coil and distributor. did check light come on can you hear the fuel pump relay click when you turn key on dale jeepman600@sbcglobal

[claws]

Originally Posted by Dale Aeppli

need year make and engine. can you check for spark, both at coil and distributor. did check light come on can you hear the fuel pump relay click when you turn key on dale jeepman600@sbcglobal

Year is 2000....Engine is 4.0. I'll check on the spark, check light and fuel pump relay "click" tonight. (Jeep is home and I am at work) The discription my wife gave me was that it just stopped, no stumble. That is why I'm leaning towards ignition. I drove it all weekend and it drove and idled fine......Snowing like crazy here, so may not get under the hood for a day or two.

[Dale Aeppli]

Originally Posted by claws

Year is 2000....Engine is 4.0. I'll check on the spark, check light and fuel pump relay "click" tonight. (Jeep is home and I am at work) The discription my wife gave me was that it just stopped, no stumble. That is why I'm leaning towards ignition. I drove it all weekend and it drove and idled fine......Snowing like crazy here, so may not get under the hood for a day or two.

SNOWING HERE TOO. IF YOU DON'T GET SPARK AT COIL WIRE YOU MAY HAVE A BAD CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. GIVE HOLLER AT [email protected] THAT WAY I CAN SEND INFO. IF YOU NEED DALE.

[claws]

Ended up being CPS. Dealer is charging 230.00....ouch! If it was warmer, I would recommend a DIY on this one. Now I need to replace the front pads. I'm assuming I can leave the calipers on and just compress the piston back in. If there is a trick to it, please chime in.
Also, Thanks to Dale for some great instructions....

[LethalMagnitude]

$230!! RIP OFF, I've just had mine replaced. It was around $42 for the CPS and only $50 for the mechanic to put it on. I would go to another shop.

[LethalMagnitude]

Well, I also didn't take into consideration that we may have different year models, maybe prices are different.

[claws]

Originally Posted by LethalMagnitude

$230!! RIP OFF, I've just had mine replaced. It was around $42 for the CPS and only $50 for the mechanic to put it on. I would go to another shop.

Who knows? It was a Dealer and they do over charge. But I needed the Jeep back ASAP. The part at the dealer listed for $148. The labor was $47. Figuring at least a 100% mark-up at the dealer for the part, your costs are not that far off. The final cost ended up being $207, for labor, part, tax and garage enviro fees.

Having said that, the dealer tried to convince me that the valve cover gasket needed to be replaced, the transfer case was seeping and the front pads where at 1/32 of pad left.

Being a fairly competent DIY mechanic, I could see the gouge factor/effort for what it was and chose to take care of any other issues myself. BTW, the pads had over a quarter of an inch left. Slightly more then the thickness of a dime as alluded to by the shop rep.