Revisiting an old problem

mightymoose_22 · #1 02-28-2005, 01:51 PM

The dang check engine light. It has been on for just over a year now! I need to do something about it because I will have to get a smog check later this year.
It is code 214 (Cylinder Identification Circuit).

Backup... this is a '94 Escort, 1.9.

The cam and crank sensors are new... well they were new a year ago when I started dealing with this.

For what I can tell, the engine would not even run if something was wrong with the crank sensor. I am convinced something is wrong with the circuit of the cam sensor, or even the computer, but I don't know how to troubleshoot it.

I got into Mitchell On Demand awhile back and found some useful info but it said to install a breakout box to do the troubleshooting and I have no idea what that is.

So... in short... if anyone has any information about error code 214 and how to check it out I would appreciate some input. What would also be an enormous help is some info about the wiring... if you can tell me where the wires from the cam sensor go to (so I can check for a bad wire without tearing the whole harness apart) then I may be able to solve this.

Thanks

Arnoldtheskier · #2 02-28-2005, 02:07 PM

Ok..the check engine light is on.First you have to erase the code.Have you done this?..Perhaps..and the code comes up again.IF(sounds like) the light is ALWAYS on..this is a "hard code".Best to get one of those $20($25 here..Canada/)Wally.code readers.Erase the codes..both hard and soft.THEN if indeed you can erase the code..and it keeps coming back.Yes..I would suspect the wiring or the computer.

mightymoose_22 · #3 02-28-2005, 02:30 PM

Oh yes... I am way beyond that.
It continues to reappear. Both sensors are new, codes have been cleared, everything triple checked and then some. Can't get rid of it. I just don't know where the wires disappear to inside the harness. I would like to do a simple continuity check to see if the wires are bad, but if they test good I am still at a loss. Just need some info on how to troubleshoot code 214.

As far as I can tell the only drawback is that I am losing gas mileage, so I have been able to drive it all this time. I won't pass the smog tests if the CEL is on though.

chevyn0va1 · #4 02-28-2005, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

Oh yes... I am way beyond that.
It continues to reappear. Both sensors are new, codes have been cleared, everything triple checked and then some. Can't get rid of it. I just don't know where the wires disappear to inside the harness. I would like to do a simple continuity check to see if the wires are bad, but if they test good I am still at a loss. Just need some info on how to troubleshoot code 214.

As far as I can tell the only drawback is that I am losing gas mileage, so I have been able to drive it all this time. I won't pass the smog tests if the CEL is on though.

02 sensor?

mightymoose_22 · #5 02-28-2005, 04:01 PM

I don't think the O2 sensor is even in the circuit.

The Cylinder Identification Curcuit is basically a timing device that instructs the fuel injection when to open based on cam and crank positions. The signal is either not present or is incorrect, so rather than the injectors opening in sequence they are operating in "batch mode" which I understand to mean that all injectors fire on every stroke... hence the loss of mileage.

I need to know how to test the circuit.

I do have a cheapie code reader that does various tests, but it can only go so far as to tell me there is a problem. I need to know how to isolate the problem.

chevyn0va1 · #6 02-28-2005, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

I don't think the O2 sensor is even in the circuit.

The Cylinder Identification Curcuit is basically a timing device that instructs the fuel injection when to open based on cam and crank positions. The signal is either not present or is incorrect, so rather than the injectors opening in sequence they are operating in "batch mode" which I understand to mean that all injectors fire on every stroke... hence the loss of mileage.

I need to know how to test the circuit.

I do have a cheapie code reader that does various tests, but it can only go so far as to tell me there is a problem. I need to know how to isolate the problem.

are you sure its not part of it? in another post (stalls again one) someone talks about it being apart of the fuel injection info

A. Souphound · #7 02-28-2005, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

Oh yes... I am way beyond that.
It continues to reappear. Both sensors are new, codes have been cleared, everything triple checked and then some. Can't get rid of it. I just don't know where the wires disappear to inside the harness. I would like to do a simple continuity check to see if the wires are bad, but if they test good I am still at a loss. Just need some info on how to troubleshoot code 214.

As far as I can tell the only drawback is that I am losing gas mileage, so I have been able to drive it all this time. I won't pass the smog tests if the CEL is on though.

mightymoose_22,
In order to help you troubleshoot the circuit I need to clarify a couple of things...
1. Is your 1.9L DIS?
2. When you first hooked up your scanner wasn't the first operation to verify the number of cylinders? Was this done, and was the number of cylinders flashed correct?
3. Does your scanner have the capability of clearing the codes? If not, what method was used to clear them.
4. How many wires go to the Cam & Crank Sensors, 3 or 4?

mightymoose_22 · #8 02-28-2005, 09:21 PM

Hmm..
If the D in DIS means distributorLESS, than yes.
As it happens my car applies to the dfault values of the scanner, so all I have to do is plug it in. But yes, I have verified these things.
The scanner does have the ability to clear codes, and I have tried it. The battery was also disconnected for a few weeks while I was not driving it and the code still reappeared. As for the method used with the scanner I don'r recall the specifics, but it had something to do with shutting off the scanner in midscan before it reported the codes.
I am going by memory here... I believe there ar 3 wires at the cam sensor. I will double check tomorrow while under the hood.

I am just about convinced that it is the EEC. Having replaced the cam and crank sensors, verifying timing, etc... I think the computer is just screwed up.

If you search the forum for "code 214" you will find my old post on this from a year ago that somewhat logs what I was doing at the time.

chevyn0va1 · #9 02-28-2005, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

Hmm..
If the D in DIS means distributorLESS, than yes.
As it happens my car applies to the dfault values of the scanner, so all I have to do is plug it in. But yes, I have verified these things.
The scanner does have the ability to clear codes, and I have tried it. The battery was also disconnected for a few weeks while I was not driving it and the code still reappeared. As for the method used with the scanner I don'r recall the specifics, but it had something to do with shutting off the scanner in midscan before it reported the codes.
I am going by memory here... I believe there ar 3 wires at the cam sensor. I will double check tomorrow while under the hood.

I am just about convinced that it is the EEC. Having replaced the cam and crank sensors, verifying timing, etc... I think the computer is just screwed up.

If you search the forum for "code 214" you will find my old post on this from a year ago that somewhat logs what I was doing at the time.

I had to replace my computer in my console i had almost the same symtoms but I didnt have any codes or light. 75.00 for (used) computer and labor not too bad seeing how ford couldnt figure it out either

A. Souphound · #10 03-01-2005, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

Hmm..
If the D in DIS means distributorLESS, than yes.
As it happens my car applies to the dfault values of the scanner, so all I have to do is plug it in. But yes, I have verified these things.
The scanner does have the ability to clear codes, and I have tried it. The battery was also disconnected for a few weeks while I was not driving it and the code still reappeared. As for the method used with the scanner I don'r recall the specifics, but it had something to do with shutting off the scanner in midscan before it reported the codes.
I am going by memory here... I believe there ar 3 wires at the cam sensor. I will double check tomorrow while under the hood.

I am just about convinced that it is the EEC. Having replaced the cam and crank sensors, verifying timing, etc... I think the computer is just screwed up.

If you search the forum for "code 214" you will find my old post on this from a year ago that somewhat logs what I was doing at the time.

Taking your suggestion I read the 'history' of this problem which began with an engine change. The cause of the fault could be several things, but that would be guessing. I read nothing to tell me any diagnostic voltage/resistance checks had been performed on the crank or cam sensors. I disagree with your conclusion the sensors are 'good' based on the engine running. The engine is not performing properly. I can step you through input/output checks of the sensors, and by disconnecting the sensor/s from the computer make continuity and resistance checks.
I asked about the number of wires on the CPS, generally a three wire is the Hall effect type, and four wire the Magnetic type.
I asked about the confirmation of the ID code on the scanner which is the first sequence of the KOER self test. If the code from the computer came up with the right number of cylinders, (2 indications = 4cyl. etc) we can assume the 'sync-pulse' from the computer was present.

TheStang00 · #11 03-01-2005, 11:52 AM

go to autozone and they will have a little book that tells every possible reason why that code might come up

mightymoose_22 · #12 03-01-2005, 02:14 PM

I will check out Auto Zone later today perhaps... but I have been told they don't offer code reading services in California.

As for the electrical diagnostics... that is exactly the help I am looking for. THe error code is for Cylinder Identification Circuit and I don't know what is in the circuit... no idea how to troubleshoot it.

My reasoning on the sensors is the fact that they are new. The crank sensor was replaced with the engine because the old one broke when removing it. After the CEL appeared I assumed trouble with the cam sensor and replaced it, to no avail.

I am confident the sensors are good but have no problem with testing them... just need some direction on how to do so. If it can be done with a simple voltmeter then I am all set.

My previous thought was that perhaps a wire in the harness was broken during the engine change and the circuit is broken, but I don't know where the wires go to inside the harness and don't want to tear it apart.

I am going to tinker with this car more this afternoon. I haven't done much with it in a long time. Perhaps I will discover more information, or other existing problems, that will lead to a solution.

TheStang00 · #13 03-01-2005, 02:19 PM

figures... california.... anyways an example of what i was talking about was i got the code 0411 and they pulled out this little book and it said it was the air pump, the wires leading to it, a fuse, or the air hoses were clogged. very useful, narrows it down pretty good.

A. Souphound · #14 03-01-2005, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

I will check out Auto Zone later today perhaps... but I have been told they don't offer code reading services in California.

As for the electrical diagnostics... that is exactly the help I am looking for. THe error code is for Cylinder Identification Circuit and I don't know what is in the circuit... no idea how to troubleshoot it.

My reasoning on the sensors is the fact that they are new. The crank sensor was replaced with the engine because the old one broke when removing it. After the CEL appeared I assumed trouble with the cam sensor and replaced it, to no avail.

I am confident the sensors are good but have no problem with testing them... just need some direction on how to do so. If it can be done with a simple voltmeter then I am all set.

My previous thought was that perhaps a wire in the harness was broken during the engine change and the circuit is broken, but I don't know where the wires go to inside the harness and don't want to tear it apart.

I am going to tinker with this car more this afternoon. I haven't done much with it in a long time. Perhaps I will discover more information, or other existing problems, that will lead to a solution.

mm22,
You owe me an answer on the number of wires going to the crankshaft sensor...?

In the meantime....
Disconnect the harness connector at the CPS. If, it is a 3 wire, the center terminal will be the signal, the outside terminals will be (+) and (-). With the Key Off, Engine Off, use your VOM check the ohms between the (-) terminal (in the sensor) and the sensor body should be 0 ohms. Now check resistance (ohms) between the sensor body and the engine/transmission, should be 0 ohms. You can check the camshaft sensor ground the same way. Let me know what you read. O.K.?
I have to find a wiring diagram for a 94 escort before I can tell what the 'reference voltage' from the EEC should be.

mightymoose_22 · #15 03-01-2005, 11:57 PM

OK... believe it or not, the cam sensor and crank sensor each have only 2 wires.

Wednesday I should still be able to do the same tests that you have suggested.

I actually got my hands on a wiring diagram today... it shows the sensors but is not in as much detail as I would like. I don't have the means to scan it and share it though.

Today I ran the code reader again just to see how things are since the last time a year ago... all is the same. I first cleared the codes then ran the tests... all tests check out OK, other than 214 (the cylinder ID circuit) in continuous memory. And yes, it does correctly identify that there are 4 cylinders.

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