B16A oil pump specs? suffiecient for CRVTEC

[94tegRS]

well, tore into the ol B20 today and what had happened was(not sure in what order) but the wrist pin walked to the cylinder wall, and in doing that it left only one side of the piston with any pin inside of it. the remaining part of the pin sticking outside the pins location, acted like a prybar I guess and when the crank was pushing the piston up, the pin pvots on its one-sided contact and the end sticking out puts alot of pressure down on the skirt, and it just busted the outside half of the bottom of the pin location off(luckily it got trapped in a small space in the oil pan and didng get al ground up and metal filings pumped through everywhere, almost NO metal in the oil and the rod bearings look perfect still) and I just dropped a B18C into my friends civic, and I got the B16 I pulled out for my trouble. so I got a good head/manifold/etc...

but now in the B20 I got 1 bushed rod and 1 busted piston. Im gonna contact crower tomorrow top see if they would sell me one new piston/pin/circlip combo.

Im gonna get some eagle H beam rods and new rod bearings. (might get crower econo-billet but the site lists them but it brings up no product so not sure they make em anymore.

already got a new water pump.

was just wondering about my oil pump, the B20 one is working fine but have read the non vtecs dont flow enough fo lubing the engine and running vtec.

is the B18vtec oil pump higher-volume than the B16 oil pump or will my B16's oil pump be fine?

another question is about the dist. non-vtec and VTEC engines have same distributors right. the B18C we got, the ECU threw code 98, so I put in the B16's dist and the code went away. so I have no dist from my vtec engine but I will have one form whatever car I buy to put this into which wil most likly be a integra LS or GS so I have the low freeway RPM's and a cheaper purchase price.

Im gonna get an ECU that doesnt utilize the knock sensor so I dont have to worry about that. and I got the old B16;s harness I can steal the plugs from for the vtec pressure switch and silenoid

[killah_xft]

most I can say is hook it up, and hook up an oil pressure guage on the oil pump output. start up the engine, check the oil pressure at the guage, then using the throttle cable rev the engine into vtec and keep a close eye on the oil pressure guage. it should drop 10-30PSI, that's mornal but as long as it stays within normal operating pressure (read haynes manual engine spec sheet), you're fine, if not, go buy a new oil pump. as long as there is some pressure it won't do much if any harm to the motor.

[civickiller]

b20 oil pumps are vtec oil pumps

[94tegRS]

well, I dont wanna assemble i all and then go out and drive it and.. OH SH!T I have to pull it out and apart and install a better oil pump.

and why would I use the throttle cable to rev it, that would mean i was under the hood and as far as I was informed VTEC wont engage when the wheels arnt moving. havent tried it but just what I was told.

[turboEKhatch]

B20B pump = GSR pump

I used the stock B20 pump turning 9000+ for a long while, I trust it. VTEC shouldn't engage if the car is sitting there in neutral.

[94tegRS]

just tore my damned B16 down I got and cant salvage much at all, #2 the piston was just in 50 peices but held together but any piston below the pin that should be there, wasnt. and one rod is bent in half with the pin all the way to one side, rod bolts are embedded into the block casting because the crank was hitting them, cr4anks all dinged, every piston has a crack of some sort, bent valves, windage tray has a HUGE hole in it and bolt holes are torn, pickup tube was f'd, every rod mangled, cams and followers are nice though, so are the sam caps, but every valve at the stem looks like something was eating away at it, every one, the stem isnt smooth its all pitted and narrower.