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1995 300HP Prelude
Hi i know that this topic has been betten to death and i have done a search and i am not finding what i want.
I would like to know what i would need to get a 96 Prelude VTEC to 300HP. i am looking to rebuild the engine so if things like pistons and rods would help please list. thanx in advance for all you help. Hellbringer |
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#2
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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My 1st Gen Prelude Mods: Turbonics Turbo, NOS, MSD, DFI ECU
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#3
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
i HATE nos so is there another way to get the HP
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#4
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Re: Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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put stickers all over your car, buy a giant aluminum wing, throw a bunch of white neon lights under it, cut the springs, weld on a universal muffler, buy some spinner hubcaps (lol), and best of all.... an unpainted body kit should get you at least 50 more horsies.
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#5
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ok since these jerk-ohs won't help much, maybe i can be of some help. it all really depends on how much you're willing to spend. if you want to keep your motor n/a, it's going to be just a little bit harder. but the first thing you can do if you want to keep it n/a is get a bad ass exhaust system... skunk 2 makes an excellent one that will not make your 2.2L sound raspy like a civic, greddy makes a good one, hks probably makes the best one. the next thing you can do is buy an exhaust header. then save up and buy an msd blaster ignition coil and msd programable digital-7 ignition box. then install some ngk iridium spark plugs and ngk wires. get you a nice cold air intake; i would recommend injen. they're a little bit more expensive, but just that will give you up to 20hp. and what you can do on the cold air intake is take off the injen air filter, and put on a k&n cone filter. buy some new cams, cam gears, if you want, buy some new cylinder heads. like i said it's gonna be hard to get 300 hp by keeping it n/a... but it is possible. if you want a quick 70-150 hp, slap on a nice turbo kit. but before you do that, you need to do a little research and see what your compression is. you don't want a high comp. with a turbo, or the pressure will blow all the freeze plugs and possibly crack the actual block. so you want a low comp., but you gotta put in higher flowing fuel injectors than those stock ones you got, b/c you don't want you engine to be running on 70% air and 30% fuel. so put on some 720cc fuel injectors, buy you an air/fuel ratio gauge, boost guage, air/oil temp. gauge, oil press. gauge, all that jazz. and that's a quick way to get your prelude to 300+ ponies with a turbo. you could also do a motor swap. you could get a b16 engine or a k20 engine (if you don't mind your prelude sounding like a civic), but you'll have to save up a few bucks for that k20 engine. but if you do get it, it'll be worth the 10K that you spent on it. or you can do something like what my friend did with his civic. you can take the integra gsr block (which has awesome top speed) and put on the integra ls heads (which has awesome acceleration). that way you can get the best of both ends. well hope that's a little bit of some help for you.
here are a couple links: http://www.andysautosport.com/ http://www.thepartsbin.com/performan...lude&year=1995 Last edited by GTSStevo; 02-24-2005 at 01:36 PM. |
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#6
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
Um, what? For one, no cold air intake is going to give you 20hp. You're lucky to get 3-5. Two, 720cc injectors are HUGE. For 300hp, 440cc injectors will do just fine. And three, why would you swap a b16 engine into a prelude? Use the engine you have. In addition, the stock ignition system on the prelude is very good, and from what I've read will support far more than 300hp, so don't waste your money there. If you want to make 300hp though, the best route is turbo. You could go N/A and I suppose get to 300hp, but with the cam and other things you would have to put into the engine, you'd be making your power past like 6000 RPM and you would lose your streetability. If you plan on doing a rebuild, then definitely go for pistons, rods, maybe sleeve the block too. You might want to do the valve train while you're at it too. Eagle and Crower are two brands that seem to be popular for internals. An exhaust is a must either way, but especially for a turbo. Go 2.5" with the exhaust, maybe bigger with a turbo.
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#7
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ok, one, i said UP TO 20 hp. my celica GTS gained 16.7 hp from my CUSTOM cold air intake made out of 3 inch dryer exhaust vent hose... no big name brand or anything. two, the injectors were for the turbo... you gonna run stock injectors on a turbo? no, you wouldn't. three, i said IF you wanted to do a motor swap and don't mind your car SOUNDING LIKE A CIVIC. another thing, the stock prelude ignition system does not compare to any msd ignition, so you can't say it's a bad idea. i would do it if you're on a big budget and want a little bit stronger combustion. i agree with the internals, but not the brand. go with a high name brand like greddy or ross. they both make forged pistons and rods, and are both top of the line internals for any vehicle. and the exhaust yes, even if you don't have the turbo, still gotta have the exhaust.
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#8
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
Ferrea or JUN of the following:
Titanium Valve Retainers Valve Springs Cam gears * JE Custom Pistons/Rings (Or the JUN pistons) Crower Rods Darton Sleeves Piston choice is where you decide if you want a turbo or not. NA and turbo piston designs are different (besides compression). The sleeves, and to a lesser extent the rods, follow the piston change. You don't necessarily have to do the last three, and if you do JUN products (Going full NA)across the board, you can use the JUN ecu pretty much without having to do any major tuning. Depending on how you go about it, you can be making from 230hp to +400hp. By the time you hit about 300hp, you'll be having such terrible tire problems that you won't be very competitive. Any more power will cause you to do burnouts all day.
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![]() 1993 Mazda Rx-7 Touring Ricer Extraordinaire Last edited by AcesHigh; 02-24-2005 at 05:14 PM. |
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#9
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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#10
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
No, you don't run stock internals on a turbo, but not 720cc, that's way too big. Turbo set-ups made for an H22A come with 440cc injectors, which are dyno proven to be the best choice is most applications. And why would you swap out an H22A for a smaller engine with less torque and less horsepower? The H-series engines were made for the ludes. And Aces, quick question. Is that 230-400hp estimate on an N/A application? I'd assume it wouldn't be very streetable right?
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#11
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300 flywheel hp mark is generally the streetability threshold for a typical NA H22A. A little under that would be ideal for the street. You can still run 93 pump gas, and there is enough low end power for curves. Also, changes in temperature and pressure won't pose as great of a threat to proper function and reliability.
+400hp is a number for turbocharged H22A's, and is a very realistic number (there are quite a few that have surpassed 500hp). Even slicks won't be gripping you much at this point. Also, I'd like to add that the JUN (along with the Type S) pistons are the only pistons that are compatible with H series FRM lining. This roughly translates to, get this: *no resleeving required*.
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![]() 1993 Mazda Rx-7 Touring Ricer Extraordinaire |
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#12
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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so where do you get the 93 octane gas? |
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#13
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Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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#14
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Re: Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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![]() 1993 Mazda Rx-7 Touring Ricer Extraordinaire |
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#15
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Re: Re: 1995 300HP Prelude
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