1995 G-20 Pulls Right While Breaking

[crazyjjk]

I have a 1995 Chevrolet G-20 that pulls quite violently towards the passenger side when the brakes are applied. We have put on new calipers, rotors, pads, hoses and a new idler arm. This has done nothing to remedy the problem. All bushings and ball joints appear ok but we are suspecting a suspension problem somewhere. Possibly a control arm bushing that is collapsing. Anyone ever have this problem or have any suggestions as to what it might be. The van is basically undrivable as is and none of the local garages seem to have a clue.

[rcisfun]

I have a 1994 with the same problem, if you brake normally it goes straight, if you hit the brakes hard, it will pull very hard to the right.
Could it be the balance valve?

[crazyjjk]

I do not know if it is the balance valve, I had a mechanic tell me he suspects that is what it is as this is a criss cross brake system. I am going to take it to him to see and will let you know. It is getting very expensive taking it to garages and pay for them to randomly replace parts hoping to find the problem.

[Kooterskkar]

Prolly a worn tie rod end. My Corsica's been doing something similar to that, the entire brake system is brand new except the lines and master. Balljoints are all new and so are the control arm bushings, last thing I can figure is tie rod ends.

[crazyjjk]

Took it to a friend who races asphalt circle track cars. He has traced it to the ABS criss cross valve underneath the van. Hopefully replacing this will work. Will keep you posted.

[localyokel]

Hi,this sounds possibly like a fairly simple fix.You do realize that if it jerks to the right that means the left side isn't working.Makes since huh.Did you replace both sides calipers and hoses?Or just the right side.If you replaced both sides it should be fixed.My suggestion would be to open up the bleeder on the left front to see if fluid will gravity bleed out freely,because it should (w/ master cylinder cap off).If not,you have hose restriction.If the brake hose has an intermediate bracket (that attaches the hose to the upper a arm)that is usually the culprit.(sometimes even on new hoses) simply take a angle ended pry bar (or something)and insert into the gap of the bracket and pry it apart to free up the hose from being so constricted(being carefull not to damage the hose).Then the brake fluid should graity bleed more freely and hopefully problem solved.Hope this helps and Good luck!!!

[crazyjjk]

Already replaced both sides completely, and checked the brackets to make sure the hose has no restrictions. Thanks for your help though.

[crazyjjk]

Turned out to be the ABS unit. The piece with the electric motor on it. Seems the unit had shut off the flow to the passenger side brake. Had to replace the unit and everything works well now.

[localyokel]

Thanks for the update!Good info, I havent seen this particular problem yet as far as abs blocking flow.I'd been wondering about this one.

[conradm56]

95 G20 van abs light on and speedometer quit working. I got a code 72. Speed sensor malfunction. I replace the vehicle speed sensor still the vehicle wont shift and speedometer wont work, abs light still on. All I have is 41000 miles Only use the van once a year on a family vacation. pls help

[RNRea]

Probably the DRAC module went bad. This is what takes the speed sensor signal and converts it to signals for the speedometer, ABS and computer. It is a white-plastic square box with a connector coming out of it and clipped to the parking brake mount. You can find these in the junk yard (look for early-mid 90's, they are usually by or under the glove box except vans). To get the speedometer to work correctly the jumper wires need to match. Either clip the extras out or add missing ones in (this assumes that you can solder wires).