rotors continue to warp even after replacing twice

[ckhanco]

First, I am new so Hello! I have a full size ford van, 97' model, and the front end shutters when you step on the brakes. We have had the rotors turned and new brake pads the first time. It did really well for several months and then it started shuttering again. The second time around we bought new rotors, brakes, tires and even replaced the caliburs. It was good for about a month or two and it started shuttering again and now it is horrible. What could be causing this to happen again and again? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much! : p

[yotermanic]

Have you checked for warped spindles? It's not too common, but I've seen that before. Also, are they torquing your lug nuts to the correct spec?

[ModMech]

The quality of the rotors does play a BIG role in how resistant to warping they are, but even with cheap rotors you whould get better servcie than a month or two.

I suspect one of the calipers is dragging which is causing excessive friction on one side warping the rotor. This might be because of a pinched brake line, collapsed brake hose, an internal ABS problem (if it has ABS), or even a master cylinder that does not release fully. To check for these things, jack up the front end, press firmly on the brake pedal, and then see if you can rotate both front wheels relatively easily, if neither rotate, look to the master cylinder, if only one is "stiff" you have identified which side you have a problem with, and tace it back until you find the source.

[chip963]

I had a similar problem with an 2002 E150. As it turned out the wheel bearing was slightly loose and greese contaminated the rotar.
The ABS system had a heck of a time figuring out what to do. It was a complete break job on Ford, front and rear, as the ABS "messed things up". About 5,000 miles later it was back... this time there wasn't a grease problem, again Ford did me right. Can't complain about the service, however the design could be improved. It seams that the breaks on the 150's are pretty weak. I got 110,000 miles on the front breaks on my 1992 E350. Just bought a 2004 E350...

[kate150]

I'm new to this forum so hello. I had the same problem with a warped rotor. My shocks were worn, and with the weight of the vehicle, this caused the rotor to warp. I replaced the shocks, rotors, etc. and now the brakes work great. Just something else you might want to check. I have a 1995 E-150 with 201,559 miles. I love my van.

[chip963]

The first thing I did to my 2002 E150 was to replace the inferior factory shocks with Edelbrock IAS units. There was a substantial improvement in the ride and handeling of the van. So shock problems didn't have an influence on my particular brake rotor troubles. Again, my old 1992 E350 had no shock, or brake problems. The heavy duty equipment on the E350's works. I wasn't too impressed with the performance of my 2002 E150. That's why it's history. Plus I've got plans to have my new 2004 converted to four wheel drive.

[Hollowcreek]

Your front end brake shudder is easily corrected. I found this out after years of frustration and several sets of rotors. The 97 E 150 came with 4 wheel antilock brakes standard on most models and they are nasty beasts to cope with.
If, when you change the pads on your 97 E150 you compressed the front calipers, the antilock brake system gets really screwed up. From there on in you are basically stopping the vehicle on the fronts only with the rears basically along for the ride. That is what eventually leads to the vibration. Having the vibration does not necessarily mean that the rotors have warped though if you catch it early enough. The extra heat and stress from stopping the entire vehicle on the front brakes only is what is causing your rotors to warp. Once they warp, you feel the vibration in the pedal not the steering.
It can be corrected with a STAR tool connected to regulate the antilock valving while bleeding the brakes OR With the engine running simply open both rear bleeder screws and have someone put the brake pedal to the floor and hold it while the screws are closed. Repeat 3 or 4 times, top off the brake fluid and take it for a test drive. It usually works like a charm.