got my engine running but not good at all

[anthony90si]

i finally got all the parts i needed(head, all gaskets,timing chainetc.) i got the truck back wednesday form the garage and they couldn't get it running good. first of all to start it it sounds like the timing would be off cause it takes a while to start, and i have to press the gas(seams like takes time to build up pressure)just like if the timing is off or something. also if i remove the hoses from the valve cover there is alot of blowing air. they told me that the block was finished. what i find weird is that the engine ran with out any problems before with the old head on untill the chain jumped. so can it be that the chain was put on wrong. or will a bad block cause the starting problems.oh an the check engine is on.
thanks for any help

[anthony90si]

also once it is running it has barely any power before 2000 rpm. once it get into 2000-3000 it is so so. and after 3000 it pulls great. so would a damaged block run great after a certain rpm or is it just the timing that can cause that. it feels like i have a vtec. lmao oh and for the guys that doesn't know i changes the head due to warpage after overheating it..could the heat damage the block?
thanks guys

[4Wheel]

What's your fuel pressure? needs to be near 45lbs

[anthony90si]

Originally Posted by 4Wheel

What's your fuel pressure? needs to be near 45lbs

not sure but why would it be different from befor??

[4Wheel]

Oh it should NOT be different but something is!
Right?

Yes heat can affect the block.
When you say there is a lot of "blowing air" when the hoses are disconnected, what hoses? there should be the normal vacuum but if you block the PCV then there should be very little.
What is your compression on every cylinder?
Did you witness the work being done? head gaskets properly intstalled?

Why did it overheat? Blown headgasket?
The only thing that normally causes the "blowing air" in any engine is blow-by due to worn out rings.

[kris]

It does sound like the cam timing is off to me. Without hearing the motor, or seeing it run, it's hard to tell though.

[Angella]

check out that check engine light first thing... see what you've got...

I was given this link recently, wonderful - might help you.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

[Angella]

oh yeah, I'm seeing similar symptoms, except I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with a bad knock sensor (code 52)

[anthony90si]

Originally Posted by Angella

oh yeah, I'm seeing similar symptoms, except I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with a bad knock sensor (code 52)

it overheated cause there was a hole in the rad. the air blows out out the oil cap. ya i am hoping it is the timing that would be bad. would that cause the engine light to go on. cause a bad block won't cause a light right??
thnaks

[anthony90si]

would a bad block cause to have little power befor a certain rpm or would the power loss be throughout the rpm range.

[Angella]

a bad knock sensor (I'm assuming that's what you mean) would retard the timing to prevent you from harming the engine... it won't have bad power throughout the range, it mostly just won't get to those higher important rpms. : )

find a paper clip (to use as a jump wire : ) and 5 minutes and follow that diagram - as long as you can count, you'll know exactly what it's saying in no time. : )

[anthony90si]

Originally Posted by Angella

a bad knock sensor (I'm assuming that's what you mean) would retard the timing to prevent you from harming the engine... it won't have bad power throughout the range, it mostly just won't get to those higher important rpms. : )

find a paper clip (to use as a jump wire : ) and 5 minutes and follow that diagram - as long as you can count, you'll know exactly what it's saying in no time. : )

but how and where from will it read the codes?? i am kinda confused. thanks man

[anthony90si]

oh ok i see

[Angella]

got it? the check engine light will blink out the codes...

let us know when you figure it out : )

[4Wheel]

The knock sensor shouldn’t cause as much power loss as you are experiencing.
I can't get past the fact that there is excessive blow-by. This is a major issue especially with an engine that just had a major performed. The codes that will be logged may well be erroneous due to the mechanical issues, air fuel mixtures that the ECU has attempted to automatically correct.
The codes are generated with a best effort algorithm assuming that everything else is sound, crank and cam aligned properly.
Blow-by, if there is an excessive amount or more than there was before the head gasket job is a mechanical problem nothing electrical/electronic will cause this. Plus running an engine with an improperly timed cams can result in more damage.
This is difficult to do without being there. So start at the basics with the items that need to be looked at without the engine running.
A quick compression check will tell you a lot, it will even explain a rough idle and blow by if it’s worn rings but you say it ran fine before.
Check the timing belt timing it doesn’t take too much work to get the covers off just the damper will require a puller sometimes.
This is the easiest: check the MAF on top the air cleaner make sure it is not binding and the rest of the intake conduit, free of blockages clean air filter.
Exhaust, how old? Not blocked? Had a muffler fall apart internally and the pieces collapsed the exit tube it caused a lot of backpressure.
Just some ideas “in the dark”
Brin R. and Angella always have good sound suggestions, so keep trying, keep asking.
Good luck keep us posted when you find out.