how to change plugs in 88 ciera

[computerdude14]

hey guys, im a small engine mechanic and i have swapped a few honda motors be4, but never really understood this american made crap. lol. anyway my dads got an 88 cutlass ceira and the plugs need to be changed badly... but im told that its just like our buick century where te motor has to be tilted forward to get to the back plugs... my only question is what motor mounts do i have to loosen to get it to do so. please gimme detailed instructions thanks.

mike

[Slade901]

For one thing, you won't get any reply because you called american made motor crap hehe j/k

Engage the emergency brake.
Do the front sparkplugs first. Use anti-seize grease on the sparkplugs threads.

To replace the rear spark plugs.
There are usually two dog bone on the front of the engine. There are two bolts on each dog bone. Loosen all four bolts. You need to remove the bolts on the engine side of the two dog bones.
You need crow bar or some heavy pipe. On top of the engine, you will see a eye-hole use to lift the engine with a chain. This is the place where you put the crow bar or some pipe and then pull the top part of the crow bar to tilt the engine forward. While you are tilting the engine forward, you need to align back the dog bones but this time put back the bolts on the bottom side hole of the dog bone which allows the engine to stay tilted while you remove the crow bar.
You should have more clearance at the rear of the engine to remove the spark plugs. You may need some extension bar to reach the rear spark plugs with a ratchet, etc.

[computerdude14]

Originally Posted by Slade901

For one thing, you won't get any reply because you called american made motor crap hehe j/k

Engage the emergency brake.
Do the front sparkplugs first. Use anti-seize grease on the sparkplugs threads.

To replace the rear spark plugs.
There are usually two dog bone on the front of the engine. There are two bolts on each dog bone. Loosen all four bolts. You need to remove the bolts on the engine side of the two dog bones.
You need crow bar or some heavy pipe. On top of the engine, you will see a eye-hole use to lift the engine with a chain. This is the place where you put the crow bar or some pipe and then pull the top part of the crow bar to tilt the engine forward. While you are tilting the engine forward, you need to align back the dog bones but this time put back the bolts on the bottom side hole of the dog bone which allows the engine to stay tilted while you remove the crow bar.
You should have more clearance at the rear of the engine to remove the spark plugs. You may need some extension bar to reach the rear spark plugs with a ratchet, etc.

heh thanks... i appreciate it. and just for future reference... the only reason that i called it american made crap is cuz the buick that i've been driving had the same darn issue of tryin to get the motor to tilt and whatnot... we had such a problem with it that we had to take it in to the shop to have them change the plugs for us... not fun. anyway... im also used to working on my honda prelude... and i must admit, hondas are very very easy to work on compared to the buick ive been driving and my dads cutlass... but thats just my opinion. lol, no offense meant at any rate. well guess thats my next project after i get home from work tonight lol. peace!

[82 meeno]

Originally Posted by computerdude14

heh thanks... i appreciate it. and just for future reference... the only reason that i called it american made crap is cuz the buick that i've been driving had the same darn issue of tryin to get the motor to tilt and whatnot... we had such a problem with it that we had to take it in to the shop to have them change the plugs for us... not fun. anyway... im also used to working on my honda prelude... and i must admit, hondas are very very easy to work on compared to the buick ive been driving and my dads cutlass... but thats just my opinion. lol, no offense meant at any rate. well guess thats my next project after i get home from work tonight lol. peace!

Does the trans need to be unbolted to tilt the motor.... I'm thinking of taking mine out and putting another one!!!


Thanks
Ray

[computerdude14]

Originally Posted by 82 meeno

Does the trans need to be unbolted to tilt the motor.... I'm thinking of taking mine out and putting another one!!!


Thanks
Ray

well... do u mean a new engine or new tranny? im sorta confused, lol. and also for which kind of car?

mike

[computerdude14]

Originally Posted by Slade901

For one thing, you won't get any reply because you called american made motor crap hehe j/k

Engage the emergency brake.
Do the front sparkplugs first. Use anti-seize grease on the sparkplugs threads.

To replace the rear spark plugs.
There are usually two dog bone on the front of the engine. There are two bolts on each dog bone. Loosen all four bolts. You need to remove the bolts on the engine side of the two dog bones.
You need crow bar or some heavy pipe. On top of the engine, you will see a eye-hole use to lift the engine with a chain. This is the place where you put the crow bar or some pipe and then pull the top part of the crow bar to tilt the engine forward. While you are tilting the engine forward, you need to align back the dog bones but this time put back the bolts on the bottom side hole of the dog bone which allows the engine to stay tilted while you remove the crow bar.
You should have more clearance at the rear of the engine to remove the spark plugs. You may need some extension bar to reach the rear spark plugs with a ratchet, etc.

ok... for a series of reasons that im not gonna go into about, i didnt get a chance to actually try replacing the plugs until yesterday, lol. however i still ran into a problem... i can only find 1 dogbone, and thats right at the front of the motor where it connects the motor to the front of the car. i cant find any second one. and if theres only sposed to be the one dogbone on there, then why does the motor still seem like it doesnt want to tilt. it seems like theres still something else holding it, my dad even tried to tilt it but it just wont. is there something else that i am supposed to unbolt that im just not seeing or what? any help would be appreciated, heh.

mike

[computerdude14]

Originally Posted by Slade901

For one thing, you won't get any reply because you called american made motor crap hehe j/k

Engage the emergency brake.
Do the front sparkplugs first. Use anti-seize grease on the sparkplugs threads.

To replace the rear spark plugs.
There are usually two dog bone on the front of the engine. There are two bolts on each dog bone. Loosen all four bolts. You need to remove the bolts on the engine side of the two dog bones.
You need crow bar or some heavy pipe. On top of the engine, you will see a eye-hole use to lift the engine with a chain. This is the place where you put the crow bar or some pipe and then pull the top part of the crow bar to tilt the engine forward. While you are tilting the engine forward, you need to align back the dog bones but this time put back the bolts on the bottom side hole of the dog bone which allows the engine to stay tilted while you remove the crow bar.
You should have more clearance at the rear of the engine to remove the spark plugs. You may need some extension bar to reach the rear spark plugs with a ratchet, etc.

one problem... we can only find one dogbone on the front of the motor, so i unbolted that according to ur instructions... but couldnt get the motor to tilt 4 anything... any other suggestions, as i need to get to the back plugs badly. thanks

Mike

[computerdude14]

Is there really only one person on this forum that actually knows how to tilt the motor to replace spark plugs on this car? lol... this post has been up for at least a few months now, and still nobody has bothered to reply with any info that could help me out. I really dont want to have the car running 3 new plugs in the front and 3 really old and crappy plugs in the back for much longer. As i said in one of my previous posts on here, I can only find one dogbone thingie, and even after taking the bolts out and such, the motor still wont tilt. somebody, PLZ PLZ help me asap! thanks

mike

[cliffs_redneck]

I've driven both a W-body Cutlass Supreme and an A-body Cutlass Ciera. On the Cutlass Supreme with the V-6, it was necessary to rotate the engine forward as described above in order to change the rear plugs. My current Cutlass Ciera with V-6 has only 1 "dogbone" mount and quite a bit more room on the backside of the engine. I've never had to rotate the engine and don't believe that it can be done easily. Hope this helps clarify the situation.

[computerdude14]

Originally Posted by cliffs_redneck

I've driven both a W-body Cutlass Supreme and an A-body Cutlass Ciera. On the Cutlass Supreme with the V-6, it was necessary to rotate the engine forward as described above in order to change the rear plugs. My current Cutlass Ciera with V-6 has only 1 "dogbone" mount and quite a bit more room on the backside of the engine. I've never had to rotate the engine and don't believe that it can be done easily. Hope this helps clarify the situation.

ok, well i'll have to take another look, but from what i remember, the plugs on my dads cutlass ciera v6 (rear plugs) seemed to be very difficult to get to without being able to rotate the motor forward. thanks for replying tho, and like i said i'll give it another look when i get the chance just in case i am mistaken. peace

mike

[cliffs_redneck]

For what it's worth, here's the procedure for rotating the engine on the W-bodies (Lumina, Cutlass Supreme, Regal, Grand Prix) through 96 with the 2.8L and 3.1L V6.

In order to gain access to the spark plugs, the engine must first be rotated.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.

For vehicles through 1994, rotate the engine as follows:

Place the transaxle in Neutral.

Remove the air cleaner assembly and coolant recovery bottle.

Unfasten the torque strut-to-engine bracket bolts and swing the torque struts aside.

Replace the passenger side torque strut-to-engine bracket bolt in the engine bracket.

Position a prybar in the bracket so that it contacts the bracket and the bolt.

Rotate the engine by pulling forward on the prybar.

Align the slave hole in the driver side torque strut to the engine bracket hole.

Retain the engine in this position using the torque strut-to-engine bracket bolt.

Place the transaxle in Neutral.

Remove the air cleaner assembly and coolant recovery bottle.

Unfasten the torque strut-to-engine bracket bolts and swing the torque struts aside.

Install engine tilter J 41131 or equivalent, then rotate the engine forward.

Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.

Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.

Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.

Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore.

What the heck...it might work OK for the A-bodies...good luck!