Idle Problem

[Ghostcloak]

When i drive around my engine is fine.. Lately, i've noticed my rpm's have been dropping at idle... They are normally at around 700 rpms.. now they've dropped to just below 350 rpms... sometimes almost hitting 0... It drives well otherwise... I wasn't sure if it could be fuel pump/filter? I don't really wanna spend 70 bucks for a diagnostics test if one of ya could help me.. Plugs are fine... and it just started happening recently, so i doubt it's timing... THANKS!

[a1waytrip]

hey unless ur check engine light is on, a diagnosis probily won't do anything, uhh, 700 rpm? geez that's hi, what year/model do you have again? mine runs at 220 or so, when it is warmed up. check for either a vaccum leak, or you can screw around with the idle control screw. 700 rpm seems way to hi to me. but i don't know. if you wanted to, you could just but the defrost on, and that will raise your idleing speed about 500 rpm, so it shouldn't cut off on you like that, any way, let me know

[Ghostcloak]

well it runs smoothly, sounds smoothly when running about 700 rpm (pretty much right on the "tik" mark below the 1,000 rpm line). However, since i've noticed it to drop to about 300 rpm (the first "tick" mark from the "dead 0" rpm line) it sounds a bit louder, and i can feel a little jerking... as if the engine was off balance. I'll check tomorrow mornin... Thanks a1way. It hasn't cut off on me... But just watching the tak, it's come pretty close to hitting the "dead 0 rpm" line... And it doesn't do this each time i sit at a light to idle...
No engine light.
1993 SE 2.0 L, 4 cyl. 133,200 miles.

[a1waytrip]

hey mine runs at the first tick mark, but now it is stalling! it sucks, i think my fuel filter is clogged, when you change the filter, do you need to releave the fuel pressure? thanks
-tom

[Ghostcloak]

I changed the oil. Now it runs just fine, and the rpms drop down to about 300 rpms... Factory oil sux.... only 1k miles on it

[a1waytrip]

hey i fixed my problem, there was a vaccum leak on my intake thanks, but now my freaking car has this hesitation problem, again, the way it was fixed last time was reseting the timing, and changing the plugs, think it will work again? i already changed the plugs, same problem, can the timing be that gay, that it needs to be retimes every 3 months? thanks

[Ghostcloak]

maybe.... I'm hearing a "tik tik tik" just behind the PCV valve on my 2.0L 4-cyl probe... It ticks just about the same speed as someone saying "tik tik tik tik tik" as fast as they can when engines at idle... Could it be my timing? I didn't hear that "ticking" sound when i first got the car.... How much does a timing reset go for?

[a1waytrip]

nooo it isn't timing, it is the infamous lifter tick! mine's got it too, don't worry about it, alot of cars get it, timing reset costed me about $35, it's not to big of a job, but the sound you are hearing, if you really want to get rid of it, will probily cost around 300-400. it isn't a sign anything is going bad, it is just an annoyance that will come and go.

[a1waytrip]

ohh MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH OIL!

[Ghostcloak]

Originally Posted by a1waytrip

ohh MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH OIL!

Lol, i just changed the oil so yeah! lol.. thanks!

[exploder_sport]

I have had your problem before.... my probe normally idles at 750, when you turn on the A/C it increases to 1000 rpm..... My car started to do the funky chicken with rpm at 250, my IAC was seized I replaced it and it is fine! make sure to clean you intake every 10000k and you wil not have that problem in the future!

1993 probe!

[blindfoldedhope]

LOL my car burns like 8-9 quarts in between changes now i dont even bother checking it i listen for the ticking... My engine is shot to hell... I think it t might only be valve seals and guides i mean the thing runs quiet just burns like hell on start up then is fine but i mean the oil has to be going somewhere..... 93 Probe sensei 2.0 P.O.S

[cruzn67]

I just took my 95 Probe in because it was dying at stops, runs great otherwise. My mechanic said it was probably the idle sensor, about $80 for the part, the car would idle high when it first was started, about 1200, then it would take FOREVER to come back down, a lot of times when I went to put it in drive I would cringe because the car would lunge like John Force leaving the starting line,real good on the tranny and motor mounts.So anyway, I dropped the car off and the mechanic calls me later and asks if I am sitting down (not a good sign) and he informs me that its not the sensor but the sensor motor that is going out, a part only available thru Ford for a grand total of $565.Needless to say the only thing the car got that day was oil change.