Bleed Clutch Time?

[nissan180]

How long does it usually take to Bleed the Clutch.

I've done it like 10 times with 3 pumps each time...seems like I'm getting no where. Dont know if I'm doing anything wrong or if I just need to keep going. I pump the clutch pedal 3 times and then hold it down and my dad lets the fluid come out and I check the resevoir to make sure it doesnt run out of fluid.

Am I doing it right?

Should be the same principles as bleeding the brakes right?

Thanks

[nissanfanatic]

It can take all day if you still have the damper box on your clutch line. If you remove that, it should take about 5 minutes.

www.zeroyon.com has a tutorial on how to remove the damper box. Good luck.

But yes basically the same principle as bleeding the brakes. Don't let it run completely out of fluid or you have to re-prime the master cylinder, at least thats the best I can word it. I had to use an air compressor to push the cylinder back in because I primed the system dry. Duuuhhh?hahahahaha Good luck.

[DWF Engineering]

I've recently dealt with this same problem. My initial hang up was that I didn't have enough pledal free play so the master cylinder was not opening into the reservoir and thus not pumping more fluid into the line. After that was fixed I found that you should use about 7 rapid pumps, then bleed at the bleeder block. Repeat this about three times then move to the bleeder on the slave cylinder and repeat there about three times. Keep going back and forth between the two and you'll get it, eventually.

I did it by myself with silicone lines attached to the bleeders at one end and with the other end submerged in brake fluid.This prevents air from being sucked back into the line while you pump. I opened, and left open, both bleeders. Then I took my can of brake fluid and turned it upside down in the fluid reservoir, much like the 5 gallon bottled water coolers. This keeps the reservoir full. Then just pump fast and hard with full pedal strokes. I didn't count them but I used allmost an entire quart of fluid doing this but it allowed me to complete the job without an extra set of hands at the bleeders.

I agree that the bleeder block or damper block should be removed. Another thing to try if you still have problems is to remove the arch in the line that passes over the engine by the fire wall. High spots in your line trap air.

Anyway:
1. check free play
2. try 7 rapid and forceful pumps using maximum pedal travel
3. remove the bleeder block if problems persist
4. remove arch if problems persist
5. if problems still persist you should replace the master cylinder piston because the valve that allows fluid into the cylinder is bad. Cost $10
6. I haven't tried this yet but if you get really desperate you should be able to get a bulb pump made for siphoning gas and attach the "out" line to the bleeder and submerge the "in" line in your brake fluid can. Open the bleeder and remove the cap from the reservoir. The pedal must be in its highest position. The reservoir will fill backwards and over flow so put some old towels under it to catch the fluid. Pump as fast you can. This will fill your line from the bottom up, which in theory is more likely to remove trapped air.