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Old 01-23-2005, 11:30 PM
stanbell stanbell is offline
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90 camry dies on accelleration from a stop, not everytime though

I had a cold start problem and solved it with a new cold start injector, now i have the problem of the engine stopping on accelleration from a stop. I have done a major tune-up, plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor, timing, air filter, fuel filter, and injector cleaner in the fuel. I think that I need to test the ignition coil, but do not know the specs for this year. I am not sure how to test the igniter.
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:52 PM
don24mac don24mac is offline
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i had to replace the coil twice in my 90 Camry. Once at about 75,000 miles, and again about 145,000.

The ignition coil on the 4 cyl (3S-FE) has the following resistance values:

Primary coil resistance (cold): 0.38 to 0.46 ohms.

Secondary coil resistance (cold): 7.7 to 10.4 ohms.

In the distributor pick-up coil connector are two terminals together G, and also NE. Then below them is one terminal labeled as G followed by a circle with a line through it. I'll call that G*

Check the resistance between G and G*, and also between NE and G*
the resistance should be between 140 and 180 ohms. If the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly.
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Old 01-24-2005, 04:08 PM
burchard burchard is offline
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Re: 90 camry dies on accelleration from a stop, not everytime though

Quote:
Originally Posted by don24mac
i had to replace the coil twice in my 90 Camry. Once at about 75,000 miles, and again about 145,000.

The ignition coil on the 4 cyl (3S-FE) has the following resistance values:

Primary coil resistance (cold): 0.38 to 0.46 ohms.

Secondary coil resistance (cold): 7.7 to 10.4 ohms.

In the distributor pick-up coil connector are two terminals together G, and also NE. Then below them is one terminal labeled as G followed by a circle with a line through it. I'll call that G*

Check the resistance between G and G*, and also between NE and G*
the resistance should be between 140 and 180 ohms. If the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly.
A naive point : Make sure you do not a dirty EGR
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:54 PM
stanbell stanbell is offline
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Thanks Don, I think that it is the coil but will not get to testing it till the weekend now. My daugher does not get the car home till 9:00PM and I am on my way tyo rest by than. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes. I will test the egr valve also, as Buchard recommended because it is so easy to do and I have had an egr valve cause power loss, though it never caused the engine to quit outright.
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:13 PM
don24mac don24mac is offline
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When my coil went, each time it was rather easy to see it was the problem. You could see burn marks on them. My symptoms were similar to yours, except that I also had very bad acceleration up hills and such and some stalling on start up from stop. With very little load, the engine seemed to run OK.

I've had the EGR problems, too, but with that problem, I had hard starting problems caused by the sticking valve (sticking open). Worth considering, though.
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:08 AM
stanbell stanbell is offline
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I replaced the coil, checked and cleaned the egr valve, all the problems seem to be non existant at this point. My daughter said the car has never run better. My you all have clear skies, thanks.
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