need help finding

[kingpinn]

i have a 95 Rodeo 3.2 and it only has a 150k miles and a rod started knockin so i need a Engine where can i find one and whats the best one to get thank you

[Ramblin Fever]

Originally Posted by kingpinn

i have a 95 Rodeo 3.2 and it only has a 150k miles and a rod started knockin so i need a Engine where can i find one and whats the best one to get thank you

Many people have sworn that the noise they've heard was a Rod that starting knocking; however 99% of the time, it turns out to be the timing belt tensioner that has gone bad - sounds just like a Rod knockin on these 3.2L engines.

It is VERY unusual for a severe engine problem in these 95-97 3.2L
engines with only 150K, unless you've ran it low on oil or neglected oil changes.

Don't count that engine out til you've checked out the timing belt tensioner (much cheaper to replace), if that's bad, might as well change out the water pump and the timing belt as well.

The book says this should be done every 60K; but it's rare for the tensioner, belt or pump to go bad before 80K miles. If yours has never been done, I would definitely put the $$$ there before spending 2K on a new engine you may not even need.

[rodeo02]

Originally Posted by Ramblin Fever

Many people have sworn that the noise they've heard was a Rod that starting knocking; however 99% of the time, it turns out to be the timing belt tensioner that has gone bad - sounds just like a Rod knockin on these 3.2L engines.....

Absolutely. Does it knock only at idle & stops at higher RPM's?? What happens is the hydraulic t-belt tensioner pusher gets weak & wont tension the t-belt sufficiently @ idle. The belt then slaps against the timing belt cover(s) & it sounds just like a rod knock. If you remove the timing belt covers the knock should stop. Eventually the t-belt will slip and/or pop off due to the weak pusher. Engine will just quit. You wont smash any valves.
G/luck
Joel

[Slade901]

I've fixed engine knocking already with simple fix.

1. Drain 1 quart of oil and put 1 quart of GUNK motor flush and some people just use 1 quart of transmission fluid (high detergent/good cleaner). With the gunk, you are suppose to run the engine for 5 minutes and drain the whole oil and put new oil filter and new oil. With transmission fluid, some tries to drive the vehicle for 30 miles and some drives until 500 miles and then do an oil change/new oil filter. New oil used is 5W30.

OR

2. If the 1. fails then time to drain the whole oil and put new oil filter and then remove the oil pump and oil pump strainer/filter. Put a new oil pump and oil pump strainer/filter. Put new oil 5W30.

99% of the time, it fixes knocking noise I've encountered so far even "expert" mechanic said that they can fix it by overhauling the engine but I did the step 1 or step 2 and it fixed the knocking problem.

I put this on their head/mind. Replace oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months. Failure replacing the oil as stated will cause the oil to break down (black death) and starts turning into sludge/gunk.

[rodeo02]

Originally Posted by Slade901

I've fixed engine knocking already with simple fix.

1. Drain 1 quart of oil and put 1 quart of GUNK motor flush............

There's a big difference between a rod knock noise and a top end (valvetrain) tick. Keeping your lube/oil system clean can help with the 1993-1997 3.2L tick. If you've got a genuine rod knock going on, it's a bit too late to check/clean the oil pump & p/up screen. You've already got bottom end issues.

Joel

[kingpinn]

thanks so much guys