Figure this one out 1996 caravan 3.3 liter problems

[simplyflawed]

i have a 96 caravan for work, ran like a dream, had a fuel pump bad so i changed it, bout 2 weeks later it started acting funny bogging down, spitting and sputtering almost like it was out of time, but it would come and go, so i got another new fuel pump and put it in to be sure it wasnt that, weeks of driving it like this got old and worse now the van spits and sputters only in forward gears but runs fine in nutral, reverse, and park, reving the engine is not a problem, but as soon as i put it in drive it will start to spit and sputter and pop and bog down, also i've learnt that it now has trouble on hills and the engine will usually die trying to top a steep hill, where then i have to let the vehicle roll down to flat serface before it will crank again, more problems that came since then are gauges quit the lights for the a/c and rear defrost constantly blink but everything work fine, now thats what it does, heres what i've tried to do to fix the problem.

1) spark plugs
2) coil pack
3) fuel injectors
4) fuel pump
5) fuel filter
6) cam sensor
7) crank sensor
8) cleaned throttle body
9) tried a diffrent throttle body
10) fixed all computer code problems
11) cleaned the fuel tank

now the van runs fine every so often, but more times than not it runs like crap now and i can't figure it out its been down for about 3 months now i had a friend look at it he had a machine and he said he thinks its the transmission but with these problems i just dont see how the tranny is bad it shifts fine and like i said i could drive the van 50 miles and it has no problems but on the 51st mile it could run like crap for 100 more lol

[B33p3r]

Don't know answer but love to troubleshoot. Forward only. Why? Higher speeds...More heat...More exhaust? Catalytic converter? Do you have O2 sensors after converter? They would probably show a code if you had them. No code if you didn't. Fuel pressure test? A piece of rust or dirt blocking your fuel line somewhat not alowing enough fuel during higher speeds? Could explain why it happened after fuel pump change.(things got disturbed) Keep us up to date

[simplyflawed]

Originally Posted by simplyflawed

i have a 96 caravan for work, ran like a dream, had a fuel pump bad so i changed it, bout 2 weeks later it started acting funny bogging down, spitting and sputtering almost like it was out of time, but it would come and go, so i got another new fuel pump and put it in to be sure it wasnt that, weeks of driving it like this got old and worse now the van spits and sputters only in forward gears but runs fine in nutral, reverse, and park, reving the engine is not a problem, but as soon as i put it in drive it will start to spit and sputter and pop and bog down, also i've learnt that it now has trouble on hills and the engine will usually die trying to top a steep hill, where then i have to let the vehicle roll down to flat serface before it will crank again, more problems that came since then are gauges quit the lights for the a/c and rear defrost constantly blink but everything work fine, now thats what it does, heres what i've tried to do to fix the problem.

1) spark plugs
2) coil pack
3) fuel injectors
4) fuel pump
5) fuel filter
6) cam sensor
7) crank sensor
8) cleaned throttle body
9) tried a diffrent throttle body
10) fixed all computer code problems
11) cleaned the fuel tank

now the van runs fine every so often, but more times than not it runs like crap now and i can't figure it out its been down for about 3 months now i had a friend look at it he had a machine and he said he thinks its the transmission but with these problems i just dont see how the tranny is bad it shifts fine and like i said i could drive the van 50 miles and it has no problems but on the 51st mile it could run like crap for 100 more lol

no not only at higher speeds, its random usually the van is smooth while going down the road at a steady speed and i can kick down on it it will bog for a few seconds then just take off in overdrive with my foot to the floor and then again on that same note it can very easy bog down completely or not bog down at all thanks for the reply everyone told me it wasnt the converter cause it ran to good in park.

[427v8]

Bad computer?

[mikewd400]

When you replaced the throttle body, did you use the same TPS? Have you checked it at all throttle positions? Sometimes they get a "flat spot" and think they are at idle.

[HeadlessHorseman]

Originally Posted by simplyflawed

...now the van runs fine every so often, but more times than not it runs like crap now and i can't figure it out...

Do the OBD code dance AGAIN... (I know you know the drill) key in the ignition, then ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON and leave it in the ON position (do not actually start your vehicle at any time, however)... watch your Check Engine light... it flashes to give you one or more (up to 9) two-digit codes.

Check this...

http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html

It sounds to me like either or both of your O2 sensors may be crapping out. I had exactly the same problem... twice. I also noticed that upstream and downstream O2 sensors are not on your list. Your '96 Caravan (like my GC LE) has TWO of these sensors...

The UPSTREAM O2 sensor is located in a tapped port on the EXHAUST MANIFOLD under the hood.

The DOWNSTREAM O2 sensor is located near the CATALYTIC CONVERTER under the vehicle.

Check this...

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl441c.htm

The other similar problem I had was when my GC LE would run fine, run like crap... and then stop running at all... that turned out to be a crankshaft position sensor.

Just my ... Good Luck!

[jawss]

Hey man. I would say, check your cat. converter. If its plugged, your power will drop and even cause the motor to quit. Just unhook it before you go and buy a new one, and drive it. It will be loud but you should get an idea if its the problem. Or you could take it to a garage with the right diagnostic equipment, they can do an emmissions test to check the converter. As far as your guages quitting, I posted a thread earlier regarding them. I had to unhook my a/c and heater controls and they came back on. These are a problem in these vans. As soon as you unhook the two harnesses from the heater control unit, your guages may come back. IF... they do, it may solve your other problems too. Dodges are bad for electrical problems screwing up other things. Stupid computers! Good luck! Let me know how it goes.

[GTP Dad]

Before changing the Cat. try changing the fuel pressure regulator. You have changed just about everything else and since the car revs when not in gear it appears that the FPR is not allowing enough fuel when the vehicle is under load. If the cat were bad it wouldn't rev when not in gear.

[caravandrvr]

I would highly recommend checking the voltage to be sure there is not a problem with the alternator. Hook up a volt meter, start the car, turn on everything electrical and let it idle for 15-20minutes to see if the voltage drops over time. It's a free check (assuming you have a voltmeter or multi-tester available) and if this is the problem you could end up replacing a whole lot of parts and never fix it.

[TurboDuck]

Hi guys. I had a similar problem with an '93 Caravan / 3.3. After replacing Coil Pack, Cam sensor, etc. I finally replaced the plug wires. That cured it. I noticed you didn't mention that in your replaced parts list...

Good Luck, Gary.

[petwaitress]

I also have a 3.3 mines a 97 sport doing pretty much the same thing, Was just wondering if you were getting any muffled backfires when accelerating into overdrive also. Ok my bad you said popping. Did you ever really resolve the problem?

[caravandrvr]

Originally Posted by petwaitress

I also have a 3.3 mines a 97 sport doing pretty much the same thing, Was just wondering if you were getting any muffled backfires when accelerating into overdrive also. Ok my bad you said popping. Did you ever really resolve the problem?

One more time:

"I would highly recommend checking the voltage to be sure there is not a problem with the alternator. Hook up a volt meter, start the car, turn on everything electrical and let it idle for 15-20minutes to see if the voltage drops over time. It's a free check (assuming you have a voltmeter or multi-tester available) and if this is the problem you could end up replacing a whole lot of parts and never fix it."

Keep in mind these things are VERY voltage critical due to all the electronics. (dare I say over-engineered electronics?)

[DancingCrow]

Change the DOWNstream O2 sensor. (The one AFTER the catalytic convertor.) Had the same problem, spent over $900 before I found the answer.