New FAQ Thread!!

[carrrnuttt]

And also this isnt the for sale or looking to buy section, but if you must post one in here, atleast put as much info as possible including location, details, price and maybe why its for sale.

[Spectre927]

And also this isnt the for sale or looking to buy section, but if you must post one in here, atleast put as much info as possible including location, details, price and maybe why its for sale.

[Spectre927]

I read a post that made me think of this.

Q: What do you consider rice?

Thats been asked a lot, so just search. Its also hard to answer because everyone has a thousand different things that could constitute ricey, and not everyone will always agree.

[foxfai]

Seems like if you have a lot of $$ and soup up your car will not consider rice? And ppl that have tried so hard to earn "some" hard $$ for their car will consider rice? Engine parts do cost a lot guys.......

['97TeG-Ls]

thanks guys, this thread is really helpful for all the newbies.

I think that another thing that is important and should be touched on is engine heads. (gains, types, what is best, etc. etc)

[HondaIntegraXSI]

yes, I do, but the guy did not leave any names, or from at least what I saw... I get about 5 pm's a day asking for advice, but I know that is nothing compared to you guys receive a day.. Sorry bout it guys..

[KrNxRaCer00]

Originally Posted by HondaIntegraXSI

yes, I do, but the guy did not leave any names, or from at least what I saw... I get about 5 pm's a day asking for advice, but I know that is nothing compared to you guys receive a day.. Sorry bout it guys..

hey, don't be sorry bout it man...jus want the real author to get credit is all.

as for the pm's, then u get more than i do. i only get 5-6 a week IF that. but thats over, let the thread get back onto topic...

[KrNxRaCer00]

Originally Posted by chris26969

For specific info on any car. HP, Tq, MPG , Weight.

http://www.autotrader.com/research/m...l?restype=used

thas usually where i'll double check a car that im not as sure about as the teggy's stats...

[chris26969]

JDMDB7

You seem to be giving alot of bullshit to people and you are new here, dont make enemys now because you will never get any help from anyone.

[JDMDB7]

I don't give out bs. And I'm not trying to make enemies. I'm not asking for help, I'm trying to offer it. Sometimes that means correcting some misinformation.

[JDMDB7]

Here's the only dyno I could find of a "stock" LS VTEC.


This is a great site that I just found with tons of B-series dynos on it.
http://www.importreview.com/d_1.8.html

There are other LS VTECs on there that make more power, but they have upgraded pistons and cams. Keep in mind the same upgrades can be made to a GSR for better power. The dyno posted above is what you would get for $3000 if you built the motor correctly. You could do it cheaper or you could get upgraded cams/pistons for the same price, but then your reliability is going to suffer. I'd give that dyno an engine life of 50K. But pretty much any shortcuts for that setup will quickly drop you under 20K miles.

There will always be a huge debate about whether turbos or NA is more reliable. I see it this way, if you have an NA 12:1 engine you're going to see 10:1 dynamic compression on every single compression stroke that the engine makes. On a turbo motor your max dynamic compression may be around 11.5:1. But you will only have dynamic compression that high 50% of the time on a race day and 10-20% of the time for daily driving. I feel that the turbo motor is actually putting less stress on the components.

Before you say that I contradicted a previous post, for road racing I was referring to the NA reliability *during the race*. Turbos have more little things that can go wrong, but in general will put less wear on combustion chamber parts.

Coming from another performance angle, the LS doesn't have to be merely an LSVTEC or turbo platform. If your power goals are 170whp or less you can cam the engine much cheaper than an LSVTEC swap. A Crower 62403 swap can get you to 155whp pretty easily with just the basic bolt-on support. That's just as good as a basic (and reliable) LSVTEC setup for under half the cost!

[KrNxRaCer00]

ok, well...lets delve deeper into that website.

on the same site, it shows a gsr w/ i/h/e and cams putting down 173.

then if u scroll down, there is a lsvtec w/ only i/e and cams putting down 185. this sorta goes against "put the same money into the gsr, and u'll have more power..." it CAN be stronger, but it depends on each motor. as we both know, some motors are simply manufactured better (either ls/vtec or oem.) they are pretty even motors overall, unless u can show me a link on that site (since u brought it up) that shows me the gsr making a lot more power from the same mod's.

i understand not all ls/vtec's are going to be as strong as the one's on this page w/ only those mod's, but then look at the ls/vtec w/ the b18c1 head. its putting down over 200 hp w/ only a free'd up exhaust and cams. there are no gsr motors that come close to these numbers. yes, some of the numbers are closer than these, but...is there one n/a gsr motor stronger than the top ls/vtec motor on that board (usdm)?

even the greddy turbo @ 7.5 psi only puts down 205.5 w/ a down-pipe. that is hardly more than the basically STOCK ls/vtec w/ a b18c1 head.

as for the ls motor. so u buy an ls motor (around 1k...) simple bolt-ons are going to cost u upwards of $2000-2500 (to go from 120 up to 155.) i'm not seeing how it's half the cost here? even to get to the 140 to the wheels mark that the LOWEST ls/vtec is making stock...to gain that 20 hp, ur looking at over $1500 in mod's. how is that half?

i'll allow one more post from u to respond to wut i jus wrote, then we need to change the subject. feel free to list all the things that can go wrong w/ one, and the con's of it. BUT after that, PM me if u'd like to further debate this.

plz...others feel free to add other things (since we sorta took over the thread.)

[JDMDB7]

I don't really have time at the moment to spend an hour writing out an end-all be-all post on LSVTEC concepts, but I'll make just a few more points.

I would have been happier if that site had more straight VTEC head swaps without the upgrades. That would have given a little better idea about what just the head does. It's also of note that different VTEC heads (B16/B17/B18C1/B18C5) will all yield different compression ratios when mated to an LS block.

I didn't go back and review the dynos on that page, but there are two key things to note about those LS VTEC charts... Adding Pistons is a $1000 option. So throw out any graph with that upgrade. Second, An LS VTEC should not rev past 7000rpm unless it's been sleeved (another $1000 option) so you shouldn't look at power gained after that point...unless you want to submit that the engine will only last 10 or 15K miles. In which case, I'd throw it out anyway since it's not really practical for a street car.

If you do want to compare a $5000 LS VTEC to a GSR you would need to find one with a cam upgrade and a full Hytech exhaust system. That's what I would do with $2000 and a GSR. And the reliability would still stretch into 150K+. The Hytech system alone has been know to pull 30whp out of a near stock B18C. BTW, if you're in the market you should look into this system for your R. It's by far one of the best parts that you could ever bolt up to your car.

As for modding an LS... Assume both cars are prepped for head modification. I mean that they have intake, catback, and piggy backs already in place. Whichever direction you take, you'll need this stuff. From this point a basic LS VTEC conversion is $3000. That $3000 buys you, basically, the graph posted above. Or $1100-$1200 will get you the Crower 404's with springs installed and tuned for roughly 155whp. A moderator from anothe Honda board did this mod a few months ago and got 170whp with the same basic setup.

Let's also not forget that whp doesn't win races. I am confident that your car slightly modded would have no trouble with 85% of the moderately built LS VTECs out there. The Type-R has smooth power delivery with a good curve. These frankenstein motors aren't quite so flowing, and the powerbands can be peaky instead of broad. And even beyond that, poweband shape doesn't even give the whole story. The very nature of the construction of these engines throws off the well-balanced relationship of the various components. That can cause parasitic losses in transient response that don't show up on dyno horsepower ratings.

[whtteg]

And you drive what year integra?

[Integra_Believer]

I have a 94 Integra RS