Coolant system woes

[Jawsolife]

Greets,

I've had my '00 Intrigue GL for a year now.

Outta the blu, my temp gauge shows the engine is running hot (after 30 mins driving)... then spikes to the max. Engine is exhibiting popping noise, too. Doing the safe thing I pulled over to cool down (did I mention it was -4F this day?)

I opened the hood to verify the expansion tank is nominal... it was showing levels at "full hot." Next, I did the touch test on all visible coolant hoses... they are all warm at best.

EXCEPT... The lower hose going from a housing on the engine block (pass side) to bottom of radiator. This hose is not even warm (minutes after registering an overheat).

I am mildly baffled with the new set-up of the the expansion tank as an integral part of the cooling system. But, my history with older cars leads me to believe this is a thermostat thing.

Is this housing on the left of motor (cold hose) the thermostat housing?

Am I missing anything?

Any input is appreciated!
TIA

Jaws O.

"Day without light is like... night"

[hoyt24]

i have a 2000 intrigue too and it's doing the same exact thing. i bought it 6 months ago and i would hate to have to put it in the shop i owe enough on it now as it is. if you figure out what it is would you please email me at [email protected] and if i find out before you i'll let you know. thanks

[kmohr3]

My first plan of action would be to replace the thermostat, bleed the cooling system and go from there. It sounds like a thermostat kind of a thing. Make sure you bleed the cooling system properly or you may still have overheating problems. I know there is at least 1 bleed screw on this car, maybe 2, but my factory service manual doesn't say where they are. Water pump might be my second guess. Hopefully it's not a headgasket/engine problem.

Let us know what fixes it!

[hoyt24]

Originally Posted by hoyt24

i have a 2000 intrigue too and it's doing the same exact thing. i bought it 6 months ago and i would hate to have to put it in the shop i owe enough on it now as it is. if you figure out what it is would you please email me at [email protected] and if i find out before you i'll let you know. thanks

thanks for the info but it seems like it's something electrical because the egine isn't actually running hot there's plenty of water and no boiling or steaming you can even put your hand on the motor.but wish it was just a thermostat

[kmohr3]

I was going with jawsoflife's description of spiked temp guage and popping noise from engine. This tells me that the engine actually is overheating and the popping sound is coolant perking or boiling. The hoses are cold because the thermostat is stuck closed and there is little or no coolant flow.

Furthurmore, I would be paranoid as hell driving around with an aluminum engine that is overheating. It doesn't take much to start warping or cracking cylinder heads, etc. And the 3.5 liter Intrigue motor looks like it would be expensive to repair.

[Jawsolife]

Originally Posted by hoyt24

thanks for the info but it seems like it's something electrical because the egine isn't actually running hot there's plenty of water and no boiling or steaming you can even put your hand on the motor.but wish it was just a thermostat

I have not factored out the possibility of electrical... but I think mechanical takes precidence. Consider the following:

If the thermostat is faulty (stuck closed) this means no coolant can flow to or from the radiator. Thus, inadequate cooling of the engine block. The temp gauge sensor is mounted in the block probably on the head somewhere. So, it (the gauge) more than likely IS accurately reflecting the temperature of the coolant in the block.

Let us not forget the "unknown" of this scenario.

What is the low and high values of the temp. gauge scale??

For all we know, the max reading of the gauge is 212 degrees (total guess). This is the boiling point of plain water NOT under pressure. This is not very hot for an 8 cyl engine. But manufacturers "stoopid proof" things to help minimize damage. Consider that the coolant/water mix and the system is pressurized to aprox 10-15 PSI.... it may need to reach 300+ degrees before boiling and steam are witnessed.

"stoopid proof" calibration of the gauge to max out at 212 degrees (again, a guess) will hopefully keep the masses from doing serious motor damage.

Sure, electrical might be a simple sensor replacement... gotta find it first. And if it ends up being a short? Could take days to track it down. Dashboards are, in no way, easy to dis-assemble if it is the gauge itself.

Replacing thermostat carries more of a "known quanity" at this time: 2 bolts, three hose clamps, coolant and water.

First establishing that the cooling system is flowing as it should takes priority over eliminiating a potential of false reading.

Just my two cents.

Jaws O.

[kmohr3]

I agree!

[Jawsolife]

Originally Posted by kmohr3

I was going with jawsoflife's description of spiked temp guage and popping noise from engine. This tells me that the engine actually is overheating and the popping sound is coolant perking or boiling. The hoses are cold because the thermostat is stuck closed and there is little or no coolant flow.

Sorry, I must admit.... I actually read the directions (owners manual).

Can you forgive me??

The reading was interesting:

According to the owners manual... Oldsmobile designed it so the engine will not fire all of the cylinders in high engine temp situation. Theory being... to reduce the heat being generated.

I wonder if the popping is being caused by their design at work?

Hmmmm....

Jaws O.

[Viper99991]

Originally Posted by Jawsolife

Sorry, I must admit.... I actually read the directions (owners manual).

Can you forgive me??

The reading was interesting:

According to the owners manual... Oldsmobile designed it so the engine will not fire all of the cylinders in high engine temp situation. Theory being... to reduce the heat being generated.

I wonder if the popping is being caused by their design at work?

Hmmmm....

Jaws O.

well i have a 2001 3.5 and mine was doing the same as u described well i fooled around with it for about a month on and off again didnt drive it so i said well lets take it in for a oil change well come to find out my temp sessor was fried my engine was fine just the temp senseer well i think it didn tcost me more than 200 bucks cause i had the hoses replaced and thermosthat belts flushed everything that involed the coolant system just take it to the shop not a stealership though u pay out of your A$$ i got a quote just messing around and they said 500or more

[hoyt24]

yeah the popping or knocking definetly isn't water boiling.someone told me it was a heat sensor well i found the heat sensor but i'm going to find somebody with a snap on scanner then i'll know what the problem is i hope

[hoyt24]

can anyone tell me where i can get a repair manual for this car?i've called several part stores and none of them carries it

[kmohr3]

I have the factory manual (Helm) for my 2002, 2 books, $135

[hoyt24]

i need a repair manual for a 2000 intrigue for $19.95

[Viper99991]

Originally Posted by hoyt24

yeah the popping or knocking definetly isn't water boiling.someone told me it was a heat sensor well i found the heat sensor but i'm going to find somebody with a snap on scanner then i'll know what the problem is i hope

well id take it to an autozone or to napa they uasually check them for free

[Jawsolife]

And so it goes...

Purchased the dealer only part. It is an integrated thermostat and housing. It also includes the gasket, and one of the three hoses that attach to it, and the two clamps for said hose.

$47.00. Add $20 for the 2 gals of coolant from the auto parts store.

From the looks of it, the part swap itself should take no time... it is the draining of the coolant that will probably take longer to deal with. I also noticed that they convieniently mounted the alternator immdiately below the thermo housing.

Got a big 'ol snow storm barrelling down on us here in da northeast... so I am off the a heated garage to do the deed.

TTFN