150k service recommendations

[slickdonkey]

Hey folks, I was just in for my 150k service on my 1993 SL2. I always dread this because they come up with a list a mile long of things to fix. Anyway here are the results (dollar amounts are parts and labor). I'd appreciate any insight as to the relative importance of these items. I have some mechanical ability but not a whole lot -- if any of these are not more than moderately difficuly I'd be willing to take a stab at it.

1) Defective coil pack and old spark plug wires, $147.50. The tech seemed to think this was the most important item to take care of.
2) Replace torque access mount (inside coolant tank) and serpentine belt (worn and cracked), $176.10. I asked for a quote on replacing the water pump at the same time, which has never been done after 150k miles. The technician said they don't necessarily recommend it unless it's leaking, but I would hate for it to start leaking and have to remove the belt again.
3) Replace EGR valve ($148.40)
4) Replace EGR solenoid ($80.40)
5) Replace cannister purge valve ($86.40)
6) Power steering fluid flush ($120). They say they use cleansers and various equipment to do the flush -- maybe snake oil for all I know. Is this worthwhile or can I do it myself? It hasn't been more than $15k since my last flush; I was expecting to get more life out of it!

Thanks for your help!

[sierrap615]

1. plugs and wires are normally replaced every 30 or so. you deside on the coils, test them with a multimeter if you can. check DIS module for corroded/bad grounds.
2. i also wouldn't touch the water pump until its needed. the coolent system can be sensitive with age. the engine mount (near the coolent tank, not in it) isn't uncommon to go bad.
3 & 4, try cleaning them with carb and choke cleaner first
5. why?
6. if you had a power steering flush 15k ago, don't worry about it. my fluid is 11 years old, from the factory.

one thing i would recommend is replacing the ECT sensor if you haven't before. nothing here is really beyond the skills of a novice.

[slickdonkey]

Thank you for your insight!

2) I took a look on Saturnparts.net for the torque access mount; all I could come up with was the following:

mount, Saturn, Engine mount - 1.9L, DOHC 92-02 $51.86
mount, Saturn, Engine mount Strut - 1.9L, DOHC 92-02 $83.50

Is this the part? What's the difference between these two?

3 and 4) I'll give it a shot. What do I do, just soak the valves with the stuff? How do I know if it worked?

5) Regarding the cannister purge valve, I'm not sure what they're smoking. I'll quiz the technician. My understanding was that this was related to environmental and/or fuel efficiency.

Thanks again!

[sierrap615]

the first one is the weight bearing mount, on top of the front(passanger side) of the engine. the strut keeps the engine from tilting, far underneth the top mount. i don't know which he thinks is bad, but i would guess the top mount, its a little more common. both are in this photo - http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2

for the EGR, once you see it you will know what you need to do. make it shiney like new, make sure everything moves freely.

[slickdonkey]

Thanks again!

Regarding the ECT sensor, I know it was replaced about a year and a half ago, but not by Saturn. I don't know what part the guy used. From what I've read it's usually advantageous to install the OEM part. Considering it's so cheap maybe I'll do it regardless.

[sierrap615]

since it has been replaced, i would put that on the back burner for now.

[slickdonkey]

Originally Posted by sierrap615

the first one is the weight bearing mount, on top of the front(passanger side) of the engine. the strut keeps the engine from tilting, far underneth the top mount. i don't know which he thinks is bad, but i would guess the top mount, its a little more common. both are in this photo - http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the top mount. The tech said it was next to the coolant tank and was planning to replace it while the serpentine belt is off. Does it have to be removed anyway to get the belt off?

Also you mentioned it isn't uncommon for the mount to go bad -- what seems to usually be the problem with these? I.e., what's bad about it?

[sierrap615]

its not needed to remove the mount for the belt, but it would give you some more room to work with. that is if you remove it from the top, in the few times i've needed to take my belt off on my 94, i've alway gone thru the wheel well. those times i already had the wheel off, but on my car the belt is also tight around the crank pulley, i don't even know if it would be possable to remove it from the top.

i don't know why this is common, maybe its just age, most that i know failed no earlyier then 100K miles, it is just rubber...