Q: About primer, polishing etc.

[Laaars]

Hi!

I have read through the FAQ and got many good tips there.
I have only 2 questions now...

Do I have to use a special primer? I have a can of Quick primer, will this do the trick?
And, to the polishing... instead of using the compound and wax (which is impossible to get here in Norway), can i use ordinary Car Wax? And, do I have to sand down the paint with 1200 grit before polishing?

I'm sorry if this have been answered before, but the FAQ gave me so many different answers, so I am a bit confusing about these things.

[SupaMan89T]

i dunno about 1200 grit i use 2000 and wet sand it ive never polished before but my paint is still good.

[Bas Carwash]

Yes it has been answered before I think. I don't know about the primer, but the polishing, you should NOT sand the paint down with 1200 grit sandpaper. It'll give you scratches all over the place. You can start with 1200 and work up to 12000 if you would like to. And polishing isn't done with Car Wax. Polishing is done with 'compound' or 'rubbing compound' . You should definitaly try to get some of that stuff. It's the best way to get your model at a high shine. Good luck.

[Amazon]

As a Scandinavian i think i can help you ; the brand Sonax is probably available i Norway,hm? Use their "Polish" not the "Rubbing". The polish is finer and doesn`t take away much paint. I used it on Tamiya spray ( hardened for about 4-5 days) after polishing it with the usuall polishing cloths, and the shine is good,to say the least!

[sjelic]

that is true any automotiv products for polishing (not wax) will do the trick. You can sand it with regular 2000 or 2500 grit paper to get it smoth but dull and then polish it with automotive products, best resoult will be with some schratc remover (available from Sonax, Arexons etc.) For primeing the best thing is Tamiya primer but any automotive orimer will do the trick, just be carefull abot the amount of primer you apply (very thin coats), and you will probably have to sand that primed surfice before you put the paint on.

[Laaars]

Thanks for the answers.
I will check it out.

But another question:
When I am going to use a clear coat over the body and decals, will i have to sand down and polish the body before I apply the clear coat? Or do I sand down the clear coat and polish it?

Thanks

[proosen]

Don't sand the decals, they'll get ruined! Take care of any blemish in the paint and then go for the clear coat. Take care with the clear so you don't ruin the decals, Tamiya TS-13 will dissolve the decals if put on to thick in the first go. Many careful mist coats if you use that one and more heavy coats when you're sure the clear has covered the body work. I use Modelmasters Metalizer sealer with good results and I have yet to see it attack any decals.

Good luck!
Niclas

[Laaars]

Thank you!
But I read somewhere that many prefered to apply the decals after the clear coat, espescially on Motorsports cars. That may be a good idea?
I'm building a 2003 Calsonic GT-R.

I have build alot before, but I haven't used any of your advanced methods with polishing and so on, so I'm a bit newbie. hehe

[sjelic]

The thing is you have to chose, there is no permanent solution. If you like how your paint job came out (and if it is not metalic) then you won't even need clear coat. If the decals are nice with no edge and they have went nicely on paint job (and if you don't want to seal the decals) don't use clear coat. Don't polish/sand metalic without clear coat on it as Niclas said don't sand affter decals (no metter if clear coat is on or not). If you use automotive colours sand and polish before clear coat, then clear coat then decals and then (if you want to seal the decals) clear. Clear coat is not obligatory on regular colours.

[proosen]

On most racing cars the decals is exactly that, decals. For a prototypic correct build there should not be any clear on top of them, one more thing on the racing decals is that they are seldom very shiny more of a semi-gloss to gloss apperance. I've had no problems sanding/polishing the clear coat even on top of decals, take care not to go through the clear coat though. Light sanding, more clear, sand again, clear coat and so on...... until you're satisfied with the look and result of your work. The Calibra below is coated with MM Metalizer sealer and sanded polished, not correct but as long as I'm satisfied it's ok

Niclas