1987 Dodge Daytona Ignition Help

[Psychopete]

Hey,
Bare with me, I've only worked on Ford 60 degree V6s. I probably shouldn't even be messing with this thing, it has 230,000 miles, and is crumbing from rusting out so badly. It has a 2.5L mitsubishi. I've always had terrible luck with these engines.

It's my girlfriends car, and she stopped at the auto store and when she got back out it wouldn't start back up. No spark. We messed with it, put in a new coil, and hall effect sensor, and no go. We unhooked what appeared to be a condensor (really rusty) from ground, and now it runs, but sometimes won't start back up.

On my Ranger I can scan my computer fault codes with an analog volt meter. Could the same be done on this car? I don't wanna put any money I don't need to in this piece. I am not hating on Dodge, but this car is literally a piece a crap.

Any thoughts on the condensor, or what the problem could be? The intank fuel pump was changed about 6 months ago. New plugs, and wires have been installed. I have a friend that tells me it might be moisture in the distributer, but are these cars know to have issues with that?

Once the car is running, is doesn't wanna stay running. The rpms will jump from dead to 2,500 for about 5 minutes then will eventually run. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Pete

[Vetteman84]

I'm sure you have checked it, but first thing that comes to my mind is the altenator. just a thought.

[msmart86_2000]

hey dude!! have you checked out the timing belt? mine jumped like crazy, as far as tach goes, and then it finally blew. also, you can check the codes by placing the key in the ignition then turning it to the on and off position 3x....on...off...on...off..on...off then back on to read them. the check engine light will flash as for the first number, then a small break, then the next number, however, I can't remember where a site is that tells what each number refers to. Sorry. Also, these aren't Mitsu. engines. They are full blooded Mopar. As far as I know, there shouldn't be a moisture prob. You also might wanna check the plug wires where the go into the distributor cap. if they're bad on one side, just turn'em around. Hope this stuff helps some!!

Matt

[Psychopete]

Originally Posted by msmart86_2000

hey dude!! have you checked out the timing belt? mine jumped like crazy, as far as tach goes, and then it finally blew. also, you can check the codes by placing the key in the ignition then turning it to the on and off position 3x....on...off...on...off..on...off then back on to read them. the check engine light will flash as for the first number, then a small break, then the next number, however, I can't remember where a site is that tells what each number refers to. Sorry. Also, these aren't Mitsu. engines. They are full blooded Mopar. As far as I know, there shouldn't be a moisture prob. You also might wanna check the plug wires where the go into the distributor cap. if they're bad on one side, just turn'em around. Hope this stuff helps some!!

Matt

Thanks for the responses. The alternator could be the problem. She left her lights on and the battery hasn't holding a very good charge since, even after being on deep cycle over night.

Will look into the timing belt. Scanning the codes will also be a big help if a sensor is going bad. The list shouldn't be too hard to find. I thought the engine was a full blooded Mopar because of the Crystler emblem casted right on the engine. Everyone I asked told me it was a Mitsubishi. The wires are new, but I didn't install them. I'll check into all of this.

Thanks,
Pete

[4dr92cavi4cyl]

Those wires suck, I hate the way they made the distributor on these. My wifes 91 2.5 had burned the points pretty bad, got a new rotor, plugs and wires and she runs fine now. I thought I heard that if you flip those points it will f*ck it up?

[PWMAN]

No you can flip them around no problem, same on both sides. Moisture can cause a problem, but only for about 15 minutes. I can spray down my engine bay at the car wash, the car will still start but run liek crap for about 10-15 minutes. Well one time it didn't start but an easy fix to that is to take the cap off and spray the electrodes down with WD-40.

Yes these are chrysler engines no mitsubishi about them. The person you talked to probably thought you were talking about 2.6L engine from a Starion or conquest.

Yes do check the codes. Here's a site that tells you the codes-
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html