93 Ford Escort St. Wagon Won't turn over

[kirfer]

I have a 1993 Ford Escort Station Wagon LX that I drove today and then turned it off. I went out to start it again and it wouldn't turn over. The radio works, the heater fan works and the gauges and lights work. It just won't turn over and it was running fine before with no problems except the headlight high beams work once in a while. What is wrong? Kirfer

[Davescort97]

Turn on you lights. Are they dim? If so get a jump from another car. Are connections at the battery clean and tight? Manual-clutch switch not completely depressed. Automatic- not in park or neutral. Does it make a clicking sound? If it starts with a jump you more than llikely have a discharged battery. If it doesn't start with a jump your starter is in need of replacement.

[kirfer]

I have a manual transmission and I had the clutch pushed in all the way. The only thing it does is when you turn the key all the way on it makes one very light click. The tow truck tried to give me a jump and nothing except one very low click. My husband cleaned the terminals and put a battery charger on the battery and still nothing.

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by kirfer

I have a manual transmission and I had the clutch pushed in all the way. The only thing it does is when you turn the key all the way on it makes one very light click. The tow truck tried to give me a jump and nothing except one very low click. My husband cleaned the terminals and put a battery charger on the battery and still nothing.

sometimes the battery can develop a short and cause your problem. even if the battery is not to old this can happen usually in the cold weather. Take the battery or your car to autozone have them test it (they will for free) also be sure the connections to the battery and starter/solenoid is good. then if that dont work check the alternator

[kirfer]

We tow started it and it runs good. Then we turn it off and it won't start.

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by kirfer

We tow started it and it runs good. Then we turn it off and it won't start.

most likely the battery has issues take it out and have it load tested.

[rmotl]

We have a 1995 wagon LX that doesn't start after being run for more than a few minutes (just the single "click" like you mentioned). We've had a tune-up, replaced the starter and replaced the neutral safety switch. The car was awesome for 2½ days. Now we're back to the drawing board.

When it's acting up, most of the time we simply open the hood while trying to start it and it fires right up. It has to be electrical but no one knows what! (It seems to act up more when raining or damp out.)

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by rmotl

We have a 1995 wagon LX that doesn't start after being run for more than a few minutes (just the single "click" like you mentioned). We've had a tune-up, replaced the starter and replaced the neutral safety switch. The car was awesome for 2½ days. Now we're back to the drawing board.

When it's acting up, most of the time we simply open the hood while trying to start it and it fires right up. It has to be electrical but no one knows what! (It seems to act up more when raining or damp out.)

have you also tried checking the battery and its connections? (bring it to autozone they will test it in the car and the cars charging system free) also check the wire going to ground and the positive wire going to the starter. When it is in the no start mode check and see if you are getting spark. let me know how ya make out

[rmotl]

Thanks for the quick reply! Wow!

I get no spark... won't even turn over, just the infamous 'click'.
FYI: This is an automatic 1.9L with 110K miles

I neglected to say that the battery was the first thing we tried (2 months new) and the positive (+) cable was replaced when the 'new' starter (not rebuilt) was installed. (The old starter was running too hot.)

SO FAR WE'VE DONE...

- 30/60/90 Service
- New Battery
- New Starter & (+) Cable
- New Neutral Safety Switch (OEM Mopar)

(upwards of $850 total... so far!)

Do you know if there are any other components between the neutral safety switch and the starter in a '95 Escort LX? What else is there to replace?!

Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll take it to AutoZone to make sure the battery doesn't have a bad cell and the ground is OK since the (+) is all new. Any thoughts on the hood being opened that might cause it to finally start? Could there be a short in some wiring? My mechanic that did all the above mentioned work said everything checked out ok, they even checked the steering column, wires and tumbler... all good! We're all scratching our heads.

If I do come across the solution (HOPEFULY), I will pass it on for others! This is one frustrating problem!

FORD... Found On Road Dead!

[chevyn0va1]

Free Testing

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free.

Don't buy a part you don't need. AutoZone will test your car's parts for free. We can test your car's battery, alternator, starter and voltage regulator while they're still on your car. We can also give your car a complete starting and charging systems test.

You can also take your alternator, starter or battery into our store and we'll test it. In most stores, we can also test voltage regulators, control modules, coils, throttle position sensors (TPSs) and other engine management components.

Sounds like you are going in the right direction however i missundertood. sounds like your getting a click and it is not turning over? if it is a click then check the solinod to the starter and the connection. if it is cranking and not starting thats a whole different area.

[rmotl]

Originally Posted by chevyn0va1

Free Testing

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free...

Yup, just a 'click' and it won't turn over at all. (More often when it's raining or damp out.)

Well, I took it to AutoZone and they ran the test you suggested. The battery is fine (new), the starter is fine (new) but the alternator has a "bad diode". I know what a diode is and what it does, but it doesn't sound like the solution to my problem! The diode lets the alternator "charge" the battery when running but doesn't allow it to "drain" the battery when not running. The diode is like a 'one way switch'... if the diode is bad, it'll drain the battery over time so it'll never start. Mine WILL start after opening the hood!

Since I got a new starter, wouldn't it have a new solinoid too?

He said the bad diode IS a "problem", but doesn't think it would cause the "click" with no turn over. Especially when I told him that I simply... "Open the hood and close it, and it'll start right up." The only answer he had was to replace the alternator and see if that fixes it. GEESH!!!! This is getting expensive!

HASN'T ANYONE EVER COME ACROSS THIS PROBLEM BEFORE AND FIXED IT?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP!!!!!!!!

Is there anything that connects the transmission to the neutral safety switch that may be faulty? I've read about some "wire harnesses" that connect there that may be corroded? Is this true?

Thanks for all your help and guidance on this.

[chevyn0va1]

Thanks for all your help and guidance on this.[/quote]

well thought you said it was a rebuilt starter. Id check the connection there at the solinod. but as far as that diode goes i'd imagine it would stop the current flow in the system. Are you sure you can recreate the problem and moving the hood solves the problem or was it coinsidence? I still think its a connection/ground issue in the charging system. but i dont know it all-lol

[A. Souphound]

Rmodl,
From your narrative it sounds like you have a bad starter solonoid (relay) located on L/H inner fender. The (+) battery is attached to it, or it is not grounded properly. The 'click' you hear indicates the ignition switch circuit to the solonoid is good. This relay merely hooks the battery to the starter when activated by the ignition switch (small pull-off connector on the solonoid).
Make sure the (-) battery cable has a good ground to the chassis, and check the ground from the chassis to the cylinder head.
Sometimes the solonoid will stick, tap it a couple of times and then try to restart the car. If none of these things work.....replace the starter solonoid.
Alvin.

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by A. Souphound

Rmodl,
From your narrative it sounds like you have a bad starter solonoid (relay) located on L/H inner fender. The (+) battery is attached to it, or it is not grounded properly. The 'click' you hear indicates the ignition switch circuit to the solonoid is good. This relay merely hooks the battery to the starter when activated by the ignition switch (small pull-off connector on the solonoid).
Make sure the (-) battery cable has a good ground to the chassis, and check the ground from the chassis to the cylinder head.
Sometimes the solonoid will stick, tap it a couple of times and then try to restart the car. If none of these things work.....replace the starter solonoid.
Alvin.

I agree with you i was thinking with a chevy mentality-lol

[Jet-Lee]

If ur diode is bad, that means it's letting the battery drain through the alternator, am I not correct? If you don't have enough to turn the crank right off, you get a click and it quits tryin. If your draining through your alternator, that's a draw on your battery that could be used to start the car. You're probably getting a start when you catch the diode in a good mood and lets you keep that valuable amperage. Change your alternator!