My first spark plug replacement

[97blazermadness]

97 Blazer
4.3
4x4
147K miles

I bought this Truck used - had 35K miles on it. I haven't had the spark plugs/wires/rotor replaced yet.

Should I be concerned that the plugs may be stuck in the block? This is my biggest worry.

Can you spray anything in there that would help loosen them up?

Any other gotchas? (besides #3 plug)


Thanks !

[BlazerLT]

Nope, straight forward.

Use antoseize when installing the new ones and for the love of christ do NOT use bosch plats.

Only use the AC Delco Platinum.

[wolfox]

Might want to invest in magnetic plug socket, and a 6" long, 20 degree "wobble" extension. It will prove to be invaluable when working around the shaft of your steering column to reach that #3 plug. You may have better luck jacking up the driver's side of the truck and dropping the wheel off. Allows nearly dead-center access to all of the plugs on that side. Wear gloves and longsleeves too... I look like I wrestled a stray cat when I finished my plug job on my '95.

Hopefully, you will have better luck!

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by wolfox

Wear gloves and longsleeves too... I look like I wrestled a stray cat when I finished my plug job on my '95.

Me too! LOL!

Make sure you have lots of extensions and elbows to get into the 3rd one.

Also, other than the two front cylinders, do the rest of them through the wheel wells.

Soooo much easier.

[sock_s]

Originally Posted by 97blazermadness

97 Blazer
4.3
4x4
147K miles
I bought this Truck used - had 35K miles on it. I haven't had the spark plugs/wires/rotor replaced yet.
Should I be concerned that the plugs may be stuck in the block? This is my biggest worry.
Can you spray anything in there that would help loosen them up?
Any other gotchas? (besides #3 plug)

Thanks !

Being a newbie to the whole process, the advice so far posted is exactly what you should do (as they previously guided me through the process just recently). The only advice I would add is to take off the drivers side engine mount, supporting the engine with a wood block (under oil pan) and jack engine slowly up until you can get to the spark plug behind the steering wheel column. No matter what extensions I had, I could not get it out (because I tried that method) without jacking it up. It takes a few more minutes to do, but it is was worth not having a broken off #3 spark plug.

As far as the spark plugs seizing, I barely changed the factory plugs at 96k miles and they came out without any fuss.

[wolfox]

Originally Posted by sock_s

As far as the spark plugs seizing, I barely changed the factory plugs at 96k miles and they came out without any fuss.

The factory plugs are usually coated with an anti-sieze compound. If you are not replacing your spark plugs every 30K miles, (Which is pointless if you put AC-Delco platinums back in it) it is best to use a small dab of anti-sieze. Remember back to when it was easy getting those factory plugs out, and you now know why.

A mechanic buddy of mine has been running on Bosch "Super" plugs in his Blazer. They are not platinums, just a plain old OE style plug. For the heat range needed for our engines, the Supers are a full 1/4 inch shorter than the GMAC-Delco replacement. He says sneaking the plugs into place using his fingers alone and the "super" plugs made his job 10X easier. The exta 1/4" of room makes it easier to slip your socket over them to give them the final tightening. However, they have to be gapped/replaced 3x as often. (Only go about 3 years/30-35K miles and they are spent) An alternative to think of if you enjoy working on your truck. No need to go through contortions or removing the engine mounts in this case. That may be beyond the scope of our newbie friends' toolbox to tackle.

[97blazermadness]

Thanks guys! I have the new AC Delco Platinums ready to go. My first attempt will be with extensions and patience.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by sock_s

Being a newbie to the whole process, the advice so far posted is exactly what you should do (as they previously guided me through the process just recently). The only advice I would add is to take off the drivers side engine mount, supporting the engine with a wood block (under oil pan) and jack engine slowly up until you can get to the spark plug behind the steering wheel column. No matter what extensions I had, I could not get it out (because I tried that method) without jacking it up. It takes a few more minutes to do, but it is was worth not having a broken off #3 spark plug.

As far as the spark plugs seizing, I barely changed the factory plugs at 96k miles and they came out without any fuss.

I'm sorry, but removing an engine mount and kacking up the engine for one plug?

Little ridiculaous don't you think.

Two extensions and an elbow and it is licked.

[bhesson]

Just curious but why is it suggested not to use Bosch Platinums?

[blazee]

They foul easily, cause misfires, and rough idle.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by bhesson

Just curious but why is it suggested not to use Bosch Platinums?

And they have been known to be a problem in the 4.3L's.

They foul very quickly.

[97blazermadness]

I finally got to this job over the weekend. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Was a pretty straight-forward job. My buddy handled the driver's side #3 plug with a "5/8 swivel socket" and extensions. It's long enough for a plug, but shorter than a standard deep-well socket. That socket made a big difference and lessened the amount of cursing in the room.

There is one thing we ran into: The AC-Delco plugs come pre-gapped to 0.060".

My owners manual, Chilton book, and GM service info states the gap for a 4.3L VIN W to be 0.045".

I gapped mine to 0.045".

Anyone else run into this? So far the truck starts and runs like new.

[wolfox]

Originally Posted by 97blazermadness

My owners manual, Chilton book, and GM service info states the gap for a 4.3L VIN W to be 0.045".

I gapped mine to 0.045".

That is quite fine and correct. If you *must* regap a platinum plug, use the "wedge" type gapping tool that looks like a slowly, graduated wedge going around the edge, with the gap increments increasing as the wedge gets fatter. Using a wire type gapping tool that has loops of wire bent into "D" shapes on the outside can be detrimental on platinum plugs.

Gently use the tooth on the tool to bend the electrode just enough to get the measurement done with the lightest of contact from the wedge. Forcing a wire loop between the electrodes with your typical gapping tool will break the platinum button(s) off of the plug.

Great to hear the beast is still running strong. Take care of her, and she'll take care of you!

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by 97blazermadness

I finally got to this job over the weekend. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Was a pretty straight-forward job. My buddy handled the driver's side #3 plug with a "5/8 swivel socket" and extensions. It's long enough for a plug, but shorter than a standard deep-well socket. That socket made a big difference and lessened the amount of cursing in the room.

There is one thing we ran into: The AC-Delco plugs come pre-gapped to 0.060".

My owners manual, Chilton book, and GM service info states the gap for a 4.3L VIN W to be 0.045".

I gapped mine to 0.045".

Anyone else run into this? So far the truck starts and runs like new.

Sorry bro, you have to remove and regap them.

They some pregapped to 0.060 which is the EXACT setting for your truck.

Your gap now is too small and it will affect your performance and fuel economy.

[97blazermadness]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Sorry bro, you have to remove and regap them.

They some pregapped to 0.060 which is the EXACT setting for your truck.

Your gap now is too small and it will affect your performance and fuel economy.

BLT, thanks for your feedback. Are there any other concerns about the gap being too small? I won't be able to reseat the plugs for a couple of weeks and I want to make sure no engine damage will occur.